Sometimes you need to crack the bleeder to release the pressure on the cylinder just a thought and I have had to do that myself on other vehicles before. What you can also try is tapping around the edge of the booster sofly as you apply more pressure to the c clamp it might just shock it free. My opinion also would be to get a new brake booster as if it is seezed you are most likel;y going to have a problem later on down the road and brakes and brake parts are cheap human lives arent good luck
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Put in your search engine , Recalls on a 2002 Chevy Impala LS it will bring up quite a few good sites to pick from. They were more recalls then I could put down here.
You open the rear caliper bleeder valve as it is near impossible to push fluid to the front of car
Then you turn the caliper piston clockwise-to turn in the parking brake adjuster- as you push the piston into the caliper bore
Two functions-piston turned in & pushed in
You line up the piston notch to the top-so the round bump on the inner pad goes down in place
After the caliper & pads are on & before you start the car & bleed the 4 corners & then push brake for a firm pedal-----You ratchet up the lever on park brake at back of caliper
They don't make a tool for an LS
I took the cube avail at any parts store & filed the outsides of two pins to fit the piston notches
The pistons in rear disc calipers must be threaded back in -- trying to push them in with a C-clamp will damage or destroy the calipers. Note the recesses n the piston face -- there are mating tools available at the auto parts store for turning the pistons; they usually fit a 3/8" ratchet.
Using the inside pad, remove the clip from the back of the pad. Place the pad back against the caliper in its original position and using a 7" C-clamp open the clamp to fit over the caliper and brake pad in the center. Then turning the screw end of the clamp slowly push the caliper back. Watch that it's going in evenly. Once the pad touched the caliper you are done. Remove the C Clamp and old pad a install you new pads.
If the calipers have two,or four notches in the piston of the calipers,then the pistons have to be turned in,one side turns left,and the other right,then they will go back,the auto parts store sells a cheap tool for this,that you use a 3/8 drive ratchet with,if this was helpful,please rate,and thank you
I had problems with the calipers. I got an caliper clamp but it still didnt budge. I then rotated the caliper whilst pushing and bit of banging and eventually she went back in. Thanks Linda
Antilock brake systems don't like fluid pushed back through the system.
You should follow good standard practice, by blocking and ensuring the car is stable and safe.
When the wheel is removed, clamp off the flexible brake fluid line. When you push he caliper back to change the pads, do it with the bleed screw open and catch the fluid that comes out. When the caliper is fully depressed, close the bleed screw up. Change the pads, ensure you put anti-squeel on the outter surfaces. Inspect the clips, ensure they are all seated properly.
Check the runout on the rotor, make sure it's not warped. Get them turned or replace them as necessary.
When done, reinstall everything and remove the clamp.
Start the truck, pump the brakes a few times to get fluid back to the front calipers. Inspect the fluid level in the resivoiour to ensure enough fluid is there.
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