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Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
Engaging in the top third of pedal travel isn't unusual.
Clutch drag can be caused by a worn or broken diaphragm, damaged pressure plate, worn or damaged withdrawal mechanism or contamination of the driven plate, among other things...
There are two other causes of clutch drag worth considering - rusted or damaged first motion shaft splines or a bad clutch pilot bearing, if fitted.
In all cases the transmission will have to be removed for access.
It sounds like the clutch is close to being worn out as the pressure plate is not gripping the clutch plate with sufficient force when power is applied. Before you consider replacing any thing, first check the clutch free travel adjustment because as the clutch plate wears the free travel does decrease and if there is no free travel, then there will be some releasing action on the pressure plate allowing cluth plate slip. Hydraulic setups are usually self adjusting but you should check the free travel of the clutch pedal which should be about 3/8 to 1/2 inch measured at the pedal rubber. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.
For a cable setup there should at least 1/8 inch of free travel of the cable before it starts to move the clutch fork on the outside of the bell housing. To adjust, hold the operating fork so that the release bearing is touching the fingers of the pressure plate. You will need to turn the cable adjuster so there is only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of free travel of the cable where it attaches to throw out fork before it starts to move the fork when the pedal is depressed. If all adjustments are correct and clutch is still slipping then the pressure plate diaphragm spring has lost its tension and /or the clutch plate has worn down to the rivets. Either way you will have to do a complete clutch rebuild.
You have to bleed the system again they can be a pain in the b@TT, also get a second person to operate the clutch and watch to see if the lever moves, if it does pull off the rubber and make sure you have the Y on the pivot ball inside the transmission. And if you don't get enough throw adjust the clutch rod on the clutch pedal by removing the pin and loosen the lock nut and make it longer by unscrewing the shaft. You want a half inch of free play at the top of the pedal the you want the clutch to catch about 3/4 of the way down. Also if you try to put it in gear does it grind the gears? Also did you put the clutch plate in backwards this is a common mistake even for a pro who gets interrupted by a phone call or a good-looking gal walking by, if ya need more suggestions let me know by posting to this comment. Avid101