Question about 1994 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Coolant temperature sensor?????

Ok so i start my car everything seems to be ok, the heat starts pumping im all happy and warm. after a while im driving and the temp is going to like 110, 120 the fan does not seem to be going on and now im freezing because i have cold air blowing from my heater. why does my car hate me?
can the coolant temp sensor cause this problem ? to have hot air then cold? i have had the thermostat changed and the fan does work i find the top hose gets hot. the bottom hose stays cold for a while. when i leave the rad cap off sometimes the fan will kick in other times the coolant just starts coming out of the tank? i hope anyone reading this is not as confused as i am writing it do these cars run at hight temperatures? or what is normal?

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  • dj_shane007 Nov 10, 2008

    i will do my best i start the car because i keep thinking there is air in the top hose and take the cap off to bleed it or get the air out it takes forever for the temp guage in the car to get up to 90 at this point the top hose is very hot but the bottom one still cold a couple times the bottom hose finally starts to heat up and the fan goes on then others the coolant just starts backing up out of the coolant tank and the temp guage in the car is like 110 or 120



    if i just go driving the temp guage in the car usually goes above 90 to like 120 or 130 and i have hot air coming out of the heater but then it just starts comming out cold its friggin wierd

  • dj_shane007 Nov 10, 2008

    what is the normal temperature on the dash for these cars its in the middle which is 90 correct?



    ITS A 1994 GOLF 2.0 GL

  • dj_shane007 Nov 10, 2008

    oh ya and when the car is just idling its cool air comming out when i rev the engine its gets hot

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2 Answers

Since the fan switch is on the left side of the radiator it must be circulating some coolant to turn the fans on. It sounds like not much coolant is circulating to the heater core. Has the cooling system been cleaned/flushed lately? Or like was stated above it has air in the system and needs bled out.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Um...strange ...engine temp reaches 210 before thermostat opens and lets water circulate ..fans go on before that normally..180 or so..hot air from heater going to cold air? strange...could you elaborate for me /us?

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Ok 1989 f super duty no start when hot. showing codes 112,117 122 and998


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The thermostat "seals" the cool coolant giving up (rejecting) heat in the radiator & heater core from the hot coolant absorbing heat in the running engine "block".

When the coolant in the engine reaches a specific temperature (180 ~ 195 degrees) as determined by the value selected by manufacturer or when replaced, it opens and allows the hot coolant in the engine block to be pumped out to the radiatot & heater core for cooling and the cool coolant in the radiator / heater core is pumped into the engine block - replacing the hot coolant. The thermostat senses cool coolant in the engine block and seals shut until the temperature of the coolant in the engine block rises to 180 ~ 195 degrees again. This process continues over and over for as long as needed.

You should check to make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir / radiator is sufficient by checking when cold. Do NOT remove a radiator cap when it is hot! With the cap off, start the engine and add additional coolant as the engine warms up to normal operating temperature. If coolant levels are ok, the trouble could be related to the thermostat or possibly a faulty temperature sending switch. This means that the temperature of the coolant is fine - but the switch or sensor that converts the temperature to a voltage for the gauge on yur dashboard is the problem.

If the temperature is fluctuating up and down, you should have it fixed. Good luck!

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I have a 1994 Toyota pick up 4 cyl 22re engine and it revs up and down once warmed up. So once its warmed up if you step on the brakes it starts to stall or does stall. When I first got it It blew...


code 22 is for a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I suggest you change it. This sensor tells the truck's computer when the engine is fully warm. Without it, the computer is guessing at the fuel mix and it seems to be wandering around. Note: this sensor is different from the one that sends information to your coolant gauge. The gauge sender has only one wire coming out. The engine coolant temp sensor has two wires.

I would also have the brake booster tested for a vacuum leak. The engine stalling when the brake is depressed sounds like it is getting too much air and leaning out. If the brake booster is leaking and won't hold a vacuum, the extra air getting into the fuel mixture could also cause rpm fluctuations like you describe.

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dear sir,

the solution to your problem is simple. yes you say that it has a new water pump, but the reason that a vehicle bubbles out of the expansion tank is because the water pump is not circulating coolant, the coolant boils in the engine and bubbles out of the expansion tank. secondly the reason the fan never kicks in is because the temp sensor is not seeing the heated coolant because the water pump is not circulating the coolant through the cooling system. 3rd. the heater never gets hot because the water pump is not circulating coolant through the heater core in order for it to get hot and provide heat. and the temperature gauge never seems to go up because yup you guessed it, the water pump isnt circulating coolant in order for the engine temperature sensor to see hot coolant and thus send a signal to the engine temperature gauge as to the coolant temperature. i know you said it has a new water pump, but i have heard that this type of vehicle may come with a plastic fin pump. i would remove the pump and check the passages for foreign matter{ trash} in the passages as well as the condition of the new pump. also one last thing, the reason the vehicle died on the road in the first place was probably because it overheated. happy hunting and please post to see what you found. i am a mechanic by proffession.

