I recently had my brake pads replaced. The rotors and hardware were fine. I noticed that the driver side rear was not releasing as the wheel was very hot and the gas millege was being affected. I had the pins lubed and they were free to move. Now I hear a woooo sound that varies with speed, the drivers side rear wheel is hotter than the others and the rotor appears to have new wear on it. What could be the problem?
The problem is likely to be the hardware wasn't as fine as you were led to believe. The brake is clearly not fully releasing and producing the all-important couple of thousandths of an inch clearance between the rotor and friction material.
Possible reasons are a build up of scale in the pad carrier and if stainless steel shim bearing surfaces are used it is often between the shims and the carrier.
Sometimes the caliper dust cover has been allowing water and dirt access to the piston and pressing the piston back into the caliper without first cleaning often results in a sticky caliper shortly after the pads have been replaced.
The parking brake could be badly or improperly adjusted, or it could be a perished brake hose.
A brake that has been overheating for a while is likely to shorten the life of the wheel bearing...
SOURCE: driver's side wheel knocking during a slow sharp turn
I had a simular problem, it turned out to be a CV axle. Check all the inner and outer boots for breakage. It also may be the front differential. Most subaru owners or garages (except a dealer) don't know about the dipstick to check the gear oil in the front differential of an automatic and they end up going dry(diff on a manuel tranie is lubed with the same gear oil as the tranie and usualy dont have this problem). The automatic transmission fluid dipstick is on the driverside near the break cylinder and the gear oil dipstick is on the passenger side of the tranie just above where the CV axle attaches to the tranie(its the same yellow as the oil cap and has a finger loop. If the fluid has not been checked in a long time the stick may be stuck in the tube. If the stick is not reading when you pull it out you will want to drain the old diff fluid to remove any metal shavings produced from running the diff dry and refill with 80w90 gear oil. Good luck, hope it helps.
SOURCE: squeking and grinding brakes
use oem brakes,nothing else comes close,everything you need comes in the brake pads kit,rotors are better quality metal and more vents to cool,rember you get what you pay for
SOURCE: how often do brake rotors need to be replaced?
They will need replacing when they are at the minimum thickness, which is stamped on the rotor in most cases. If they are rusted, they will need replacement anyhow. you may just call a few repair shops and ask for a quote on pads and rotors. Asking a quote for brakes is hard, because they dont have the car to inspect it, and its hard because nobody quotes the same parts, apples to apples. the cheapest is not the best deal, you get what you pay for. Get good quality brakes, your life depends on it. if it was me I would use dealer parts.
SOURCE: NOISE IN THE FRONT LEFT WHEEL ON A 1999 SUBARU
if the front brake pads,rotor and more importantly the caliper were all installed correctly, this noise is probably a front hub bearing that is failing. they will start a humming noise and then a roaring/growling noise the worse they get. is the noise rotational? by that it will get louder and higher in pitch as you increase the vehicle speed. get it checked out right away to avoid possible further damage.
SOURCE: Hi. The driver side headlight is dim while the
The driver side headlight is dim. This is caused by loose
ground contact of the headlight ground terminal. Have
a check on this by tightening it up or reconnecting to
good ground (chassis).
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