Question about Mazda MAZDA6

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My 2006 mazda 6s has a 6speed automatic transmission. But whenever I brake and the transmission shifts back, it gives a big "bang" when it downshifts at the fourth gear. What might be wrong?

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The first thing to check would be the transmission fluid level. Typically checked with engine warm, idling, and in PARK. If the fluid level is OK, and the fluid is a pinkish red in color, you may need a computer update. I believe there were some recall 'flash' updates for this problem. If the fluid is brown or smells burnt, you should have the tranny fluid changed. Make sure you use the correct fluid type if you add or change fluid!! Also check on the mazda6club.com forum for similar issues. The tranny and computer should be covered for at least 60K on the warranty coverage.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I own a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe and my transmission is stuck in manual mode it won't go past number one I can't get it back over into automatic mode and I want to know what might be the problem


The big question here is how did it work before it got stuck the transmission I mean .
Did it shift OK before it got stuck if no you have a big problem with your trany .
If it worked good then look at the key switch it locks the shift lever so you can't shift it with your foot on the brake or any linkages connecting to this system its all on the steering collum or a linkage to the transmission

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My check engine light came on along with the "AT" on my 2005 Mazda 6s automatic. Then the transmission was stuck in 3rd gear. I can only put it into park and reverse. Once i shift to drive, it...


suggest that you check your transmission fluid post haste please. you may only need to add transmission fluid to your car. also,if you have to add the fluid,where did your fluid leak? check for leaks under your car when parked. you may need transmission fluid and filter change,suggest that you do this with new filter and add lucas transmission treatment to the fluid change also. you'll need to purchase this yourself,unless you have a mechanic in the family that can do it for you.if not i suggest you find a mechanic you trust,then tell him,or,her to add this to your tranny fluid change. also suggest while the mechanics there at the transmission to check the modulator valve on the transmission,and the vacum line that operates it. just a hint. thanks for choosing fixya.com

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I accidentally dropped one of the mounting bolts for the starter into the flywheel bellhousing opening on my Mazda 6S (6-speed atomatic). What is the best approach to removing the bolt from the bell...


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Other than that the only solution is unbolting the engine from the transmission and engine mounts and shifting it the inch you need to get the bolt out. This will require an engine hoist of course.

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I also have a 2009 Outlander Sportronic transmission with a V6 engine.
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Now that the cold weather is upon us here in Canada, whenever I accelarate normally (not like a teenager) the transmission takes quite a bit of time to shift into second... If I rev up the engine (quick take off) it seems to help but the shifting of gears is not as smooth as I would expect it (mildly slips and kicks into second)...

The worst is when come to a complete stop ... then the transmission kicks coming down from the higher gears???

I read somewhere that this is because this transmission is a CVT type and is learning my driving habits in order to adjust itself so the vehicle becomes more fuel efficient... Not sure but if the trany is computer controlled then it must be poorly writen program...
I'm taking the car in to the dealer and will write back on the diagnostic they give me ...

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Mazda 92 B2200 Auto Pickup Will not shift from Park to Drive


I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that when you park the car, you pull up the hand (park) brake, shift from drive straight to park and then take your foot off the foot brake and the car moves slightly as it transfers the weight of the car from the foot brakes to, in your case, the transmission rather than the park brake.
Most people do.

When you do this, you're usually putting the weight of the car onto a small lever engaging notches on the drive shaft in the transmission, not the hand brake. The hand brake's designed to hold the car, the lever isn't, it's there just-in-case.
Take a look at http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission5.htm to see how flimsy this part is.
  • To fix the problem, you'll probably have to get this part in your transmission replaced. Fortunately it's the least significant part of the transmission so don't let them shaft you just because it's part of an automatic transmission.

  • To fix what caused the problem, you need your hand brake / park brake adjusted at the handle. You'll probably find that it adjusts at the other end (inside the rear wheel hubs) whenever you reverse.

For what it's worth, to avoid doing this damage to automatic transmissions whenever I'm stuck in one, I shift to Neutral then take my foot off the foot brake, then the car moves as it's weight shifts from the foot brake to the park brake which I often haven't pulled hard enough. Only when, in neutral, the car is stationary without the foot brake do I put it in park.
In Australia, it became illegal a couple of years ago to not be in the driver's seat when the engine's running. My understanding is that this was because, when the engine's running, sometimes older Automatic transmissions damaged in this way can shift out of Park. This is believed to be what has happened when you see unoccupied cars reversing in circles on "wildest police video" programs on TV. I also heard of some Borg-Warner automatic transmissions fitted to 80s model Ford Falcons (common in Australia), 70s model German saloons, which were particularly prone to Park failing to hold the car on a slope. I drove one for many years in a '75 BMW 528 in which some of it's other drivers developed the same habit.
Similarly, in my own car, I don't take my foot off the clutch until I've taken it off the brake without the car moving. Though the local Road & Traffic Authority regulation states "First gear if you're facing uphill, Reverse if you're facing downhill" I do the opposite because whatever damage might be done to panels will be cheaper than what would be done to the engine if the hand brake failed and it's not going to make much difference in slowing down a rolling car, especially with this one.
Mazda BA Astina V6.

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