I replaced spark plugs and had the ignition module and coils checked they were all fine but when trying to start, it won't completely turn over and I know it's not the battery. the theft light comes on and I'm wondering if it's something to do with that or maybe my timing chain is shot. any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
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Re: 1997 grand am won't completely turn over
Remember, there are only three things you need for combustion. air, fuel, and spark. If your car isn't starting you are missing one of those things. If your car is backfiring it most likely is a timing problem because the spark is happening at a time when either of the valves should be closed but the are open and that is why you hear the backfire. I believe some of these cars have a timing belt and if you are off by a few teeth (I.E. the teeth on the belt have been sheered off the belt) it could cause a backfire. One way to check for spark is to take the end of a spark plug wire off and set it lightly back on the spark plug or coil and then crank the car (or have someone else crank the car) and if you are getting spark, you will hear the snap or crack of the voltage going across the wire jumping the arc you made when you pulled off the spark plug wire and didn't put it all the way back on.
Sometimes my sons 2001 Grand Am does that. It has to do with the Security System. Turn the key to ACC the Security light will start blinking and will continue to do so for 10 minutes. At that time the Security Light will stay on. At that point you can start you car. This works for him. Good Luck.
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start with the basics: an engine with no internal problems (like timing belt broke, or valve train not timed) needs fuel and spark to start.Since your getting fuel up to the fuel rail to feed the injectors, lets assume for the moment that the injectors are working to put gas into the cyllinder (You coud check that by pulling a plug or two out and see if they are wet or smell of gas.) Then check for spark (Hold the metal tip of plug wire 1/4 inch from a metal bolt or ground on the engine. Careful you don't get a shock-you can also buy a spark checker for a few bucks. just put the plug wire on it and ground it with the clip. Then you won't get a shock.) If you see that it is getting spark, then you may need an expert diagnosis for why it won't run. If you do not detect any spark (might want to try more than one plug wire) then you need to diagnose your ignition. If your car has a distributor, take off the cap and check inside for a cracked dist. cap or bad or worn rotor. You may also have a bad ignition coil or ignition module (expensive, but not as expensive as a bad engine control computer. Distributorless ignition? Again, may be a bad coil, coil pack, or ignition module. good luck, i'm about out of suggestions.
clear the codes run engine and see what codes come back up egr valve that could just need a clean, ignition coil and module that could be just because of the egr valve, misfiring could be the spark plug or lead on number 3, check clean all spark plugs, check clean or replace the air filter and check for vacume leaks.
So you have B+ to coil but no B+ from coil to distributor. Sounds like the ignition module.
Its not triggering coil to fire . Double check it with a test light at negative side of coil and then to ground.crank the vehicle if light flickers its ok if not its your culprit.
Should light flicker then test its the wires from coil to distributor, distributor , rotor and plug wires.
Honestly if the light flickers your not losing anything by replaceing the items from the coil tower to the plugs.
Test at the spark plug if you are getting current there with a cheap spark plug tester, if not, it could be the spark box. ( it used to be an ignition coil on older cars ) double check the computer for codes which may lead to a cam sensor not giving the PCM information.
Here are a couple of things that could be causing your problem.
1. Bad ignition coil or ignition module
2. Clogged fuel filter
3. Clogged air filter
4. Clogged fuel injectors
5. Bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and /or rotor.
6. Broken timing chain/belt.
Here are a few things you can try to verify that you have a good spark.
1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turned you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain.
2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad.
3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.
It could be that the ignition module is defective and causing this problem.If it's the original ignition module it may be time to replace it. The ignition module can be tested by your local Shucks or Auto Zone usually for free, The module when its starting to go out will work fine until it warms up, it will then quit working because the coils inside of it short out, until it cools down. If the module is completely gone there will be no spark at any time, The module is inside the distributor under the rotor held in by a couple of screws,