No heaters the coolant level dopped so i topped it up and the heaters wouldnt work for the rest of the day. the next day they worked but since then no air hot or cold blows from the vents.

When coolant gets drained and refilled air bubbles are often trapped inside the cooling system. If you imagine pouring a soft drink and you see all the little bubbles sticking to the sides of your glass, you'll get the idea. After driving those bubbles eventually "burp" their way up to the top, and consequently the coolant level drops. Top it up one more time and my guess is you'll be good to go.

Tenia, the most likely cause is that you are low on engine coolant. The coolant from the engine also runs through your heater coil. Check the coolant level when the engine is cool. There is a line in the coolant resevoir that says 'Cold Max'. Add the premixed coolant until you reach that line.

If that works, I would monitor the coolant level over the next few days. If it drops again, you likely have a coolant leak somewhere.

Have you checked the coolant level? Low coolant level will cause heat to not work.

First thing to check would be your coolant level in return bottle and radiator when engine is cool. Remove rad cap, and start engine and turn heater on, and see if level in rad goes down, or is low and if yes, top it up while engine running. Allow engine to get up to normal operating temperature and top up as needed while watching it. Allow rad fan to come on and off a couple of times then put rad cap back on, then top up return bottle to proper level. If level is up and you don't need to add any, then I'd start by changing thermostat. Be sure when re-filling system after changing thermostat, to start car and turn heater on while re-filling, and allow plenty of time with cap off to bleed any air out of system. I normally allow fan to come on and off 2 or 3 times to be sure. Then put rad cap back on and top up return bottle to proper level. Something else to keep in mind is that if the coolant level was fairly low when you first check it, is why was it low? Keep an eye for any coolant dripping down on driveway, or engine, and be sure to check return bottle level often for next few days in case of leak in system.

There are a couple of possibilities.
1. The heater core may be plugging up. Dirty coolant and lack of coolant services can contribute to this. Backflushing the heater more resolve the issue. If it does have the cooling system flushed to remove the rest of the contaminates from the cooling system.
2. The coolant level may be low. The heater core is usually the highest point in the cooling system. If the coolant where to get too low the heater core would starve for hot coolant at idle.

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check thermostat.its probably sticking open!

it sounds like your water pump could be getting weak, or your heater core could be partially stopped up.

If your "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light is on, you need to have that checked out first.
If not, the next thing you should check is your engine coolant level. (Antifreeze) If the coolant level is low, the engine coolant does not circulate through the heater core and the the heater doesn't work. The coolant level could be low for a number of reasons including a leaky hose, water pump, or head gasket. In any case, if it is found to be low, you need to find out why.
If the coolant level is OK then the thermostat function needs to be checked to make sure that the engine is reaching operating temperature.
If all of the above checks out OK, then the heater control valve and/or the blend air door in the HVAC housing needs to be checked for proper operation. (NOTE: some cars are not equipped with a heater control valve)

your heat is not working becuase the coolant level is too low meaning your heater core is full of air. the reason your car overheated is because the water pump impeller splines are gone and you need to replace the water pump. it is driven by the timing belt so replace that too. and the tensioner. this is the number one cause of vw overheating, especially on a diesel. i have replaced about 50 water pumps on this engine because of this.

You need to check coolant level in rad, when cooled down, and top up your return bottle to marked level.
Start by having coolant (antifreeze) ready, remove your rad cap, and top up the rad level, then start the vehicle, and turn on your heater (not defrost) . Let it run with cap off for a while, and keep an eye on level of the rad & top up as necessary, but leave an inch or so from top.Let it run & observe your guage while doing so, and when gauge gets to normal operating temperature, your rad fan should come on, run for a while then shut off for a while, then back on again after little while, and off again. Let it do this about 3 times, top off the rad as described above, put cap back on tight, and top up your coolant return bottle to mark on side. If your rad fan doesn't come on around normal operating temperature, and gauge heads too much towards hot reading, shut vehicle off, that's an indication that your rad fan fuse has blown, or relay, or fan itself is defective. If all works well & you now have heat, great, but keep an eye on your coolant return bottle level for next while to see if it keeps going down, and add as needed if it is. If the level in bottle continues to go down, you've got a leak in the system somewhere & need to address it a.s.a. p. to hopefully avoid bigger problems, but we'll get to that only if we need to. Do what's up above and let us know the results.