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1. I would not be concerned because if there was a failure in the ABS you would definitely get an ABS warning light and the ABS and most likely the stability control/traction control systems (with added warning lights) will all switch off .
2. You can test if the ABS is operational. On a very quiet damp surface, straight, wide road( with NO other cars around), apply your brakes hard from a very low speed - up to 20 mph ONLY driving in a straight line - until the car stops. The front brakes should attempt to lock up under hard braking and if the ABS is operational you will feel it kick in and the brake pedal will pulsate as the ABS constantly allows brake pressure and then releases it to prevent the wheels from locking up on the damp road. If the ABS does not kick in be ready to release the brake pedal quickly to allow the wheels to rotate so you can steer the car safely. Without the ABS the front wheels should begin to lock up on the damp road surface due to the low level of tire grip. ONLY test this at very low speed and ONLY when driving in a straight line on a straight section of wide road with no other vehicles around.
You still have air in the brake system and this becomes evident when the operation of the booster allows the pedal to do down as it is compressing the air in the lines more efficiently than what you can do with your foot. Try starting the bleeding procedure but undoing the lines at the master cylinder and priming the unit first to get the air out of both sides of the unit. Tighten the lines and with the help of a assistant start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. Booster failure will result in no assistance or engine stopping from a massive vacuum leak when the valves are opened. The abs is just a motor driven pump that supplies pressure to the brake system when the wheel sensors come into operation otherwise the brake pedal pressure is operating through the ABS unit to the brakes. (An ABS is only there to keep the brake pressure constant as the sensor opens and closes a valve to stop the wheel skidding . If it is not working then pressure from the pedal may bleed back leaving you with no brakes.)
Dodge used an ABS system for 2 years that didn't have a vacuum booster. Instead it used ABS pressure from the pump motor for the power brakes. This is the system you have. The ABS pump is mounted on top of the transmission. Is the pump running when the pedal is hard to push? Sometimes the pressure sensor in the ABS module will go bad and the pump won't run. You will get a hard pedal and the ABS light and the BRAKE lights will be on. The code in the ABS control module will be LOW BRAKE ACCUMULATOR PRESSURE.
The "pulsating" you refer to is Normal for a vehicle with ABS (Anti-Lock Brake Systems). It keeps the vehicle braking in a straight line and monitors each wheel with a sensor as to how fast it's turning while braking. The "pulsations" you feel is the ABS Computer turning each individual brake on and off to prevent a lock-up or skid. Perhaps if you road test the vehicle and apply your brakes lightly as in coming up on a stop sign in a residential neighborhood, you'll feel what you consider to be, "normal braking." Pulsations usually come at higher speeds and as to how much pressure you're putting on the brake pedal. You're safer than most now knowing that braking, even in snow, rain or gravel, that your vehicle will stop in a straight line instead of sliding to one side or the other.
If unhappy with ABS Braking, you can always remove the fuse to the ABS computer rendering it inoperative, so you have both choices as to what you'd like to do, right here.
the red brake light tells you you are low on fluid or that your parking brake is engaged....the abs light tells you your anti lock braking system is malfunctioning. get the car up to 40mph and SLAM on the brake pedal. the pedal should pulsate and the wheels should as well. if the wheels lock up and you slide to a stop, your antilockbrake system is malfunctioning and you should have a certified mechanic check it out......tires plus and midas both do free brake inspections.......
when your bearings start going bad two things happen first the ring gear that the abs reads the wheel speed moves to where it doesnt get a reading so that would probly be the abs light and second the flexing in the rotor will tend to colapse the brake piston leaving extra gap between the piston and the brake pad you might be able to confirm this by doing small short pumps and see if the pedal improves and it stops better i suggest replacing the bearings in pairs if you continue to drive the vehicle you run the chance of ruining the calipers hope this helps