I would like to know what can be stripped from the 2.8 engine that is not needed now that the inspection is different where i'm at. I kind of want carb engine exhaust . has the carb that clicks and a.i.r. tubes and all the rest that goes with a old car. I wanted to replace carb and do away with any emissions , sensors ,anything not needed. please give me a list of whats not needed and won't mess-up the computer ?? firstname.lastname@example.org 83 pontiac firebird v6 2.8 VIN 1G2AS8711DL216878 Year/Make/Model: 1983 PONTIAC FIREBIRD Body Style: HATCHBACK 2 DR Engine Type: 2.8L V6 2BL Manufactured In: UNITED STATES
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Re: what can i do without
Everything but the catalytic converter. I live in TN, the emissions test that I have to pass is a sniffer test. I have absolutely no emissions controls on my car, but when it comes time to pass emissions , i bolt the converter back on. Does fine.
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My state doesn't even do vehicle inspections, anymore. Hasn't done so in many years. If inspection places don't drive the vehicle and no check engine lite on and no codes. I don't know if they do sniffer tests? I thought inspections was mainly for emission issues? I guess you filled it up with oil? Your talking about engine oil? You didn't check anything on this vehicle before you bought it?
After reading your post, that whole vehicle has got me worried, not just the sticker. Take it to different mechanic have him give it the once over. See if it is safe to drive. I can't see anything from here. Safety is your responsibility.
I can't comment on the dealership. I don't know. I don't line in New York state, I don't know the laws?
It is almost impossible to explain this without knowing engine size".Does it have A/C...also is it a gas or Diesel engine..?..most gas engines have about the same pump however the surrounding components are in slightly different locations..This is very hard and difficult to perform without correct tools..So I am going to assume you have it all and are prepared...Remember I don't know engine size..Although there isn't a huge difference unless it is diesel..and if you are mechanically inclined at all with tools you can do it...If not don't even try it !!!!.....First you will need to inspect everything..Use a good light.put truck in park,set park brake,use safety blocks at wheels,wear safety glasses..If pump and hoses are dirty clean all with brake clean to see everything..check serpentine belt for damage/wear/cracks..check pump hose's for cracks/leaks..If all looks good you are ok..If not buy a belt and or pump hose's..buy at least 3qts.of new fluid..while getting pump..If it looks good and has never been changed the pulley will ok...however you will have to rent a pulley removal/installation kit from auto-zone..(Pumps don't come with pulleys)...also some have reservoirs mounted to them...I assume yours don't..?...Call for parts before leaving to save time...they will want old part for a core after completion ..,It will save you money...Get new part..,make sure it comes with new seals/o-rings..3 fluid..1brake clean..pulley removal/installation kit.line removal tool if needed.rubber gloves,drain pan,oil dry.(. Don't even attempt this in the yard Contamination Kills !!!! ).. Put truck in park,set park brake chock rear wheels,get safety glasses,gloves..LET TRUCK ENGINE COOL..Remove air cleaner,if in the way..draw a picture of belt routing if no diagram sticker is present.Remove belt.raise truck and put on jack stands at each front tire..leave enough room to turn wheels..remove hose's from pump,let it drain in pan completely.If you don't have a vise read instructions and remove pump pulley with removal kit.while on engine.take photo or mark how close pulley is to pump before removal.If you have vise remove 3 bolts after draining and remove pump/remove pulley while in vise.clean and inspect both hose ends,install new seals/o-rings.Inspect new pump for shipping damage.If vise was used install pulley to same location as removed.install pump..torque bolts to 20.lbs.install pump hose's with new seals.double-check/inspect ..Install belt and all that was removed.add 11/2 qts fluid..start truck and slowly turn wheels left to tight 4 times to self bleed system.add fluid while running if it don't steer smoothly..stop engine check and add to fluid..check for leaks and all components removed ...lower truck,test drive and double-check everything.......Hope this helps.....Brooks/Metalpoet...
Well I will start by saying it can't be done. Now, there might be a way if you can find a pickup truck without ac. Standard pickup trucks with the 4.6 and 5.4 engines do come without ac in rare cases, especially ones sold in northern states. And the routing is the same for either truck engine without ac. But the belts are different between the pickup trucks and your Expedition. I don't know what difference is other than the Expedition belt is slightly shorter than the pickup truck belts with ac. You may be able to run a shorter belt over the pulley above the crank and then over the pulley above the compressor, but I would expect to find bolts and brackets in the way. And there is no way to know what the length would be without trying to measure the distance going that route, since engines without ac are routed differently. Some of the idler pulleys are in different places on the engines without ac. And since all Expeditions come with ac, there is no belt listed without ac to get the length.
The engine will need to be removed (ideally), partially stripped down, thoroughly inspected and all fire damaged parts replaced. Many parts will need thorough cleansing before being inspected and tested. The oil will need to be drained and the oil filter replaced before the engine is refilled. Shortly after restarting the engine and warming it up it would be wise to drain the oil and replace the filter once more to ensure that all contaminated oil is gone. afterwards, she may find that the engine's major mechanical parts have suffered severe wear-related damage to the extent that it's a write-off. Much of the engine bay wiring loom will be damaged and will need to be replaced. The hood will likely need to be replaced and possibly the front fenders, driveshaft gaiters and tires. Some bodywork will need to stripped to bare metal and repainted. The chassis (if there is one) and body crumple zones will need to be checked to see if the metal has distorted or physically altered by the heat (too soft/too brittle).
All of this work costs a lot of time and money and even then it's easy to miss faults caused by the fire, so most cars are routinely sold for their scrap value after such a fire as it's usually cheaper to replace the car than repair it. In any case, it's definitely a lot safer to do so.
It may be a lifter tick, HOPEFULLY not a rod knock. However you would not need a brand new engine if either of those were the case. If you find someone that can rebuild the engine, that may or may not be cheaper depending on the dealer and parts that need to be replaced. It could also be the timing belt. The shop told you to wait for a check engine light because they dont know what's wrong with it, without plugging it into their computer. But you should NOT ignore it. Hope this helps.
Typically this is caused from improper timing. On that engine 3.8 v-6 most likely the timing gear is stripped and caused the chain to rotate.
The cam gear teeth is plastic, the plastic wears down (stripped) then the chain becomes loose which will change the timing which causes backfire when cranking over to start.
That engine doesn't have a distributor to check "top dead center" but the cam-sensor can be removed to look inside to see if the plastic gear is worn. I wouldn't recommend you doing this unless you know what to do. I would recommend to tow the car to the closest Buick dealership for inspection. If I'm right, you'll need to replace the timing gears & chain.
Your best bet would be to find a used engine assembly with ECM that already has the turbo and intercooler installed on it that will fit your vehicle as a changeout. There are a few differances in turboed engines, the pistons are heaverier duty, the crankshaft is heavier duty, the camshaft has a different performance curve and the ECM is different for the carburation or fuel injection. It would take you a lot of work to convert the engine over so it won't blow up when you jump on it due to overcharging the system. There are quite a few vendors that sell aftermarket packages, but that puts the turbo on the engine and does nothing for the engine strength, especially if you want real performance. Turbos are adjustable for the amount of boost the engine gets and the timing when the waste gate releases the boost to keep from blowing the engine. Depending on where you reside you may also have a problem with smog regulations, especially is there are annual inspections required. Good Luck, RAC