Im am working on a 1999 kia sportage and up until 2,500 to 3,000 rpm, it is very sluggish. I can hold the gas pedal to the floor and it takes the engine several seconds before it speeds up. The higher the rpm is the quicker it revs. I have checked the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, censors. The check engine light isnt on and I have been told it will do no good to have it hooked up to a computer, as long as the light isnt burning. We are in the process of checking the timing, the cover is off and the belt looks fine, but we are still going to make sure it hasnt jumped time. Im running low on options, any information you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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throttle position sensor/ Idle air control sensor no good one or both could be bad if you are parked can you press on the gas and the engine raises the rpm's or does it stay the same could also be accelerator cable broke if no raise in engine rpm's revs up
is it diesel, drive by wire or cable? is the pedal hard like stone and doesnt move? if its electronic then the sensor is prob bad. if its cable and hard the throttle body needs to be cleaned to free up the butterfly or plate
If its running rough under 40 mph then take EGR Valve off and clean out carbon.If the EGR Valve is stuck in the open position it is allowing exhuast gasses into the intake manifold before it should.P.S you can use a nonchlronated brake cleaner on it!
May want to check the throttle cable. Sounds like it is sticking. You can spray sum WD-40 on it that usually helps. The throttlecable is the piece that moves when the gas pedal is pressed. Near the intake on top of engine normally.
Nothing to fix friend. See, in diesel, when cold, there is an electric plunger on the throttle that speeds the idle a bit till warm up. Connected to that same wire is the cold start/temperature sensor. When cold/cool this sensor will excite the plunger to speed the idle, and put more fuel into the engine making the smoke you see, until warm up is reached and the sensor shuts down. You really don't have a repair needed friend.
Look on the shifter lever,just bellow the push button. There is another push button there. That's the one you press or depress to keep the transmission on 3rd. gear. Just press it again and the hold light should come off.
The purpose of my post is to try to help everyone with their frustration with their 01 kia sportage 2.0 dual over head cam 4 door 4x4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. Keep in mind that this may work on other makes and models im sure but because I have not tested on any other makes and models don\'t hold it to me "CAUSE I DO NOT KNOW" try it and find out and report back here and tell the others if it did or not. PLEASE AS FOR I WANT THIS TO HELP EVERYONE from getting ripped off at kia.... please read carefully the only code I remember seeing there was like 6 other ones ONE WAS P15110 This is in regards to the dang "HOLD LIGHT FLASHING" "WITH ENGINE LIGHT STEADY LIT" This dang trans would not come out of 2nd gear and there was no transmission codes at all. OTHER SYMPTOMS RESULTED IN IT WOULD NOT START UNLESS YOU HAD PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL JUST A BIT AND PLAYED WITH THE GAS TO KEEP IT RUNNING ONCE IT WARMED UP IT WAS REALLY ROUGH IDLE BUT IT WOULD STAY RUNNING AND ONCE YOU SHIFT IT INTO ANY OF THE GEARS ON THE SHIFTER IT WOULD DROP THE HELL OUT THE RPM\'S YOU WOULD HAVE TO RIDE THE GAS AND THE BRAKE JUST TO TRY TO MAKE A 2.5 TURN 4WHEEL DRIVE WORKED IN HIGH AND LOW ALL OF THE GEARS ON THE SHIFTER WORKED ALSO JUST WHEN YOU DROVE IN DRIVE IT WOULD NOT GO INTO 2ND 3RD OR 4TH OR OVER DRIVE. FIRST OFF DO NOT I MEAN DO NOT USE GENERIC SENSORS AS A REPLACEMENT PARTS KIA CARS DON\'T LIKE THEM AND GIVES YOUR PCM WRONG DATA..... NO IF\'S BUT\'S AND\'S BOUT IT!!!! EITHER FIND A WRECKED KIA LIKE I DID, "MAKE SURE IT WAS WRECKED FROM BEHIND" EITHER ON CRAIGS LIST OR I GOT LUCKY AND FOUND 1 OUT OF THE WHOLE JUNKYARD... "MAKE SURE KIA IS WRITEN ON THE PARTS" I TELL YOU TO GET... ONE PART IS THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR THE OTHER ONE IS THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE SENSOR THE THIRD ONE