What is the remedy if my hi ace is still overheating ! My piston ring is 0.75 then my liner and piston is 0.50?

What are you working on? A little more information would go a long way. I'm totally guessing that this is a heavy-duty diesel truck engine since automotive engines don't have removable liners. If all you needed is a head gasket , I wouldn't have pushed the pistons out. As long as that seal between the liners and the block isn't disturbed there's no reason to pull them out. But if you already have gone to the trouble of getting the pistons out, you're half way to an in frame. For me, it has more to do with how many miles ore on it? If you have alot of miles on this rig and you already have it torn down...makes sense to do it all and be done with it. If the miles are low and it was just a leaky gasket...No you don't HAVE to.

Did you line up the timing marks before taking of the head and made sure that they were the same when reassembled
Water in the exhaust take out spark plugs and fill up cooling system and crank engine to see if water shoots out the holes if so
Liners need to be checked for cracks or you have a twisted head which may need skimming or replacement
Most overheated motors need a major strip and rebuild as we need to be very lucky to get away with a gasket replacement only and not rip all the bearings in the motor to pieces and piston rings

Depends on how bad it was overheated and weather or not it was overheated because of low coolant level or air or coolant circulation Can be as bad as a cracked cylinder head or engine block, Seized and weakened cylinder rings causing low compression or oil burning, Can also cause scored pistons and liners, or even seize the engine right up so it no longer rotates

you did't state what engine it is. Some diesels have wet liners and others have dry liners. in both cases if the block was cracked you would have a water in the oil problem. I have come across this problem before and it basically comes down to mechanical experience. Rings will only go on pistons one way to work properly. If they are put on upside down they act as oil pumps and collect the oil from the bores and burn it in the chamber. Will empty a 5 gallon sump in 100 miles.
Next some mechanics prefer to save money and so do not replace the liners ( pistons ,rings and liners come as a kit) but rather hone out the bores. Two problems with that idea
the bores do not handle a hone well and so loose the hone marks quickly ( glazed bore = oil usage)
the angle of the hone marks is critical as they are there to trap oil for lubrication and turn the rings to prevent undue wear in the ring grooves. If the oil pistons were used with out new rings that are set to the right gap then the rebuild was a waste of time and money. Diesels are critical on measurements because of the high compressions that they run at and if the gap is at worn out gap the compression fire comes down past the rings and ignites the combustibles in the sump oil. The oil turns black very quickly , disappears or will not drain out when cold ( tar like substance)

the pistons can be installed from the bottom of the cylinder where there should be a chamfer ( use a ring compressor here makes the job easier--on the bench)
once you have the piston in the cylinder then install the assembly into the block taking care to ensure that the piston is at the top of the cylinder so that the big end doesn't damage the crank journal as you slide the cylinder down into the block I take it that the engine is a diesel ( wet sleeves) so check the liner to block face height before fitting because if the cylinder lip is too low , it will blow head gaskets
make sure that the piston is orientated correctly , the same as the others

is it a diesel if so your either getting to much fuel into the pistons in which case it needs a tune up for the air and fuel mixture or its getting oil into the pistons from a leaking valve oil seal or the oil piston rings are gone with this though the smoke will be a blue ish colour hope this helps ivan thats if its a diesel but very similar for petrols as well

since the engine is overheated and died whilst in motion,surely you have either blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head and pistons marked the liners, In other words the engine might need recondition.

hi, it could be down to damaged piston rings, cracked block, cracked liners, but it could also be something simple like blown head gasket if i were you i would get second oppinion as engine replacement is last resort.

Hi,
Good news is - I don't think you need a new engine.

As there are many moving parts that could create a knocking sound, it usually needs careful inspection to identify where it is from.
I will give a list of some of the causes and remedies. Yours will probably be one of them, but unless I was there - it could be any.

Loose exhaust component (causes rattles and thumps) - replace parts or joints.
Loose Engine mounts - Engine will move about a lot more than normal - Replacement of mounts.
Fraying Belts - causes continual ticking or slapping - Replace belts and check tension.
Timing is off - bad running, lack of power, pre ignition or knocking at low revs. Check timing belt - Replace, Tune engine.
Cracked valve - slight misfire worse at low revs - Replacement valves.
Clutch Problems - Broken spring or loose bolt - Check clutch plate - replace clutch plates.
Older engines - often accompanying smoke -
Broken Piston ring - continual ticking or occasional misfire - Replace Piston rings
Worn Piston bearings - Piston Slap - Replacement of all piston bearings.

Transmission Problems (only heard when in gear or with clutch out) - Broken gear teeth or worn bearings - Replacement of Transmission or rebuild.

Some of these remedies require engine removal and strip down, others are a simpler fix.

How much mechanical ability do you have? Replacing the head gasket on a 5 is not an easy job, and if you have water in the oil, you prob have compromised the main & rod bearings. Water & oil on the bearings makes them wear out rapidly. Plus, if you take the head off (don't pull it UP, leave a corner bolt in loose and PIVOT the head on the dowell pin, that way you will not pull up the liners), if you don't, you will unseat the piston liner seals, then you have a whole new problem to deal with. If you really want to do this, you need to remove the cyl head, and then take it to a machine shop to check the straightness of the head mating surface, and possibly the block. Then hope that the liner seals are not compromised when you put it all back together...
Overheating Renault engines is unfortunatly quite expensive.
Sorry, I do not have the torques specs.