Question about 1991 Toyota Camry

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91 Camry fuse problem

I have a 91 Camry which is in very good condition. I just had the fuel injectors cleaned and after upon receiving the vehicle the 7.5 fuse that controls the power windows, automatic seatbelt harness and instrument cluster lights keep blowing out. When key is inserted into the ignition cylinder in accesory position windows, belt and light are present and functioning. When vehicle is started and in park they are still functioning until the vehicle is placed into drive and moved for a foot then placed back into park the fuse continously blows. This is noted obviously when the vehicle is shut down and in accessory position they resume to work. What can be causing this problem. (I've hard that the transmission selonoid and/or the break light switch could be an issue that could be tripping out the fuse --- your thoughts?
Will

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  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    Dear Toyota Ed,

    In response to your last message I took out the box in the trunk (which is called lamp failure). The instrument lights, seat belts, and windows are now working without blowing the fuse. Does this indicate that this box is the problem and needs to e replaced? or is it pointing us to another area where the problem really is?

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    I checked the circuit board as you indicated and noticed some distorted semi burnt or partial burnt on the areas where the male connector sodered into the board. No other areas have the same appearance just on those points. Would this be significant in causing the problem? I have not yet looked at the wiring harness. I'll wait for your response on this prior to getting into the wiring harness.

    P.S. Out of curiosity I checked with Toyota and they want substantial amount for this unit ranging in the price of $200 plus. Are you aware of any after market companies that offer the cirucit board at much lesser price?

    Thanks,

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    Dear Toyot Ed,

    Did you get my comment on your last suggestion?

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    Dear Toyota Ed,

    Do you still think that what we are looking is the light failure sensor because of its appearance on the pc side connectors sodering points that have, as you described a burnt appearance on the sodered points? And if needing to be repalced again do you have any suggestons on after market dealers rather than used or Toyota suggested retail price which is high?Will

  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    Do you know if I can post a photo through Fixya? As I'm not sure how to do this. If not I would probably only be able to put it through with a photo bucket link.

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 10, 2008

    Thanks, I'll have to wait for my son to come home from work to use his camera. I'll mostly likely have to do this tomorrow morning.

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 11, 2008

    Dear Toyota Ed,

    As stated we removed the lamp failure box and bipassed the lines to the break pedal which is operable on both the depressing and night lights on. Both are working correctly but now we are still experiencing 7.5 fuse burning of the prior mentioned areas power windows, automatic seat belts and instrument lights.



    Could there be a possibility of the neutral safety switch-transmission shift solenoid, where I was told that a short in this could possibly be causing the problem which also may explain why the fuse blows when the vehicle is on and put into drive gear, then put into park and as stated in our prior request the fuse blows right after it goes from drive to park or when the vehicle is slightly moved?

    Your thoughts?

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 11, 2008

    I've done everything you stated in your message but the fuse still blows out and this is with the box disconnected. Since we've mentioned that the power windows, belts, and instrument lights seem to be on this 7.5 fuse what other areas would this fuse be serving?



    Another question - is it possible that the ignition cylinder or in that area could be malfunctioning that can cause this problem. I ask this because when the key is inserted in accessory I believe that it should not be able to come out until the complete rotation and positioning one finger on the key release button.

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 12, 2008

    Hi, I can't do what you state in your last message because unplugging the harness from this box which I believe is the neutral safety switch does not allow me to start the vehicle because it breaks the circuit to the ignition key. Unfortunately the way I have been testing this and seeing that the fuse does blow is when the vehicle is started, placed in drive position, slightly move the vehicle and put it back in park and that's when the fuses begin to blow. Again only when the vehicle is started not when its shut down.

    What do you suggest???

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 12, 2008

    We tried this and it seems be effective. I started the car unplugged it, put a fuse in the appropriate area, put car in drive drove a few feet several times and backed up, checked windows, belts, panel light all working. Fuse did not blow.



    Are we looking at the possibility that it be neutral safety switch could be bad or is there a connection underneath the automatic shift leavor that could be bad? I looked at the wires carefully to the neutral safety swithch box as far back as I could go and noticed the wires were a bit hard but sound.



