I tryed jumping the car but i put the positive on the negative and the negative on the positve i have no pawer at all does anyone know where the main fuse for the car is and how does it look is it a small fuse or a big metal fuse
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if wont jump battery has internal short and is bad replace with good battery get cheap ohm meter to test alternator out put. install battery ck voltage start engine ck voltage should rear 13-14 volts if not charging will read battery voltage with steady voltage drop. running with neg. cable unhooked can cause damage from voltage spike.
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or
Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake
while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will
try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30
minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and
disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base
In the fuse panel under the hood of the vehicle on the passenger side there is a "main" 80 amp fuse that pretty much is your main power source from the batery. Below is a diagram of the fuse layout. I marked the fuse you need to check (number 30). Be glad it was there or you could have had some major electrical problems. I hope this helps you and good luck.
Connect the negative (-) to the black and the positive (+)to the red of the 'good' battery car, then connect the positive first and then finally the neg. to the frame of the vehicle that is being jumped, as far away from the battery as possible.
Remove in the opposite order after the car is successfully jumped.
put the positive ( red ) cable to the positive (+) terminal on the battery and the negative (black) to the negative (-) on the battery and do the same with the other end of the jumper cables to the donner car/battery making sure you connect positve to positive first then negative to negative
by running out any debris in your tank will get sucked into your fuel pump. REplacing the fuel pump usually means removing the tank. You can try replacing the fuel filter first its much easier and cheaper. The filter is attached to your fuel line between the tank and the engine, usually in the frame. TAkes about 15 minutes to replace.
Fig. 1: The electric fuel pump has an in-tank design
Disconnect wiring from the tank.
Remove the ground wire retaining screw from under the body.
Disconnect all hoses from the tank.
Support the tank on a jack and remove the retaining strap nuts.
Lower the tank and remove it.
the position of the filter for replacement. Support the pump with one
hand and grasp the filter with the other. Rotate the filter in one
direction, then pull off of the pump. Discard the filter.
Disconnect the fuel pump connector, on wagons it will not be necessary.
On all models excluding wagons:
the sending unit on a bench upside down, then pull the fuel pump
downwards to remove from the mounting bracket. Tilt the pump outwards
and remove from the pulsator.
On wagons proceed as follows:
Disconnect the negative terminal nut and lead (black) from the pump.
Disconnect the positive lead (gray) from the pump, then loosen the coupler clamps.
Make sure your cables positive and negative are in good shape. If they are, remove the negative cable and use a test light to jump across the neg. terminal to the cable. If there is a power draw, the test light will illuminate. At this point, remove the fuses one at a time until the test light turns off. What ever that particular fuse goes to is the circuit with the power draw. Hope this helps.