1) Your car should have a thermostat regardless of what your mechanic says. Fuel injected vehicles run better and more efficient at proper temperatures. So re-install thermostat properly before step 2.
2) Did the mechanic make sure the heater was on high temperature and blower on when he re-filled the cooling system?
Maybe not. So start engine when cool and rad cap off. Fill rad about an inch from the top and let the engine run up to normal operating temperature and keep an eye on coolant level in rad and keep it topped up as it's running. Rev the engine slightly for 5 seconds or so every once in a while to help with flow and pressure to make sure coolant is getting to and through heater core. Keep observing flow in rad to make sure it's good, when thermostat opens. You won't see much movement until thermostat opens at normal operating temperature, then you should see flow in rad and shortly after, rad fan should come on.Leave rad cap off and heater on until the rad fan comes on and off 3 or 4 times to make sure all air is out of the system. Then, make sure rad is topped up, put rad cap back on and fill return bottle to proper level. If that doesn't cure your overheating, then something was done wrong, or you have a possible head gasket problem but proper diagnosis should be done by a competent mechanic. What was the car doing initially to warrant these repairs, overheating?
SOURCE: Coolant leak That can't be found
The leak can be from a number of places. The radiator may be leaking, a freeze out plug on the block, a crack in the block, the head gasket, etc. The only way to figure it out is to carefully check under and above the engine. You can purchase a small mirror with an extending handle to view the difficult tight areas (available at most auto parts stores). The reservoir can even have a split in it where it's difficult to see, like in the bottom, or up against the fender. Check the hose from the bottle also. So pick up a mirror, and start your detective work. Since it leaks so quickly, it should be pretty easy to track down. When you go under the car, make sure wheels are blocked, and car is on safety stands. Good luck, let me know what you find.
curt
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L. 1.) heat
It sounds like you have a leak. Diagnose where the leak is coming from. Check for coolant leakage at your water pump, at both ends of your radiator hoses, and the transmission coolant line. You may also want to replace your Thermostat just in case it's locked in the closed position.
SOURCE: engine coolant blows back into
it sounds like you may have air trapped in the system.there are bleeder valves to remove air.
with the engine warm & running open the bleeder valve(small screw mounted around therostat)
may be located in thero housing.bleed system until all air is out,close valve & top off system
good luck
SOURCE: car is overheating after short drive (3/4 hour)
The expansion tank will be more full when hot. Let it cool down and check it then. The level in the axpansion tank should go lower. If not then you may have a faulty radiator cap.
Also have you checked the cooling fan? Engine driven? With the engine off, spin the blade. Does it spin real freely? Continue to spin for more than a quick second? May have a bad fan clutch. They have fluid inside and the fluid can leak out of the seals after age.
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Intrepid to protect the floor from coolant spills. Designate an area to lay out each part alongside its bolts and connecting hoses and wires. Use a drop cloth here as well, some of the parts will have traces of grease and coolant. its position in each pulley before removal. This will save time when reinstalling. If needed, replace the timing belt and skip marking the old one.
and connected to the radiator and various other parts through a series
of hoses. It's rotated by the timing belt. Study these parts, as you'll
have to remove them.
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Hi Thank you for all the information. I am going to be getting another mechanic I only know a little about cars and it sucks. In the very begining what happened was I was driving and the car basically started over heating and the Coolant came bursting out of the Radiator well that's at least what he said. So he replaced the Radiator and Thermostat at the same time. After he did so I tried to drive it and it over heated again and had the same problem but this time it came out the Reservoir tank on my car Coolant coming out everything and the car over heating. So he comes back to my car and basically then says its the water Pump which after he replaces the water Pump the car still was showing that it was running hot but when the gauge showed hot the car wasn't even running for 5 mins. He then cam to bleed the car and tried to pressurize it by using his mouth on the reservoir tank. I found that to be really Odd but it seemed to work for a little now whats happens is it goes close to hot but it does not go totally hot and sometimes when I turn my car off there is a release of Air. My car also has a rotten Egg smell and I constantly smell Coolant. So Now I drive local before my car started with all this its normal temp was under the half line on the temp gauge. Totally getting fed up...He told me my car couldn't be diagnosed on a machine because its a 94. So that is where I stand so far. I know for a fact that he didnt do all that you said in that order. LOL where do you live Need a good new mechanic LOL...
Yes I definitely think it's time to find a good mechanic, or should I say, A mechanic, because he certainly doesn't sound like a mechanic to me. What you mentioned about rotten egg smell caught my attention because that can be a sign of a plugged exhaust such as catalytic converter, which would also cause engine to overheat, and possibly blow a head gasket. I feel bad that you may have spent so much money on repairs that might not have been necessary. As far as him saying that a 94' can't be diagnosed,makes no sense for 2 reasons, 1) Chrysler has been using fuel injection since 84'-86' and,(2) it's a cooling system problem and diagnosing the reason for overheating has very little if anything to do with having it on a diagnosis machine, as the same principles apply to all cars. A coolant system pressure test should tell what's going on, and what is required to fix it. It sounds to me like a competent mechanic will likely find a plugged exhaust, and probably a bad head gasket unfortunately. The plugged exhaust will cause a head gasket to blow if bad enough. He may try replacing plugged catalytic converter first if confirmed, and then re-fill and bleed system well to see if any chance of getting away without replacing head gasket, but my guess is both will need to be done unfortunately. Here's to hoping you get lucky. Below is a link to a page that will give you an estimate of price to repair in your zip code. Just so you have a rough price of what to expect. Let me know how it goes will you ? Good Luck. Mikehttp://repairpal.com/estimator?checking_...
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