Yesm I actually connected the negative terminal to the positive terminal on the battery and the positive to the ground... part of plastic around postive terminal melted,,, car starts up fine and light work, but,,,, all the dash light are on,,, brake, battery, etc... also , tack does not work, gas amber light on all the time... is there one fuse or solenoid that I can change to fix?
I have done own work all these years and have never reversed terminals? ahhhhhhhh
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Re: 1995 300 Diesel
Replace battery ..melted anode will leak noxious gases and KILL you.....i am inclined to think that a bad or melted ground line is the culprit to the weird dash light situation look from battery terms to main ground strap and clean and tighten..also dash area ...(headlights have their own connections separate from other wiring systems in car)
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Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground
Ignition Coil Resistance Check
In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.
Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.
You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection
Good question, because connecting it the wrong way can damage the starter, the battery, or both! The red cable connector clamps to the positive terminal, and the black cable clamps to the negative terminal. On a new battery, it is often easy to tell which is positive by their markings (+) = positive and (-) is negative. In reality, the markings may be difficult to see. The red or positive post is larger in diameter. The black or negative post is a ground so you can follow it from the post to somewhere solid on the metal frame of the car.
Note the cross on the top of the battery post.
According to In.answers.yahoo.com :
"...the battery case will have a + near the positive or a - near the negative terminal. If these don't exist then the positive post will have a larger diameter post than the ground post, this is if the battery is a top post.
If it's a side terminal battery which GM cars used for a while it should be marked on the top of the battery or on the front with its respective sign. Otherwise you can look at the cable that's connected to it which are usually color coded. Red is positive and black is negative."
Essentially, a "ground" is an electrical connection to a common return in circuit. In automotive terms a ground is a connection to the body or other metal surface of the vehicle. The body in the RX-7 is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Thus any connection to the body of the car is a connection to the negative terminal of the battery. Electricity flows from the positive of the battery, through the circuit to do some work, then back through the body to the battery (technically electrons actually flow from negative to positive but that is beyond the scope of this article). This is a "negative ground" system which is by far the most popular automotive ground scheme used in the automotive world. "Positive ground" systems were popular in the beginning with all car manufacturers and continued on in British vehicles until recently.
The main reason this is done is to greatly simplify the wiring of a vehicle. Since most car bodies are made of metal (at the very least almost all frames are) they provide a perfect ground plane, eliminating the need to run a separate ground wire to each circuit which almost chops the amount of wire necessary in half.
WARNING: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY OUTPUT WIRE (B+ WIRE) FROM GENERATOR. FAILURE TO DO SO
CAN RESULT IN INJURY OR DAMAGE TO ELECTRICAL SYSTEM .
Disconnect negative battery
cable at battery.
Diesel Engines: Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries.
Remove generator drive belt.
Remove generator pivot and mounting bolts/nut. The diesel engine uses a bolt
at top mounting and a bolt/nut at lower mounting. Position generator for access
to wire connectors.
Remove nuts from harness holddown, battery
terminal, ground terminal and 2 field terminals. Remove wire connectors. A
typical generator wiring harness is shown in. Wiring harness routing as shown
may be slightly different depending on vehicle model and/or engine.
Remove generator from vehicle.
Position generator to engine and install wiring to rear of generator.
Tighten all wiring fasteners as follows:
Install generator mounting fasteners and tighten as follows:
Generator mounting bolt-All gas powered engines-41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
Generator pivot bolt/nut-All gas powered engines-41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
Generator mounting bolt-Diesel powered engines-54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.)
Generator pivot bolt/nut-Diesel powered engines-54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.)
Never force a belt over a pulley rim using a screwdriver. The synthetic
fiber of the belt can be damaged.
When installing a serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed
correctly. The water pump will be rotating in the wrong direction if the belt is
installed incorrectly, causing the engine to overheat.
TURN OFF RADIO FIRST TO KEEP FROM LOCKING IT OUT WHEN YOU DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. SOUND LIKE WEAK BATTERY OR STARTER MAKE SURE BATTERY CABLES CLEAN AND TIGHT.IF BATTERY GOOD REPLACE BATTERY CABLES.CHECK STARTER MAKE SURE STARTER SOLENOID AND STARTER OKAY.YOU CAN HAVE THEM TESTED AT AUTO PARTS STORE OR USE A REMOTE SWITCH.REMOVE STARTER FROM VECHICLE USE JUMPER CABLES.HOOK NEGATIVE GROUND CABLE TO BATTERY NEGATIVE THEN GROUND STARTER BODY WITH NEGATIVE BATTERY JUMPER CABLES HOOK POSITIVE JUMPER CABLE TO BATTERY POSITIVE AND STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL.THEN HOOK REMOTE SWITCH TO STARTER STARTER SWITCH AND OTHER REMOTE WIRE TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL.PRESS REMOTE STARTER WILL SPIN IF GOOD.MAKE SURE INJECTION PUMP STATIC AND DYNAMIC IS TIMING CORRECT BEFORE STARTING TRUCK.
You can jump to the battery or alternator or starter. All have a hot lead. Usual method is positive clamp to the battery "+" terminal and negative cable to a good ground point. This could be the "-" battery terminal, a place on the frame, or a ground point on the engine.
Typically - Yes.
Some GM cars (and Mercedes) have the battery concealed and it offers a remote positive terminal for checking and charging.
You should connect to the positive terminal whenever possible. The negative side of the charger can be connected to any metal on the vehicle. Ground is ground - all over.
First, check battery post to cable connection: positive meter lead on battery positive post, negaitve lead on battery's positive cable clamp. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have zero voltage drop. Second, check the positive cable: positve meter lead on positive battery clamp, negative lead on starter terminal connector. A good cable will show a voltage drop of .2 volts or less while cranking. Third, check the starter connection: positive meter lead on positive battery terminal on the solenoid, negative meter lead on actual starter stud. A good connection will have a voltage drop of near zero volts. Now to check the negative side of the circuit. Total drop on the ground side should be .3 volts or less and can be checked by placing positive meter lead on starter housing and negative meter lead on battery ground post. Take your reading while cranking the engine, and be sure your connection at the starter is solid and clean. If total voltage drop on this side of the circuit is excessive, complete testing at all connections in the same fashion as the positive side of the circuit. Check the following: between battery post and clamp (zero voltage drop), cable end at battery to cable end at engine. (.2 volts or less), cable end at engine to engine itself (near zero voltage drop), and finally between starter housing and engine block (.1 volts or less).