How hard is it to change a timing belt in a 99 chrysler 300m?

SOURCE: chrysler 300m engine knocking after replacing plugs and wires??

absolutely NOT, to many unknown miles, if you are dead set on it, at least take it somewhere and have a compression test done and do this in person! you can buy that car all day long at dealer auctions from 400 to 800 dollars, a new, or used engine and the labor will be in the four figures, using professional people, the old saying is, if it sounds to good to be true then it most likely is! take your time and at this time in or world i know you will find something that will give you much more and better service, hope we helped, and good luck to u..

SOURCE: AC belt on 1999 Chrysler 300M

First off you have one of these possibilities for belt routing .. but basically you need to relieve pressure on the tensioner pulley then slip the belt off and do the same with new

SOURCE: I need a free owners manual for a 2000 chrysler 300M

There will be a few minor differences between the 2000 and 2004, but for the most part, you can use the 2004 manual as a reference. Since it is illustrated, you can confirm visually when you are taking on repairs. I have owned a 2000 300m for several years. Might I recommend you visit 300mclub.org? I am a member there and have learned a ton about 300m's.

SOURCE: I need a timing belt diagram for a 2005 chrysler sebring

My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway. You may want to Print the Diagrams for future use.

CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams you will need.

If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Again my apologies...
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2005/make/chrysler/model/sebring/2005_chrysler_sebring_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

SOURCE: headlight bulb replacement on chrysler 300m

Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2 high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners manual


A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is also recommended. *optional



Tools required

Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Extension 12"
Large Flat screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
Flash-light
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit

Surgical gloves

Battery terminal cleaner * optional



Step 1:

First take off the plastic cover that cover that is across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers to pull them off.


Gently take the plastic cover off and set it aside.


Step 2:

Next you will see 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.


Step 3:
In the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out



Step 4:
Locate a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step


Step 5:

Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment. You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the fender.

Step 6:
Pull on the plastic fender in the front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to be repeated for each side.

Step 7:
Locate 8mm bolt heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head - they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers

Step 8:
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.

Step 8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it. Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.

Step 9:
Note the position of the connector before you do anything. Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table

Step 10:
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter clockwise this time.

Step 11:
Using the 4" flat screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.

Step 12:
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the bulbs light correctly

Step 13:
Gently push back the front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender. Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the 12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and tighten. Do this for both sides

Step 14:
Using the ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides

Step 15:
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly. Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.

Step 16:
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1 and remount it using the 6 push pins.


Voila - you have changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.

Estimated time:
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins

If you found this helpful, a quick note to the author George and Anna at [email protected] would be appreciated.