IS MAF SENSOR REALLY PAY ATTETION TO THIS DEAL HERE LOOK AT THE WIRE HARNESS AND THE PLUGS THEY BOTH ARE IDENTICAL THEY WILL AND CAN BE SWAPPED FROM ONE SENSOR TO THE OTHER, "MAKE SURE YOU DON\'T GET THEM MIXED UP" I KNOW THIS DOES NOT MAKE SENCE TO YOU WHY WOULD ENGINE SENSORS KEEP AN ENGINE FROM SHIFTING TO HIGHER GEARS " THIS IS CALLED LIMP MODE" THE PCM DETECTED SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE ENGINE SO IT REFUSED TO SHIFT TO HIGHER GEARS ITS CALLED LIMP MODE SO YOU CAN LIMP YOUR SELF OFF THE BELTWAY AND TO A SERVICE STATION THAT WHY YOU SEE THE "HOLD LIGHT BLINKING TO LET YOU KNOW SOMETHING IS WRONG BUT NOT SERIOUS LIKE I SAID ABOUT THE 2 SENSORS HAVING THE IDENTICAL PLUG THIS IS WHERE IT MAKES SENSE THE THROTTLE POSSIONING SENSOR IS NOTHING MORE THEN A OLD RADIO KNOB AND ITS SOLE PURPOSE IS TO DETECT THE POSSION OF THE WHAT THEY CALL IS THE BUTTER FLY WHICH IS INSIDE THE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM THE BUTTER FLY CONTROLS HOW MUCH AIR GOES INTO THE COLD AIR INTAKE IF THE THROTTLE POSSIONING SENSOR GOES BAD IT WILL ACT UP JUST LIKE YOUR OLD STEREO KNOB DID WHERE IT WOULD JUMP UP REALLY LOUD AND TON OF STATIC CAN BE HEARD THROUGH THE SPEAKERS WELL PICTURE THE PCM AS THE SPEAKERS AND THE THROTTLE POSSIONING SENSOR AS YOUR STEREO KNOB. NOW DO YOU REALLY THINK THE PCM REALLY KNOWS WHAT TO DO WITH STATIC IT CANT HEAR PROPER SIGNAL THROUGH STATIC AND WHEN IT DOES IT REVES UP FAST AND DROPS CAUSE THAT IS WHAT THE PCM UNDERSTANDS THROUGH STATIC CONNECTION SO IN RETURNS GIVES YOU ERATIC IDLE UP AND DOWN AND ROUGH AND HARD STARTING AND OR NO STARTING CAUSE THIS PCM ALSO CONTROLS WHEN TO PUT THE SPARK FUEL WHEN THE AIR IS APPLIED BY PRESSING ON THE GAS PEDAL. NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID THIS WILL HELP YOU UNDERSTAND THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE A LIL BETTER ITS NOT A MOVING PART IT HAS NO STATIC IT MEASURES HOW MUCH AIR COMING THROUGH IF IT BECOMES DIRTY IT WILL INTERUPT THE SIGNAL AND MAKE IT RUN MORE LEAN OR NOT LEAN ENOUGH SO IF YOU PLUG THE THROTTLE POSSIONING SENSOR INTO IT AND THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE PLUG INTO THE THROTTLE POSSIONING SENSOR IT WILL ONLY HAVE 1 READING AT ALL TIMES FOR THE THROTTLE AND LIKE WTF FOR THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE AND IN RETURN THIS IS WHY WE HAVE TO PRESS SLIGHTLY ON THE GAS TO GET IT TO START UP.... AND IF THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE GETS CLOGGED UP WICH OVER A PERIOD OF TIME IT WILL YOU CAN TRY TO CLEAN IT WITH SENSOR SAFE CLEANING SPRAY THAT YOU CAN GET AT ANY POPULAR AUTO STORE OR REPLACE IT FROM DEALER OR JUNKYARD OR CRAIGSLIST IT....... BUT MAKE SURE IT SAYS KIA ON IT. OR YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE ROUGH IDLE FROM WHAT I HAVE WITNESSED..... ALWAYS A RULE OF THUMB AFTER YOU REPLACE A PART ON YOUR CAR OR TRUCK RESET THE PCM BY 1 USING A SCANNER TOOL AND OR JUST BY REMOVING THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM YOUR BATTERY AND HOLD IT ONTO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL FOR 15 SECONDS AND THEN RECONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE TERMINAL TO YOUR BATTERY AND TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSSITION FOR ABOUT 5 SECONDS AND THEN START AS NORMAL AND DRIVE AROUND THE BLOCK AND BACK HOME AND THEN TURN IT OFF FOR 10 SECONDS AND THEN START AS NORMAL AGAIN AND YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE THAT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ANYMORE AND ALSO THE HOLD LIGHT SHOULD BE GONE AS WELL CONTACT ME PERSONALY YOUR SELF IF YOU HAVE ANY FURTHER PROBLEMS FROM THIS AND EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN A VICTIM OF KIA CONTACT ME AS WELL IF THEY HAD TOLD YOU IT WAS YOUR TRANSMISSION WHEN IT REALLY WASN\'T
My theory is that it could be the injectors clogging. You could first try running a higher octane fuel, then if that doesn't seem to help try using the minimal amount of gas, and add injector cleaner to the tank. If all of this fails to work you can take your vehicle to the dealership where they can run a system analysis on it and help you pinpoint the problem. Hope this was helpful. Please rate my solution, thanks.