Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette
Huge problem, my 99 olds silhoutte van stalls when I apply on the breaks, it also shakes, the rpm goes up to 1-2 rpm. It will also cuts off when I apply on the breaks while im driving & that was a very scarey situation! It does turn back on after it stops running. I took it to my mechanic and he assumes the problem is the (iddle air control) and another mechanic said it was the (break buster). I can't afford to change parts and it not be the source of the problem. One of the nice mechanic did help me some, he manage to help me with a "meantime fix," he set the RPM high so that the engine won't stall, and the "meantime fix," does work but now my engine lights turn on. I took the van to auto advance and they did a quick cp check and they told me that my Iddling was to high & I needed a tune up. Now, I'm still afraid to drive it because when I apply on the breaks I hear a WOOSH airy sound spongy feeling and it kinda feels like it's not going to stop but then at times the breaks feels a little hard to make it stop and shakes when I make complete stop at times, and then at times it takes awhile to stop when you apply on the breaks and then sometimes stops fine. When I back up from my parking lot it REALLY acts up bad; it shakes, my dash lights flashes and my breaks gets really hard. I have 5 month old husband getting ready to be out of work Dec 18. He graduates and his lay off payments will quick coming and no one is hiring until the new year and my small town has no jobs. The van we really relay on as our main traveler. We need to get to the point on the problem. We have no money to keep changes pieces that mechanic, "ASSUMES." on the repairs needed. Please let me know any suggestions on what to do and what you might think that the problem is? I will appreciate it.. It will be such a blessing for us to get to the point of it. I'm stuck at home, please help! :o( We are still driving old car and it doesnt have much spark in it, lol. But I thank the man above it's still running.............. Just need this one to GOOOOO! :o( without leaving us broke without a solution.?!
100 to 125 for a tuneup by a mechanic isn't a bad price from what I know.
And just so you know (after the fact), NOW, I'm 100% sure it was the brake booster...*laughing*. I'm so very glad that your car is running better and I hope that my advice helped in some small way.
Thank you for the update.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
YEAAAAAAAAAAH!! Car is fixed!!! It was the break booster. I got a brake booster used under 40,000 miles for $35. Then I prayed and the Lord sent me some mechanics my way! They needed some extra $ and they can in Saturday to work on my van. They did replace the break booster. Now, when I step on the breaks no vacuum nose and it stops well. The ONLY thing I have noticed , and maybe its just me because I have been use to the Van stopping slow. I notice that it breaks a little hard, but stops fine I just have to apply a little more effort to push with my foot on the breaks. HMMM, I wonder if it just me or im weak? LOL.. Maybe the breaks is normal to push a little harder. BEFORE It took me longer to push in the breaks to stop maybe thats wHY???? The mechanics did say I needed a tune-up because their is misfire causing the engine light. The price for they gave me to do the tuneup is $100-$125 with plugs, wires, air filter, filter, cleaning something cant remeber all that for that price. Is that a fair amount? I think I might have found me SOME great mechanics they charged me $100 to put in the break booster!! It They told me they know it cost way more. Which is true every mechanic wanted to charge me $260-300 labor to put in the break booster. I'm telling you the blessing came from above. I told the mechanic thats all I can pay which so true, since my husband gets laid off DEC 18! I'm so thankful... Any comments??? I thought I would never get it running again.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
You should be able to buy a brake booster for this car at any auto parts store. I have changed out a brake booster in about 30 minutes but remember, at any repair shop they use a standard labor rate guide (a book that tells them how long the average persons takes to do the job and they charge labor from that guide rather than how long it actually takes them to do the job). I have no idea how much would be resonable price for this job. (I'm a computer tech in my day to day job) The van would be safe to drive but as I said above it would still be very hard to stop...(I.E. it would take greater pressure on the brake peddle to do the same amound of stopping as when the booster worked correctly.) The brakes won't give out from the booster not working. Most auto repair shops buy their own parts and won't except parts that are brought in by the owner of the car. Remember, they want to be able to warranty their work and because of that they usually get their own parts and do the repair. Any repair you have done, make sure you get the old parts back and I'm sad to say, get your husband to talk to any repair shop if you can (I understand that college thing, I just graduated three years ago myself). Some shady repair shops will prey on a woman when she brings her car in to be repaired.
Much Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
Sounds like your power brake booster is bad internally. That booster works off of engine vacuum and when you have a vacuum leak your car will run very badly. The booster uses engine vacuum to help push your brakes and when your booster doesn't work your brakes will be almost very hard to push. The car will stop but everything just feels like something isn't right. There is a tube going to your brake booster from the engine. One way to check for a bad brake booster is to remove that tube from the brake booster, pinch or seal off the end of that tube with something other than your hand. Start the car. The car should idle WAY too high at this point because of the "meantime fix". If you were to drive the car with that tube clamped off it would run better but your brakes would still be hard to push. The woosh you hear when you press the brakes is a sign of a broken diaphram inside the brake booster and when you hear that the engine is loosing vacuum and will run very badly at that point as noted by your stalls when you apply the brakes. I understand the no money part of your problem. If it were me, I would put the tube back on the brake booster and then I would take a small set of locking pliers and lock the clamp of the pliers across that tube and that will stop the brake booster from loosing vacuum but would still allow you to drive without stalling but be aware the brakes will still be VERY hard to push. As I said before. they will work but you will have to apply more pressure to the peddle because there will be no power assist function going to your brakes.
Please be aware, try this temp fix at your own risk. The true fix for your problem is to replace the brake booster.
Much good luck!
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
Brake booster.. without a doubt... It creates a vaccuum problem which is why your brakes feel different... the idle should have NEVER been set UP like it was...
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
SOURCE: over iddles in park
For the high rpm part, have you looked to see if there is a vacuum leakage or possibly a fault in the Idle Air Control motor.
With overheating since jeeps are single belt driven it could be possible the fan is starting up when driving slow or parked because the belt is moving right. Or look for leaks in the coolant maybe it's not getting enough coolant.
fluid in the glove box though, can you be more specific with that one.
Posted on May 22, 2009
Check the IACV, its located at the throttle body, facing the firewall. They get junked up with carbon. Just clean it up with carb cleaner and bleed out the air from the coolant.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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