Question about 1989 Volvo 240

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Brakes bad even after replacing pads/rotors

Front brakes were good. Back brakes were horrible. New pads and rotors. Was full of fluid, no leaks. But even with new pads and rotors, pedal all the way to the floor.

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You may need to bleed your brakes

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

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You need to replace the master cylinder. If all else is good and the petal goes to the floor, that's really about all it could be.

Posted on Nov 09, 2008


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Changing rear brakes on 2000 lincoln LS

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Why squeaky brakes on jeep

front or rear.??? my guess front.... wild guess.
if car has pads with the noise makers this is normal and the early warning.
if pads are thick (why not look first???) and squeal.?
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  2. or has missing anti-squeal shims on pad due bad mech. serv.
  3. or not using anti-squeal glue on back side of new pads.
  4. if in a perfect world they can in fact squeal.
if you have new rotors and pads and all above is good. they may not squeal. the rotors can be tad bump and the pads will resonate to this rotor surface, its harmless this. only annoying.

other factors, why not do a full inspection of the pads and rotors
first and not just guess and wonder.
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this is what we call SOP
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2001 Montero brakes. R&R rear rotor, pads & calipers but the brake pedal travel is still very slow to "reset". I am certain my front's need new rotors, pads and possibly calipers due to the...

Disk brakes are automatically self adjusting. If you have too much travel in the pedal, bleed the brakes. Let us know if you need the procedure.

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Brakes are going to the floor most of the way checked rear brakes and they are still good bleed them and problem still there

Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.

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Where do you put the brake fluid on this car? Because, my car is making a grinding sound when I put my foot on the brake.

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I have a slow brake fluid loss. I think it may from the master cylinder. Are there any seals in the lines that go into the master cylinder unit.

no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad

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If your pads are completely gone then you may have damaged the drums if you still have any pads left or shoes if they are drum brakes then you still need to have your drums checked out for the proper size to still be there for the brakes to function properly. You won't know until you look at them or are shown them by a pro. who has measured and found them to be beyond reuse! If you had leaks then you will need to repair the brake calipers or the wheel cylinders depending on which system you have drum or disc they are different!!! Hope this helps someway !!
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Did you buy factory pads or get cheap aftermarket pads? If aftermarket did you get the ceramic? The cheap aftermarket ones tend to squeal pretty bad. Like the last comment on here, you should have your rotors turned whenever you change the pads.

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Front brake pads for 1997 ford ecscort encore

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0

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Nothing more special than a basic metric socket set, a good size C-clamp, and maybe a screwdriver. Remove the wheel and unbolt the caliper from the hub (two bolts on the backside, I believe 17mm). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Slide the caliper off the rotor and remove the outer pad. Use the C-clamp against the inner pad to compress the pistons back into the caliper to provide clearance for the new, thicker pads to clear the rotor. Do the same for the outer pistons. Install the new pads, remount the caliper, and put the wheel back on. Replace the fluid cap, pump up the brake pedal for pressure, then take it out and bed the pads in with several back to back stops from 30mph with steady, even pressure on the pedal. You'll be good to go at that point.

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