To Start... I have just aquired this vehicle recently and had noticed that the front brakes worn low and the rotors were in need of replacement.... The car had a slight shimmy which I assumed was from the brake pads slightly catching the worn rotors.... but yesterday.... I was on the interstate doin 75 and when I starting descending a hill the car naturally sped up to about 80... at this point I felt a strong kick and for a second a total loss of power... then another strong kick and I had power again once I had decelerated back below 75mph.... any idea what could be causing this?
Also the Car seems to be building pressure and pushing alot of oil out around the dust cover located by the starter and transmission... when this happens the water in my radiator and reservoir will begin to boil and pour out.... is there a possible link between the to leaks (oil and coolant)? They seem to only happen in unison...
No oil or coolant leaks when idling or town driving... but only during 70+ speeds and only after the kick and loss of power...
I am supposed to be driving this vehicle the 110 miles back home in 3 days from now and I would greatly appreciate any help on this subject....
Thank you for your time,
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Re: 1994' Buick LeSabre Stutter
Oil and coolant leaks happening at the same time is not good!!
My first impression is a blown head gasket. You need to have the compression checked on each cylinder. If it is a blown head gasket. one of the cylinders will have a low reading. As far as the strong "kicks" and loss of power, it could be related to the oil/water problem. If you can't get the problem solved before you have to head home, I would take it SLOW and EASY going home.
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It is possible that the broken tab is your problem because the tabs keep the hardware from moving, especially when you apply the brakes. To determine if this is the case, remove the tire,brake caliper, brake pads, and hardware. Put one of the lug nuts(or two if needed) back on to hold the rotor in place. Spin the rotor by hand and listen for that chirping sound. If you don't hear it, the hardware is the problem. If you can still hear it, check that metal plate that protects the back side of the rotor to make sure its not bent and rubbing against rotor. Also check that nothing is rubbing on the trans-axle(if its front-wheel drive). If all is well in these two places, the only thing left that spins in that area is the wheel bearing. They usually make more of a grinding or roaring sound but sounds can be tricky.. I am a mechanic for a car rental company and often have to diagnose problems by the sound they make. I hope this info is helpful.
FRONT BRAKE ROTORS:
Discard Thickness30.7 mm (1.209 in.)
Lateral Runout (New)0.06 mm (0.002 in.)
Minimum Thickness after Refinish31.08 mm (1.224 in.)
Rotor Diameter 15 inch Wheels (New)278.0 mm (10.9 in.)
Rotor Diameter 16 inch Wheels (New)303.0 mm (11.9 in.)
Rotor Thickness (New)32.20 mm (1.267 in.)
Thickness Variation (New)0.025 mm (0.001 in.)
The loud grinding noise may be due to worn pads or brake shoes. I suggest you have all brakes on the vehicle inspected for worn pads, shoes, and possibly worn rotors. The ABS light may indicate uneven brake functioning, so for safty sake, have the brake system checked out.
Depends.... look through the wheel and see if it looks like the front. (rotor) if it does then it has DISC brakes, If you canrt see anything, then it has DRUM. most likely it has drum brakes in the rear.
Actually, changing the front rotors is not that difficult and they are relatively in-expensive. Anytime you change the pads on the front of your vehicle i would recommend having the rotors resurfaced or replaced. Especially if you are getting a brake pedal pulse when applying the brakes. Here is a step by step guide that will help you in removing your Front rotors.
Sensors in this vehicle pertain to the wear sensor on the front brake pad.It is a protruding metal finger on the pad itself, which will produce a "metal to metal" high pitched "scraping" squeel once pad wear permits this finger to touch.This worns you there is a minimal amount of pad thickness remaining and approaching a serious "metal to metal" condition which will wipe out rotors and more.
Not unless the rotors are worn out past their minimum thickness. Go to http://www.hmaservice.com/ and register (vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you'll have access to technical information (manuals, wiring diagrams, service bulletins, etc) about your vehicle.