Have tried to pry axle out but no luck. New axle has spring clip on end but on old one, it is inside transaxle. Have read numerous forums on this subject but no one has answered this question. Please help!!!
Re: How to remove 1991 Toy Celica front drive axles?
I have a 91 celica st. i went to replace the axle and had the same problem you have. you just need to get enough leverage to try and pry it out. get a large pry bar and get in a spot where you can get behind it on the trans. if that doesnt work if the axle is free from the spindle try pulling out as hard as you can. it will most likely be a pain in the a** but eventually you should be able to get it.
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to remove front axle.to loosen front axle nut leave vechicle weight on wheel then just loosen front axle nut because axle nut torque at 217 ft lbs torquehard to loose axle nut with vechicle weight off wheel.okay. you need a 1/2 breaker bar and axle socket to loosen axle nut dont use 12 points sockets need go auto parts store buy right socket for axle nut.okay when you loosen front axle nut you need safely raise support vechicle. need to remove wheels remove fender apron seal remove transaxle fluid remove transfercase oil if you have 4WD.remove hub nut remove stabilizer bar link remove speed sensor remove tie rod end remove lower arm from the ball joint then slide the halfshaft from the hub then carefully pry the shaft from the transaxle.then install new front axle push in make sure front axle snap ring on front axle snap in place inside transmission just pull a little on front axle make its in place. when all done tighten front axle much as you can then when done putting every thing back in place.lower vechicle need torque front axle nut to 217 ft lbs.
remove the axle stub retaining nut, disconnect the lower ball joint, disconnect the tie rod end, pull the spindle out and away from the axle stub tapping on the end of the stub if necessary with a hammer (just be careful) to pull the bearing hub loose from the axle stub. after separating the outside slide under vehicle (make sure the car is on jack stands and the rear wheels are blocked from rolling and very secure before crawling under any vehicle) look at where the inside axle stub goes into the transmission. you'll need a good sized pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. work the pry bar in between the inside axle stub and a good thick part of the transmission and pry the axle away from the trans., there is a snap ring on the inside axle stub that internally retains the axle you have to pry hard enough to compress the snap ring into the axle groove which will release the axle for removal. it's not a bad idea to replace the axle seal in the transmission while you're there but if it's not leaking and you don't damage it in the removal of the axle it's not necessary. measure and compare the new axle to the old one, it may have some differences in the shaft like missing vibration dampeners but if it's the same length and both axle stubs match the old ones in size and number of teeth you should be good. when you install the new axle line it up by hand and slide it in as far as possible manually then tap it in with a wooden or rubber mallet. if you don't have a mallet use a scrap of wood to protect the new axle stub threads and tap it in with a hammer. after you feel the snap ring collapse and the axle slide in tap on it gently to make sure it's fully seated then grab the inner axle stub and tug on it to insure the snap ring is in place. then reassemble in reverse order of removal making sure all nuts and bolts are tightened properly and all retainers are in place. good luck
The most cost effective way to service these axles and C.V. joints is with a remanufactured drive axle.
The lower ball joints will need to be separated at the steering knuckle, the axle nut removed with an air impact wrench. Then the drive axles are popped out of the transmission with a large pry bar. Only a retaining clip holds the axle into the transmission. Good luck
Dear Stuck Shaft Sufferer.....I've read your concern and i have the solution for you.There is what they call cir clips on the inside of the axle shafts...these little clips are a failsafe for the axle falling out by itself.It's a little extra addon most auto manufacturees did to insure these halfshafts stay in frimly.....The easiest and best way to remove these is with a slightly bent pry bar....preferbly at least two feet long.you're gonna want to have the car up a little bit higher in the air so you can manuever around under it......crawl under there....bring a drain tray too cuz you might loose a little bit of fluid......get undr there and take your prybar and wedge it right between the transmission and the knuckle part of the halfshaft. It's gonna require a couple powerful short bursts....but it will make a little (click) when the cclip disengages from the trans itself....now duck and watch out for fluid........that's all there is to it...p.s. make sure the outer part of the halfshaft is free and clear from hitting anything so you don't get bound up when you're tryin to release it........if ya need anything else...get back to me.... I HOPE I HELPED!!!
Under the rubber boot inside the CV joint is a big spring clip round the edge , take this out and then the shaft pulls away from the axle with the CV on it .If you are fitting a new boot cut the old off if not just get the clips off and pull the boot back.
Did you take the shaft out from the wheel hub end too ?
the axles are retained in the diff by a spring clip it is usually not that uasy to release the axles but if you use a small tyre lever between the diff housing and the cv housing and do so gently they should come out.
you can purchase a Haynes Manuel at your local auto parts store they have more detail but hose axles are tricky they have a keeper that locks them into place so they dont pop out while you are driving you really need more leverage than a screwdriver
Support the left axle tube with a jack stand. Remove the wheel tire assembly. If you have disk brakes remove the caliper assembly. If you have drum brakes on the rear remove the brake drum. Then remove the rear cover plate from the differential. Rotate the ring gear until you find the cross shaft bolt. Remove the bolt. Then remove the shaft and roll the spider gears out. Push the axle end in from the end of the tube on the outside. Remove the "C" clip from the end of the axle. Slide the axle out of the housing and then you have access to the old seal. Pop the seal out and install the new seal. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Be sure to fill the differential when your done.
Yes ,it should just pop off.Have someone pull a little on it while you tap on the axle.There is an inside shaft that the outer shaft slides onto and there is a c-clip holding the two together. Sometimes the inner shaft pulls out with the outer axle if the clip doesnot release.If this happens you'll have to be carefull putting the inner shaft back in,because there is a washer at the end that may fall down and the axle willnot go back in.There is a pilot bearing at the end inside that the tip of the inner axle goes into and just before it is where the washer is.