Question about Ford F

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Engine cut-out I have a Ford Fiesta Mk4 1.25Zetec 1999(T). WhenI am driving, regardless whether the engine is idle or under load, the enginesuddenly cuts out. There is no juddering or misfire when this happens, it islike someone has cut off the fuel supply. I have no engine management lightdisplay on the dash when this happens. When the engine has died and I turn mykey to position II, I do not hear the fuel pump activating, but give it aperiod of time you hear a buzz from the rear of the vehicle of the fuel pump activatingand runs normal. I replaced the fuelpump, relay, fuse & filter & there is no contamination or debris in thetank. Also replaced the following: 1)Throttle position sensor. 2) Crankshaft sensor. 3) Idle control valve(ICV). Itis nothing to do with the spark plugs or battery as I have checked these &the car runs perfect as if nothing is wrong. Could it be ignition, immobiliseror wiring to one of the sensors (not the actual sensor itself) or voltage?

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  • tacey_clark2 Nov 11, 2008

    Hi,

    My car is actually in the ford garage at the moment, so i can't look at what lights come on. I do recall that when it cuts out that it looks like the same lights come on as when you turn it to position II which displays all the ignition lights.

    When the car is running there is no lights but when it dies the normal ignition lights(RED) come up.

    It will die weather idle or under acceleration/cruising, it has become worse as i only drove it about a mile up the road and it died, then i sat for about 5/10 minutes and it started and then died again a further half a mile up the road, if this makes sense if i leave it for longer after its died and not try starting for say 5/10 minutes it will almost gurantee to start but if i do it say immediatley after or a few mins after you will just get the cranking of the engine and it will literally start up for a few seconds as if its using just the fuel that is already in the fuel lines/rails with no throttle though like if you try and rev it there will be nothing as if i has no access to the fuel due to the pump not activating.

    Im pretty sure that light does come on after it die-ing, it just dies silently no juddering etc....just gone and the only way i know its dies is when all these red igniton lights come on and there is no throttle.

    I hope this helps, i will get back to you in more detail when i finally get my car back, assuming that this is ok what else would you consider being a possible cause of this...could it be the actual wiring(3-Pin Connector) to the throttle posistion sensor or any other sensor as they can become dirty and cause a bad connection, i know it sounds simple but maybe it could be? The reason i say this is becasue about 2 weeks ago i replaced the Throttle Posistion Sensor and my car ran for almost 3 days and it ran perfect and thought id fixed it but obviously not because it died again.

    Cheers for your help so far and these other idea's is much appreciated... think we are looking along the right lines though as ive aliminated the obvious such as battery and plugs and sensors.


  • tacey_clark2 Nov 13, 2008

    Hi,

    ok i have my car back the story is below and when it cuts out i just get the normal oil light, battery light like nothings wrong but it definatley kills the fuel pump as it does not activate after it has died. do you reckon its my ECM and nothing like immobilizer/ignition probs, after the guy at ford sayin water probs i think a new EC will solve it??


    Ok i got my car back from ford today they said there was water damage to the ECM/ECU and he fitted a new cover and rubber gromet to stop water getting in or something and dried it out. Anyway i managed to get home no problems and thought wow! he's fixed it, but a few hours later i popped out and yet again it dies on me!!!! and this cost me £235.00. whilst i was there he said that there was water damage and to cover himself he said that if it dies again i need a new module at a cost of £500.00!!! i aint happy is this possible for a fault to occur to ECU but with water rather then heat damage im thinking of a getting a second hand one from scrappy, can you advise what it involves to change it, i think i could do it but would i need to change ignition barrell etc or just plug the new ecu in??

    Thankyou very much for you time is much appreciated....




  • tacey_clark2 Nov 14, 2008

    Hi,



    Ive just removed my ECU tonight, yea i earthed my self too just like
    when i
    build my computers :) and disconnected the battery it slotted out a
    treat, so
    if i match the exact number and ecu code will i just be able to replug
    the new
    one in and no need for keys and transponders ring and all that stuff.
    Also ive
    had the car standing for a day and its totally dead now normally after
    you
    leave it standing you'll hear the fuel pump kick back in but now the
    fuel pump
    is not kicking in what so ever...so i assume its the ecu that has had
    the
    effect, altho they must have done something because when i took it from
    ford it
    ran a bit further then normal but now nothing. I did unplug and replug
    my ecu tonight but still the same thing just dead no fuel pump noise
    from the back but i do hear the clicking of the relays at the front.