    Do you know the color coding on the plug going into the box that could be bypassed so we can start the car and proceed the tests I've been doing?

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 12, 2008

    We tried this and it seems be effective. I started the car unplugged it, put a fuse in the appropriate area, put car in drive drove a few feet several times and backed up, checked windows, belts, panel light all working. Fuse did not blow.



    Are we looking at the possibility that it be neutral safety switch could be bad or is there a connection underneath the automatic shift leavor that could be bad? I looked at the wires carefully to the neutral safety swithch box as far back as I could go and noticed the wires were a bit hard but sound.



    Do you know the color coding on the plug going into the box that could be bypassed so we can start the car and proceed the tests I've been doing?

    Will

  • nilferz Nov 15, 2008

    Toyota Ed has been very helpful. Although we still have not completely solved the problem will continue to chat with Toyota Ed

  • s_ramsahai69 Feb 13, 2009

    I have a 1993 jeep cherokee and everytime i have to start it i have to put it in neutral.Can you help?

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Open the lamp failure box; it comes apart quite easily. Look for obvious issues, like burnt parts, overheated/distorted circuit board, etc, anything bad. Then get back to me. We are half way there. You either have a bad lamp control, or a short in the brake lights, or the wiring going to the brake lights. If the box looks ok, go back to the trunk, look at the support for the trunk lid; ...Do you see a wire harness attached to it on the driver side? Follow that harness back down towards the back seat. Unwrap it, and see if you have any broken or chafed wires. Let me know what you find on both of my suggestions.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Try this: open the trunk, look on the driver side of the trunk compartment, behind the carpeting. There is a small box held onto a brace inside. Extract the box, and unplug the wire connector. Leave it unconnected. Replace the fuse, and try to make the fuse blow as you have described. Advise if the fuse blows or not.

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If there is anything, that is in any way "burnt", it needs to be replaced.
I would try a local auto recycler before I ordered a new light failure sensor.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Toyota Ed Nov 10, 2008

    Can you take a digital picture and post it here? I have just opened one of these boxes, and there are no burnt marks inside it. I have replaced them when I observed burn marks showing. If I could see it, I can point you in the right direction.

  • Toyota Ed Nov 10, 2008

    Take the photo.

    Remember where it is.

    In the box where you type your comments, look at the top left, click on the green icon. (insert image)

    Supported formats are gif, jpg, png and tif.
    The images must be 150KB or smaller.

    Follow the directions.

  • Toyota Ed Nov 11, 2008

    Will, If you did not have the problem with the box disconnected, and you have it again when the wires are re-connected, you either have a short circuit in the reear lamps, or the wiring to the rear lamps, the harness attacehd to the trunk lid support. I have never has an issue with the trans solenoids. The problem is in the back of the car, I'm sure of this. Check the wiring on the trunk lid to the body for chafing. Remove all of the taillamp bulbs, and recheck. If that fails, disconnect each of th taillamps completely. One of these ideas is going to solve your dilemma.

  • Toyota Ed Nov 11, 2008

    I'm getting the wiring book.

  • Toyota Ed Nov 11, 2008

    I was under the impression that the fuse does not blow with the lamp failure box disconnected.



    The 7.5 amp gauge fuse covers a lot of circuits.



    So, at this point, you have the lamp failure box removed, the rear taillamps disconnected, and there are no shorts or chafed wired in the trunk area. And, the fuse still blows? Yes? If so, here is where we are headed next: Open the hood. Look at the transmission, closest to the radiator. You will see a box on the side of the transmission. Have someone move the shift lever, to help identify it. When you find the box that moves with the shift lever, lokk for, and unplug the wiring harness from this box, replace the fuse, try to make it pop, and get back to me.

  • Toyota Ed Nov 12, 2008

    I am thinking that there is a short in that box, or the wiring. This device is the only thing that has electricity in it, with regard to the fuse popping when putting it back into park. The park interlock (under the shifter) is not active when your foot is off of the brake. Start the car, then unplug the box. See if the fuse pops again.

