Help! I need to change the rear tire but there is some gizmo in the middle of the tire that stops me from removing. I have all the lugs off but I don't know what this is about, it looks like it may need to be unscrewed but I apparently lack the tool to do this? Ahh!
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Before doing anything make sure you have air in your spare..,A good Jack and spare tire removal kit....The kit should be under or behind the passenger seat..I don't like the factory Jack it comes with because sometimes you need a good strong block of wood to achieve the height you need to contact the vehicle..and sometimes they don't work correctly...Some spare tire release tools are under the hood..It is a long skinny rod ...You have to use rod or rod kit to stick through the rear bumper at the slot and turn the rod counterclockwise after you feel the rod connect with the release mechanism..,Lower the spare until it touches the ground then keep turning so you can have enough slack to remove cable from spare tire...Set parking brake while in park and use the lug nut removal tool to break loose the lug nuts before raising vehicle..They are removed counter clockwise..Don't take nuts off just break them loose...Block front wheels for safety with anything solid you can find if you are stranded..If you can't find anything rely on parking brake..It should be safe in park but safety first....Jack vehicle up..,remove all lug nuts put them in a safe clean place don't lose them..Remove flat tire..Install spare..Start each lug nut and tighten them all tight by hand..Snug each nut clockwise in a star pattern ..Get them good and tight but don't try to hurt yourself or break the stud...Lower vehicle,remove Jack..Snug each lug nut once again for safety..Put flat in truck bed for now rather than back in the spare storage area because it has to be repaired..Crank spare cable that held spare under truck clockwise until it stops.Remove tool..,Gather all tools used., remove blocks from front tires.,Head to a tire store...
To change your rear axle bearings on a Ford F-150 the first thing that you need to do is block your front tires and support the rear end on jack stands. You will then need to remove the tires from the back also. You can pretty much start any 1 of 3 places, either tire or the differential(is the round container that both axles run into). I would start at the differential so that all the gear oil can run off before I get back there.
You will need a 10mm socket to loosen the bolts on the cover of the differential. Loosen the top bolts but do not remove yet, then remove all lower bolts so that oil drains into a receptacle. Keep the top bolts in to keep the oil from gushing out every where. when done draining you can take them out and remove cover.
While thats draining move to the rotors(where the wheels bolt on). You need to remove the caliper which is where the brake pads are held to stop truck. To remove calipers,you have to remove two bolts 1 at top of caliper and 1 at bottom. After you remove those bolts you can remove it from the rotor. Next, remove the rotor itself(if rotor sticks apply some rust buster to loosen up parts and maybe a little heat( i stress little because you could damage parts) NO BEATING on rotor, unless you want a bigger problem than you started with. After removing the rotor on both sides of truck return to the differential. Now that oil has all drained remove cover and look inside. You will see 1 big gear wheel that turns a little group of 4 littler gears. You need to take the fat metal pin that is in between those four little gears out. To do that you will need to remove the small bolt that is in the top of the pin. If you can not see the bolt or you do not have access to it, you will need to put truck in N so you can spin the gears around until the bolt is accessible. When you get the pin out, you may have to spin gears again to remove pin completely. Now that the pin is out you will need to push the axles in, they should slide in about a quarter inch or so. Now if you look where you just removed the pin from, you will see your axle end. In order to be able to pull it out you need to remove a C shaped washer from the end of the axle. You can use a pair of needle nose but since its so slick in there from oil I just push it off the back with a screwdriver or something like that. Now you can remove axle. Just pull the end of the axle(where tire attaches) straight out from truck. Finally to the point of this How to. The bearings will be sitting just inside the metal tube you just removed the axle from. First you need to deal with the grease seal that sits right in front of the bearing that needs replacing. Use a slide hammer believe me you dont want to attempt this job without 1. You can usually borrow 1 from your local parts store.Remove old bearing and seal with slide hammer and insert new bearings and seals. Now you are ready to put it back together. Don't worry putting together is just following these steps in reverse. Don't forget to refill gear oil when you are complete, and anti slip.
you need to remove the cover in the middle of the rear axle rotate the drive shaft until you see a bolt with a 5/16 head on it slide out the pin that the bolt held in remove the c clip that holds the axle in slide out the axle and replace the seal you should do both sides while its apart then put it back together and fill threw the plug on the front side that uses a 3/8 drive
w/tire off insert strt screw driver into middle hole on caliper pry back towards you this will retract caliper, in rear of caliper 2 bolts pull those bolts remove caliper @ install new pads,, NO BLEED BRAKE REPLACEMENT, make sure to apply anti squeal lube to brake pads..pump brakes up after installation before driving!!! hope this helps!!!!!
You probably have the 9 inch differential. If it is a rear wheel seal remove the tire and wheel assembly. Be sure to use a jack stand so you don't have the vehicle fall on you. Remove the 4 retaining bolts that hold the backing plate onto the housing. Pull the axle from the axle tube. It may be stubborn at removal. If it is the pinion seal remove the drive line. Remove the pinion nut that rests inside the yoke. Try to use an impact tool for easy removal. Once the nut is off the yoke willcome off. You may need a puller to help in removal. One the yoke is off remove the pinion shaft seal. Replace with a new seal. install the yoke and the washer and then the pinion nut. Re-torque the pinion nut to 150 foot pounds.
This is a comon problem in winter months. You need to trace the cable to the left rear tire and remove the dirt and or ice from the cable hook up to that brake. Gently work it free with oil. When you get down there you will see that it needs to be relaxed back to the slack position. It won't help to just give it more cable...you need to free up the mechanism.
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jack the car take the tire off .remove the caliper ,,around middle of the rotor there is a small screw hole its is close to the tire screws you need to use a star key to take the screw off ,,that screw holds the rotor to the spindle once u take it off tap the rotor with a hammer gently to make it come lose sometimes u have to do that sometimes you don't need to ,,the rotor should come off easy ,,,replace it and put every thing back ..,,,Joe
problem is with over inflating the tires,causing middle tread wear,as long as you have more the 3/32 tread wear in the middle than you are ok.always set tire pressure when cold at around 33psi,check tire inflation sticker on dar jam for exact tire pressure
If this is a 2005 F-150 4x4. Usually if there is movement up and down, itmight possibly be the lower ball joints and not the wheel bearing, to verify that it is indeed bearing play you can grab a hold of your tire (with tire of the ground) and try and move it side to side instead of up and down. If you can still feel the movement then it is the wheel bearing. To get to the wheelbearing you will first have to remove the tiny center dust cap in the middle of the wheel. There should be a 13mm bolt you will need to remove under that cap. Next you will have to remove the brake caliper and caliper bridge, then remove the brake rotor. On the backside of the knuckle assembly you will see 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly (your wheel bearing) on. There also may be a plastic ring around the back of the hub assembly too that has vacuum lines running to it for the vacuum hub,this will be held on by 4 or so 8mm bolts, once all these bolts and the4 bolts holding the actuall hub assembly on are removed, you should be able to remove the hub (bearing) assembly from the front of the knuckle assy. Hope this helps.
hello i have a 1992 and im sure this would be the same To remove the spare tire: 1. Open both of the rear doors. Remove the access cover from the rubber strip found behind the left door. Insert tapered end of lug wrench or tip of jack handle through the access hole. Turn counterclockwise until the cable extends enough to allow the spare tire to be pulled rearward from under the vehicle. 2. Slide the spare tire to the rear and remove the retainer from the wheel. 3. To stow the cable/retainer with spare removed, turn jack handle wrench clockwise until slack is removed.
dont be afraid to crank on it real hard sometimes they stick. good luck paul