    So just to confirm as long as i replace it with the exact ecu there is no need
    to change ignition barrel and keys etc etc....im just scared that its also
    something to do with the ignition and immobilizer which i do know is all linked
    to the ECU/ECM, there is defiantly been water leaking in as i can see marks of
    water drip around this little black cover that sits over the ECU/ECM im also
    going to check the wiring to the fuel cut off switch, is there anyway to by
    pass it/short it, it has not been activated as it is still in it lowered position
    but i fear maybe water could have damaged the connections just another thing i
    can check before i get another ECU. i also removed the cover to the ecu and the
    circuitry looked totally sound but obviously damage on electrical components
    are rarely visible.



    Cheers again. - sorry i think it posted it in solution for some reason








    My ECU is



    PIES



    XS6F-12A650-PA




  • tacey_clark2 Nov 22, 2008

    Ok changed my ECU and transponder ring and barrel with keys and still no good! ok listen up there is no fuel pump whats so ever now so this should have made it easier to diagnose.

    It wouldn't be Ignition module, switch or oute like that??? just idea's for you. its something revolving around the fuel pump it does not activate what so ever.

    Relays all checked, fuses all checked, there was 1 fault code at fuel pump when i got it back from ford garage.




  • tacey_clark2 Nov 30, 2008

    Hi,

    I have a ford fiesta 1.25 zetec 1999(T) i had a problem with
    my car cutting out which i have now solved. It was a wire between the
    fuel cutoff switch and fuse box that was at fault due to a previous
    person who fitted the alarm cut into the fuel wire line to the pump
    which was killing the car anyway....

    The car us running finally!
    but now the problem is that the car just runs like a camel i cannot be
    driven like this, it hesitates/jerks when accelerating and just
    constant flat spot real real poor.

    I dont wanna go through all
    of this again it ran fine before apart from cutting out so im thinking
    since ive got it running again maybe the ECU's fault codes need
    clearing or sumthing? i know there self learning but i dont think its
    sensor or plugs or coilpack maybe wiring? im so annoyed i get it
    running and now it just terriable...all thats been touched is redone a
    wire to fuel pump and ecu reconnected...

  • tacey_clark2 Nov 30, 2008

    Hi,

    I have a ford fiesta 1.25 zetec 1999(T) i had a problem with
    my car cutting out which i have now solved. It was a wire between the
    fuel cutoff switch and fuse box that was at fault due to a previous
    person who fitted the alarm cut into the fuel wire line to the pump
    which was killing the car anyway....

    The car us running finally!
    but now the problem is that the car just runs like a camel i cannot be
    driven like this, it hesitates/jerks when accelerating and just
    constant flat spot real real poor.

    I dont wanna go through all
    of this again it ran fine before apart from cutting out so im thinking
    since ive got it running again maybe the ECU's fault codes need
    clearing or sumthing? i know there self learning but i dont think its
    sensor or plugs or coilpack maybe wiring? im so annoyed i get it
    running and now it just terriable...all thats been touched is redone a
    wire to fuel pump and ecu reconnected...

  • tacey_clark2 Nov 30, 2008

    Hi,

    I have a ford fiesta 1.25 zetec 1999(T) i had a problem with
    my car cutting out which i have now solved. It was a wire between the
    fuel cutoff switch and fuse box that was at fault due to a previous
    person who fitted the alarm cut into the fuel wire line to the pump
    which was killing the car anyway....

    The car us running finally!
    but now the problem is that the car just runs like a camel i cannot be
    driven like this, it hesitates/jerks when accelerating and just
    constant flat spot real real poor.

    I dont wanna go through all
    of this again it ran fine before apart from cutting out so im thinking
    since ive got it running again maybe the ECU's fault codes need
    clearing or sumthing? i know there self learning but i dont think its
    sensor or plugs or coilpack maybe wiring? im so annoyed i get it
    running and now it just terriable...all thats been touched is redone a
    wire to fuel pump and ecu reconnected...

  • sherrywine34 Dec 21, 2008

    i have a ford taurus staion wagon, and my husband was going to work and it started up fine but, when he started to drive it started to spit and sputter, and then just died for no reason. all dash lights come on but, will not crank over.

