I have a 93 Ford Escort Manuel, 1.9 L engine 4 door sedan. This car runs great if you don't drive to far or fast. If I get out on the interstate for more than 15 minutes/over 50 mph, it accelerates slowly on its own. I can press the brake to get it to stop, but when I push in the clutch, the RPM gage starts rising as the engine revs. The only way to stop the RPM’s from rising is to let the clutch out, and then it will go. This takes some talent when you’re stopped at light, as you have to let the clutch out slightly to bring down the RPMs and press the brake so the car don’t take off. I’m not sure if this makes since, but the two questions I have are: Why does it do this when I drive it for a while and not just driving back at forth to work? It’s seems to do it when I get the car above 50 mph for over 15 minutes. You don’t really notice that it is doing it until you stop or push in the clutch. The other question I have is why it stops when letting out the clutch. Normally these problems are the throttle cable sticking, or the foot petal sticking, but both have been checked and I have no idea how to fix this problem. The other question is why does it not do it the next day? It will do this, then I’ll park it at home and the next morning the car is back to normal. It’s when it gets hot and up to high speeds for duration, it just starts doing it. Even if I turn the car off and wait an hour, it will still do it. But if it sits for extended period, long enough to completely cool and fluids settle, it will not do it until I get on the interstate again. I have been driving it for 2 years like this, because I rarely get out on the interstate. It rarely does it where I drive. However, I will be moving somewhere I will be driving a lot more and don’t want to deal with it. Any guesses as to what this might be?
Check the idle speed motor
SOURCE: New Sparkplugs, Now Trouble
there are a number of cars that dont like any kind of platinum plug check for bad plug wires get a squirt bottle with plain water and spray a nice mist on the wires while running and listen and look for arching if i remember correctly grand ams have aluminum heads and have instructions stating that the engine must be cool before removing spark plugs or risk warping the head
SOURCE: Revving after a complete stop
MAY BE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT, WEAK TRANNY WHICH FORD IS KNOWN FOR, THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, OR BAD TORQUE CONVERTER. DO YOU HAVE ANY "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHTS ON? IF YOU DO THAN IT IS AN ELECTRICAL OR SENSOR PROBLEM. IF NOT THAN IT IS A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANNY PARTS, TORQUE CONVERTER, OR LINKAGE PROBLEM
SOURCE: Engine runs rough after about ten minutes /idles really low
Just trowing some suggestions out there, but, I would check the idle air control valve (solenoid) or the throttle position sensor. If they check out then my last guess would be the map sensor or the vaccuum to the map sensor. Hope I was able to help. Best wishes.
SOURCE: 1997 Suburban 4x4 5.7L Transmission whines until it shifts
You rear planetary set is worn from a restricted cooler.
SOURCE: Engine revs up to 3000-4000 rpm all by itself
THERE IS A TEMPERATURE SENSOR ON MOTOR WHICH CAUSES THIS PROBLEM... USUALLY IT SHOWS A NEGATIVE TEMP READING WHICH CONFUSES THE COMPUTER CAUSING IT TO REV UP....HAVE THE ENGINE DIAGNOSED ON A SCANNER....GOOD LUCK...
126 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×