Question about 1991 Toyota Previa
Our 91 Previa stopped running the other day. After closer exam, the distributor rotor scews came loose and cracking and distroying the inside of the distributor cap. I proceeding to replace the damage parts.
Once the new parts were installed, it still did not fire up. I thought that the distributor may have moved with the mishap. I adjusted the distributor and then realized that the spark plug wires were in the wrong order. Corrected this, and fired up the van. It ran, poorly but fired up. I went to fine tune the timing and it has not fired up since. Is this beyond the distributor? Thanks.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1994 Toyota Camry Won't start.
you should check 3 things. AIr, Fuel, and "spark"
your cars could have many problems. Ignition module, fuel injectors, Mass Airflow Sensor.
You should check into all of these 3 things.
a crank-no start could be many things.
it could even be a cam positions sensors resistance going up when the engine heats up. Cracnk- no start means testing. n like i said
The motor is getting Air, There is Fuel being put into the cylinders, and the Spark plugs are firing.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
I reccommend putting WD40 or CRC on the connections to stop them corroding over time. You also want to make sure the Distributor Cap gasket seals well to keep out water. last make sure you don't get the leads mixed up, best to replace them one at a time. cheers
Posted on May 17, 2009
Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?
Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)
If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Testimonial: "Fantastic! Thanks for the insight and suggestions!"
go back into the rotor cap and check it for carbon tracking, and check the rotor button for carbon/ melting, its possible the coil. make sure you have good fuel pressure and that it hasnt jumped time.
Posted on Mar 10, 2011
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