  • Anonymous May 25, 2009

    de.. have much of the same problem.. i have a 1998 ford windstar. the car start up nicely, runs for a few miles, then cuts off suddenly. let it stand for a few minutes, it restarts. replace fuel pump, and fuel filter, no result.

  • Rabindra Robinson May 11, 2010

    when you turn on the car lst us say normaly do yo see the check engine light coming on? and then you have mentioned that the light does not come on when the car cuts off while you are drving ami right?



    now each time the vehicle cuts off the light on the dash is supossed to come on immediately indicating that the ECM is functioning ok and if if it does not come on and after a little while the light happens to come on it indicates that the ecm is over heating and needs to be replaced.

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My daughter has a 1998 Mazda Familia and had a similar problem with her car. She took it an auto electrician where they checked the engine computer 'fault register' and the two items with fault codes were the Knock Sensor and the Cam Position Sensor. The Knock Sensor had 'melted internals' and they replaced it with a good second hand unit; they also replaced the worn spark plugs. The loss of engine power continued.


My daughter

Posted on Feb 26, 2011

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Ok a lot of people have been having problems with starting a idle running problems with ford zetec and zetec SE model fords of the 1.25 and 1.4 focus flavors.often without any dash board warning lights to signify ecu problems.
The main cause of these problems seems to be with the ignition coils and the fuel cut off switches (situated in the rear left of the glove boxe) "remove glove box its on the left with yellow cap" the easy way to check firstly the for coil failier first is remove plug 4 if it has a black line down it's side thats the problem! it is often wise to change not only the coil pack but the plugs and leads also. this instantly solved idle problems on 2 fords i have been working on. finaly the fuel cut of switches which are of bad design often fail and "pop up when jared" by speed ramps etc replace the faulty part with new one.

Second hand coil packs are pretty common and available in most scrap yards for about £20.00
New hope youve got a deep wallet over £100.00

if you fix your car with this information then please vote for me.

Posted on May 07, 2009

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Hi i had a ford fiesta 1.25 and i had problems kepping it going aswell. it turned out to be under the rear seats we had to drill a hole to get to the fuel tank because the wiring plugs to the inbuilt fuel pump had vibrated so much the wiring pins had disconnected themselves. id check that if i was you, it worked for me and never had a problem since.

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

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Ive just removed my ECU tonight, yea i earthed my self too just like when i build my computers :) and disconnected the battery it slotted out a treat, so if i match the exact number and ecu code will i just be able to replug the new one in and no need for keys and transponders ring and all that stuff. Also ive had the car standing for a day and its totally dead now normally after you leave it standing you'll hear the fuel pump kick back in but now the fuel pump is not kicking in what so ever...so i assume its the ecu that has had the effect, altho they must have done something because when i took it from ford it ran a bit further then normal but now nothing. I did unplug and replug my ecu tonight but still the same thing just dead no fuel pump noise from the back but i do hear the clicking of the relays at the front.


So just to confirm as long as i replace it with the exact ecu there is no need to change ignition barrel and keys etc etc....im just scared that its also something to do with the ignition and immobilizer which i do know is all linked to the ECU/ECM, there is defiantly been water leaking in as i can see marks of water drip around this little black cover that sits over the ECU/ECM im also going to check the wiring to the fuel cut off switch, is there anyway to by pass it/short it, it has not been activated as it is still in it lowered position but i fear maybe water could have damaged the connections just another thing i can check before i get another ECU. i also removed the cover to the ecu and the circuitry looked totally sound but obviously damage on electrical components are rarely visible.

Cheers again.



My ECU is

PIES

XS6F-12A650-PA

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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I am pretty sure and would look into the ECM and i know for sure that the ecm is over heating and it breaks the circuit to your fuel pump relay please keep me posted

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • Rabindra Robinson Nov 14, 2008

    water damaged ECM should just be replaced i know it is expensive howevr used parts are not bad as long as you get the right one just match the old number to the new one and do not pull on the wiring harness to the ecm if you use a 8mm socket to back out the bolt holding the wires the whole wiring assmbly will come out then remove the old unit and replace but make sure to disconnect the battery and avoid static by strapping your self or grounding your self to the body of teh car you can do this by touching the body of teh car as often as you can!!!!

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