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Title:
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1133
Models:
’97 – ’99 Camry: 1MZ–FE CA Spec.
Technical Service
BULLETIN
February 25, 2000
TSB Revision Notice:
The information updated in this TSB is red and underlined.
Under certain driving conditions, some 1MZ–FE equipped 1997 – 1999 Camry California
Emission specification vehicles can exhibit a M.I.L. “ON” DTC P1133. An improved
Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor has been developed to correct this condition.
1997 – 1999 Camry (1MZ–FE) with California Emission Specification.
MODEL YEAR ENGINE STARTING VIN
1999 Camry 1MZ–FE
4T1BF2#K * XU088001
4T1BF2#K * XU933227
PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME
89467–41020 89467–41021 Sensor, Air/Fuel
Should a M.I.L. “ON” condition with DTC P1133 be encountered, perform diagnostic
procedures as described in the Repair Manual.
If the problem source cannot be identified after checking all affected areas according
to the Repair Manual, the cause may be an Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor malfunction. In this
case, replace the Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor with the current part number listed above.
If the Exhaust Manifold threads are damaged by removal of the sensor, they can be
repaired by the proper use of a M18 x 1.5 tap.
OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OPN T1 T2
895131 R & R Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 0.3 89467–41020 99 99
Applicable Warranty*:
This repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Warranty. This warranty is in effect for
36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in–service date.
Coverage is extended to 36 months or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first, in the
states of California and Massachusetts due to state emissions warranty legislation.
NOTE:
Please enter the DTC in the condition/Cause/Remedy section when applying for
warranty reimbursement.
* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Title:
SINGLE CYLINDER MISFIRES
Models:
’99 Avalon, Camry, Sienna & Solara (CA Spec.)
Technical Service
BULLETIN
January 14, 2000
NOTE:
The information contained in this TSB updates EG013–99 dated December 17, 1999.
Some 1999 California Emission Specification Avalon, Camry (1MZ–FE), Sienna & Solara
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single cylinder misfire code, or codes are present. Changes have been made in the fuel
injector production process to correct this condition.
1999 CA Emission Spec. TMMK produced Avalon, Camry (1MZ–FE), Sienna &
TMMC produced Solara (1MZ–FE) vehicles built between the VIN numbers listed
below.
MODEL STARTING VIN ENDING VIN
Avalon 4T1BF1#B*XU298504 4T1BF1#B*XU319557
Camry 4T1BF2#K*XU076403 4T1BF2#K*XU081214
Camry (cont.) 4T1BF2#K*XU930024 4T1BF2#K*XU931330
Sienna 4T3ZF1#C*XU090887 4T3ZF1#C*XU122589
Solara (U.S.) 2T1CF2#P*XC111083 2T1CF2#P*XC757508
Solara (Canada) 2T1CF2#P*XC744113 2T1CF2#P*XC162681
APPLICABLE PARTS QUANTITY PART NAME
23209–0A010 6 Fuel Injector
OP CODE VWC DESCRIPTION TIME OPN T1 T2
895221 N R & R Fuel Injector Assembly – All 1.8 23209–0A010 02 56
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This repair is covered under the Toyota Federal Warranty. This warranty is in effect for
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Coverage is extended to 36 months or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first, in the
states of California, Massachusetts, and Vermont due to state emission warranty
legislation.
* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint.
NOTE:
Be sure to enter the DTC No. in the Condition/Cause/Remedy section, if a DTC Code
appeared.
ENGINE
Introduction
Applicable
Vehicles
Parts
Information
Warranty
Information
SINGLE CYLINDER MISFIRE – EG001-00 January 14, 2000
Page 2 of 2
1. Remove all six fuel injectors for
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Affected injectors will be labeled with
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or lower (see illustration for number
locations).
2. After determining that one or more of
the injectors are affected, replace all
six injectors with the above applicable
part number.
3. Clear the DTC, if present, and verify
that the vehicle now operates as
designed.

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