An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 1993 Camry Check Engine Light
Therre is no DTC code "5". The DTCs start at 12. If the knock sensor (there are actually 2) was bad, you would have an acceleration issue. The knock sensor changes the timing of the spark to eliminate detonation, or "pinging". Do you have a "Ping" condition/valve rattle on acceleration?
To reset the light, open the hood, remove the 15 amp EFI fuse for 5 minutes. Replace it, and start the car and drive it until it reaches operating temperature. If the light comes back on instantly, you have a bad sensor or a bad wire.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Well, that's the check engine light I think. It is saying something is not normal. You can read out a trouble code to give you an idea of why it is on. Turn the ignition on, but engine stopped, and with a piece of wire bridge terminals TE1 and E1 in the service terminal box, at one rear corner of the engine compartment.
The check engine light will then blink. A steady blink 4 times per sec is "all normal".
Trouble codes are 2 digits, and these will be blinked - first digit - pause - second digit - repreat.
So the oxygen sensor fail code (a common one) is 21, and will show 2 blinks - pause - 1 blink - repeat.
I would check for fuel,(pressure and injector pulse), spark, and compression, before checking any codes. Lack of any of these basics can result in codes, and then you waste alot of time chasing a symptom, instead of the actual problem.If more people followed basic diagnostics, which always come back to these three basics, rather than chasing codes first,they would find no starts much more quickly.
First you need to find out what the fault code is that is making the check engine light come on. To do this, locate the diagnostic connector under the hood. It will be a black rectangular connector approx 50mm X 25mm with Diagnostic written on the cover. Open the cover and on the inside of the cover will be a diagram of the connections and their different labels. Locate pins labelled TE1 and E1. Switch on the ignition switch without starting the engine and with a small jumper wire bridge between pin TE1 and pin E1. Observe the check engine light on the dash and you will notice that it will be flashing. Read the diagnosis code as indicated by the number of flashes that this light makes. Each code will be displayed by first blinking the first digit of the code, then a pause and blink the second digit of the code. For example, Code 52 (knock sensor signal) will flash 5 times, pause and then flash 2 times, then a longer pause before it goes onto the next fault code if there is another one. Once it has gone through all the stored fault codes it will go through the sequence again starting at the first fault code again. Due to the many different fault codes that can be obtained it would be better to post another question for the fault code obtained. Good luck!
How did you try to obtain the codes? Did you short pins E1 and Te1 in the grey connector under the hood?
When the light comes back on, short the above pins, and get back to us.
Without seeing the codes, I would venbture a guess that you first consider a good tune-up, and use Toyota plugs only. Any other manufacturer will not work very well. I see this every day, new plugs, and the engine runs poor. Toyota plugs fixes it right up. The heat ranges are diffferent in Toyota plugs.
to obtain best results you have to use a timing light, but for emergency use this method: locate the data link connector and jump te1 and e1 , start engine, loose distribuitor bolts and turn distribuitor to left for ****** or right to advance, if ****** so much ,then have loose power, if advance so much then stalls and overheating engine
i have a 93 toyota camry and going down the road just giving it a little gas it will shut down. it will run great setting their but get to go no more then 20 mph driving me crazy can afford to get a pro but i need to know how to do the check engine light obd two will not do it help going crazy
There is usually a diagnostic box when u raise the bonnet. It is located at the passenger side, close to the body of the vehicle. If u open it, u will notice that there r 2 points E1 & TE1. Bridge those two and observe how the engine light flashes, ie how often after pauses. The blink between pauses represents a digit. Remember it and tell me what number u ended up with
Open the hood. Locate a small grey box by the firewall, roughly 1.5 x 1.5 inches. It has a cap that will lift up, but it will not come off. Under the cap, located the terminals E1 and Te1. Using a standard paper clip, "jump" E1 and Te1 together. Turn the key on. Obnserve the check engine light; it will flash, pause and flash again. Count the flashes.
Examples: 2 flashes/pause/4 flashes is code "24"
1 flash/pause/5 flashes is code "15"
Get the codes & get that info back to me so that I will be able to assist you with your issue further.