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The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is mounted in the intake manifold and sends engine temperature information to the ECM. The ECM supplies 5 volts to the coolant temperature sensor circuit. The sensor is a thermistor which changes internal resistance as temperature changes. When the sensor is cold (internal resistance high), the ECM monitors a high signal voltage which it interprets as a cold engine. As the sensor warms (internal resistance low), the ECM monitors a low signal voltage which it interprets as warm engine.
0900c1528008f125.jpgFig. 1: View of the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 0900c1528008f126.jpgFig. 2: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor locationTESTING
See Figures 3 and 4
  1. Remove the ECT sensor from the vehicle.
  2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
  3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
  4. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs. resistance illustration.
  5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
  6. If the sensor does not meet specification, it must be replaced.
0900c1528008f120.jpgFig. 3: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor wiring diagram 0900c1528008f095.jpgFig. 4: ECT sensor temperature vs. resistance values

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1 Answer

Xterra repair


Since this is an intermittent problem, first try to determine if the problem arises due to one of these many intermittent problems:

* Vehicle vibration
* Heat sensitive
* Freezing
* Water intrusion
* Electrical load
* Cold or hot start up

If you can't isolate the cause of the intermittent problem, you can try adjusting the Idle Speed/Ignition Timing/Idle Mixture Ratio:

Idle Speed/Ignition Timing/Idle Mixture Ratio Adjustment

PREPARATION
1) Make sure that the following parts are in good order.

* Battery
* Ignition system
* Engine oil and coolant levels
* Fuses
* ECM harness connector
* Vacuum hoses
* Air intake system
* (Oil filler cap, oil level gauge, etc.)
* Fuel pressure
* Engine compression
* EGR valve operation (If so equipped)
* Throttle valve
* Evaporative emission system

2) On air conditioner equipped models, checks should be carried out while the air conditioner is OFF.
3) On automatic transmission equipped models, when checking idle rpm, ignition timing and mixture ratio,
checks should be carried out while shift lever is in “N” position.
4) When measuring “CO” percentage, insert probe more than 40 cm (15.7 in) into tail pipe.
5) Turn off headlamps, heater blower, rear defogger.
6) Keep front wheels pointed straight ahead.
7) Make the check after the cooling fan has stopped.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE

1 INSPECTION START
1. Visually check the following:
I Air cleaner clogging
I Hoses and ducts for leaks
I EGR valve operation (If so equipped)
I Electrical connectors
I Gasket
I Throttle valve and throttle position sensor operation
2. Start engine and warm it up until engine coolant temperature indicator points to the middle of gauge.
Ensure engine stays below 1,000 rpm.
3. Open engine hood and run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
4. Perform diagnostic test mode II (Self-diagnostic results).
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 2.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace components as necessary.
2. GO TO 2.

2 CHECK IGNITION TIMING
1. Run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
2. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed.
3. Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector.
4. Start and rev engine (2,000 - 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run at idle speed.
5. Check ignition timing with a timing light.
15°±2° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 4.
NG ' GO TO 3.

3 ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
1. Adjust ignition timing by turning distributor after loosening securing bolts.
2. Turn off engine and connect throttle position sensor harness connector to throttle position sensor.
' GO TO 2.


4 CHECK BASE IDLE SPEED
1. Check idle speed.
700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 6.
NG ' GO TO 5.

5 ADJUST BASE IDLE SPEED
1. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) 2 or 3 times under no-load then run engine at idle speed.
2. Adjust idle speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw.
700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
' GO TO 6.

6 CHECK TARGET IDLE SPEED
1. Turn off engine and connect throttle position sensor harness connector.
2. Start and rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) 2 or 3 times under no-load then run at idle speed.
3. Check idle speed.
750±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 9.
NG ' GO TO 7.

7 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check IACV-AAC valve and replace if necessary.
2. Check IACV-AAC valve harness and repair if necessary.
3. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 9.

9 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH SIGNAL
1. Run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
2. Set “Left bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
3. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 12.
NG (MIL does not blink.) ' GO TO 17.
NG (MIL blinks less than 5 times.)
' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor LH.
2. GO TO 10.


10 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH SIGNAL
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Run engine at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 2 minutes under no-load.
3. Set “Left bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
4. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 13.
NG ' GO TO 11.

11 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check fuel pressure regulator.
2. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
3. Check injector and its circuit.
Clean or replace if necessary.
4. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
5. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.


13 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH SIGNAL
1. Set “Right bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
2. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' INSPECTION END
NG (MIL does not blink.) ' GO TO 16.
NG (MIL blinks less than 5 times.)
' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor RH.
2. GO TO 14.


14 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH SIGNAL
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Run engine at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 2 minutes under no-load.
3. Set “Right bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
4. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' INSPECTION END
NG ' GO TO 15.

15 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check fuel pressure regulator.
2. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
3. Check injector and its circuit. Clean or replace if necessary.
4. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
5. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.
16 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH HARNESS
1. Turn off engine and disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect ECM harness connector.
3. Disconnect front heated oxygen sensor RH harness connector.
4. Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 50 and front heated oxygen sensor RH harness connector.
Continuity should exist.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Connect ECM harness connector.
2. GO TO 18.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace harness.
2. GO TO 9.

17 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH HARNESS
1. Turn off engine and disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect ECM harness connector.
3. Disconnect front heated oxygen sensor LH harness connector.
4. Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 51 and front heated oxygen sensor LH harness connector.
Continuity should exist.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Connect ECM harness connector.
2. GO TO 18.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace harness.
2. GO TO 9.

18 PREPARATION FOR “CO” % CHECK
1. Disconnect engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector.
2. Connect a resistor (4.4 kW) between terminals of engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector.
' GO TO 19.

19 CHECK “CO” %
1. Start engine and warm it up until engine coolant temperature indicator points to the middle of gauge.
2. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed.
3. Check “CO” %.
Idle CO: 1.5 - 9%
After checking CO%,
a. Disconnect the resistor from terminals of engine coolant temperature sensor.
b. Connect engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector to engine coolant temperature sensor.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor LH.
2. GO TO 10.
NG ' GO TO 20.

20 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Connect front heated oxygen sensor harness connectors to front heated oxygen sensors.
2. Check fuel pressure regulator.
3. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
4. Check injector and its circuit.
Clean or replace if necessary.
5. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
6. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.

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