Question about 2003 Acura 3.2CL

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The dealership service dept. told me I needed new brake rotors+.

2003 Acura TL typeS w/ 97k mi. - Six months ago, while dealing with another issue I was told I needed new wheels (one was bent), a lower ball joint(driver's side) and a brake job. My answer was,"it'll have to wait, I'm not working right now. I brought the car back 2 weeks ago to do the ball joint because I started to notice the issue while driving and to have them check the transmission as it seemed to engage very slowly after shifting into gear(automatic-still warranteed). I got a call back stating I needed new brakes, pads and rotors. They also mentioned that nothing seemed wrong with the tranny, but I should change the front motor mount because it could later damage the tranny. I authorized the ball joint only and then received a call stating the bolt/nut at the tyerod end was seized and it would likely cost another hrs.labor($90) to get it off. I got the car back and it now pulls left far more noticably then when I dropped it off. Upon questioning the new issue the technician's response was I don't notice any pull as his finger helped keep the wheel straight. After expressing my point to the dept mgr. he said he would look at the file and call me with a course of action. I am to bring the car back again for them to check the truness of the alignment. Last item, I did the brakes myself and used a micrometer on the rotors(all looked fine) and didn't notice any sign of a formerly seized bolt/nut which a torch was used on. My trust level is nill right now and don't want them in or under my car.
My questions right now are what are the minimum thickness limits for the front and rear rotors(the new OEM rotors I bought and returned to Napa had a min. thickness imprint stating .295 for rears)? Also, how much would they typically need to turn-down to eliminate very minor grooving (on one of the rotors)? Going back to the dealership at 7:30am, 11/12/08. Much Thanks,

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  • kitegeek Nov 23, 2008

    Thanks Countrycurt0,

    Good news is the car alignment was done again with much better results, the service manager apologized for the way the brake issue was presented by staff(he was caught) and when pressed with the fact that I had to come in a third time to see satisfactory results I received a credit for the siezed nut labor and the alignment cost.

    Your response was greatly appreciated.

    p.s. I did the breaks in between the first and second visit.

    Happy Holidays,



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I checked autozone site, front rotors 1.020 thousandths rear .300. Yes, I agree, I wouldn't want them near my car. Of course, you're stuck because of trans warranty etc. An extra hour labor for a seized nut is ridiculous. These are so called 'professional' mechanics. This could take extra time, but 5 minutes, not 1 hour. If the fix goes extra easy, does the dealership drop the price? Of course not. At least not yours anyway! If u just replaced the brake pads, why do they say u need a brake job? I always have my rotors turned, but many people don't if they look good, and haven't gone metal to metal from former brake job. U need to go to micrometer reading at thinest wear point of rotor. If your brakes were pulsating, pulling, etc, the dealership could make a big deal about the rotors, but putting pads on rotors that are worn to approx. limit , but in good shape as far as wear and grooving, is not an issue here. I think u should try and find another dealer, or private garage for the future (good luck). When a tie rod is replaced, the # of turns tio remove it (from threaded sleeve) should be counted, and new one installed same # of turns to get to as close as possible to former alignment specs. It is a good idea to have alignment done again, as if it was a bit off before, it will be corrected to specs, so I do agree w/ the alignment of the car. Let me know how u make out.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

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