Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Clutch slip (automatic transmission)

When lever selected on drive mode,it's seems as if the clutch is sliping, and the vehicle never moves, but after a while , it's start's moving ,but very slow and then stop. But when applying 4x4 at the moment there was no movement, after a while,it's moves again with high amount of torque and then stoped.

Posted by on

  • akkcom Nov 08, 2008

    Thanks for your assistance, I had already done the same thing, I got a good output by doing so. Now the vehicle is moving, but not changing correctly/properly. But what I found out now is that, the 4x4 is on (all four wheels are driving), even when the 4x4 (lever) is on the indicate 4-All time position, its still running on 4 wheels.

    If I placed the 4x4 on 4 Low, the vehicle seams to be running but with few gear changing when on high way, and with good amount of torque. But my question now is ! why is it driving on 4 low with more torque/power with few gear changing instead of 4-All Times position, which is the correct position for the lever to be at all time when driving on normal condition,but still driving on 4x4 even when on 4-All time position, the vehicle is moving, but you need to accelerate very high for the vehicle to move, and it's also moving with less torque/power. Can any one helps with this kind of problems.

  • akkcom Nov 10, 2008

    also having a problem with rear differential, what I found-out in the rear differential is, when I jacked the vehicle up, trying to turn the wheels by hand, they are very strong in rotating. So I decided to removed the main shaft/propeller shaft for me to see if it's the transmission having problem, but not at all, even though when I removed the shaft, the rear wheel's where very strong. is this normal for the rear wheel's to be like that(strong to rotate).

    Also When Auxiliary lever is on 4x4 full time position, is it possible for all for wheels to rotate when on drive mode.



×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Jeep Master
  • 6,982 Answers

Remove the transmission pan. Check fluid for burnt smell, water contamination, (on 2pc fill tubes water can get in) debris (either clutch material or metal) Change filter and refill. If problem gets substantially better, change oil again in about a week. If problem remains the same and there was a lot of debris or oil really smelled bad, you likely have burned clutches and need a rebuild. Compare smell and colour with another vehicle... trans oil never smells really "good".

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • Richard Scordino Nov 08, 2008

    as far as I know, there is no control connection between trans and transfer case (except that the trans feeds transfer case power through its output shaft) though they are bolted together, they would work the same even if seperated and connected by a driveshaft. However, if the seperator seals have failed, then debris from the transmission can enter the transfer case and screw it up (but I'm not sure how much)
    Before you do more damage (trans is definitely out to lunch) have the trans rebuilt or replace it. At the same time, open up the transfer case and clean it out (if lots of miles on it, change the chain while your'e in there.


  • Richard Scordino Dec 11, 2008

    There are a couple of different front axles/controls on these puppies,,,, I would recommend that a shop takes a look at yours. Generally a vehicle can tell a tech more than you can verbalize, especially since your problem likely makes sense to you but is difficult to follow. A good diagnosis depends upon clear communication, especially when working on a complex problem.... Good Luck!!!

×

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Why holden astra convertible clutch stuck in park


what exactly do you mean by a "clutch stuck in park"
Park is in automatic transmissions and clutch is for manual
Take it to a service center or have a mobile mechanic come to determine the exact fault and get a quote to fix

Jul 04, 2016 | 2004 Holden Astra Cabriolet

1 Answer

How do I know when my clutch needs replacing


Hello Joseph....you will feel the clutch slipping. As your driving along at a low speed ...accelerate quickly...If the RPM's go up faster than the vehicles moves forward...your clutch is slipping and needs further attention. A clutch will also produce a rather strong odor when it slips as it will generate a lot of heat.

If your vehicle starts and will not move forward at all....make sure the vehicle moves. While not running, in neutral..push it a few feet...should glide easily...if it doesn't find the wheel(s) that are binding...Is the emergency brake applied or jammed? Are one of the vehicles brakes jammed? If everything is turning smoothly and the engine starts and allows you to depress the clutch pedal and select a gear without a grinding noise... but will not move the vehicle forward, make sure the clutch is actually engaging by observing the linkage and clutch arm.

May 07, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Will only pull in 4th gear and in 4 wheel drive


Automatic, or Standard? Last time transmission serviced? If auto, check fluid, if smells burnt, get serviced. However,it sounds like a problem in the linkage/s from the shift lever to the transmission and 4wheel controls.

Jun 14, 2015 | 1992 Geo Tracker

1 Answer

How to remove the code p1589 with fcar scanner


MULTI-MODE MANUAL TRANSAXLE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
1. USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.
Note
Do not depress the brake pedal while performing the clamp position adjustment using an intelligent tester.
a. Prepare the vehicle:
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
d. Turn the intelligent tester ON.
e. Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Multi-Mode M/T / Utility / Parts Exchange.
f. Read the information.
g. Press the Next key.
h. Read the information.i. After checking the vehicle condition, press the Next key.
j. Read the information.
k. Press the Next key.
l. Read the information.m. Press the Next key.
n. On the Multi-Mode M/T / Utility screen, select Step 1 Clutch Position Adjustment (Clamp Position Adjustment).
o. Press the Next key.
p. Read the information.q. Press the Next key.
r. Complete Clutch Position Adjustment.
s. Turn the intelligent tester OFF.
t. Turn the ignition switch off.
u. Replace the malfunctioning parts.
Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .
2. WITHOUT USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.a. Prepare the vehicle.
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the DLC3
SST
09843-18040
c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG) with the brake pedal released.
d. Depress the brake pedal 7 times or more within 3 seconds.i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
e. Depress the brake pedal.
f. Shift the shift lever in the following sequence with the brake pedal depressed: N?E?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?E?N.
g. Release the brake pedal.
h. Depress the brake pedal again.i. The buzzer sounds at intervals of 0.5 seconds as follows (an interval of 2.5 seconds exists between each cycle).
Once when adjusting the clutch clamp position (one cycle)
Tech Tips
If the buzzer does not sound at this time, wait at least 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off. Then, perform the procedure from step
(a) again.
i. Depress the brake pedal 3 times or more within 2 seconds.
i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
j. Depress the brake pedal.
k. Shift the shift lever to the [-] position with the brake pedal depressed.
l. Release the brake pedal.
m. Complete clutch position adjustment.
n. Turn the ignition switch off and wait at least 10 seconds.
o. Disconnect the SST from terminals TC and CG of the DLC3.
p. Repair the malfunctioning parts.Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .

May 22, 2015 | 2009 Toyota Yaris

2 Answers

Drive train locked up while driving in 5th gear. Vehicle would not move unless clutch was engaged will in neutral.


Hi Tom:
If you're lucky, a linkage has become disengaged. Trace from the gearshift to the transmission.
What happens to the gearshift lever when you try to shift?
If it won't move and the linkage is not disconnected, try to manually move the shift levers where they enter the trans.
Also if you have a custom shifter it is possible that a pin has slipped.
Have fun chasing this one.

Mar 20, 2015 | 1990 Ford Bronco II

2 Answers

When i depreesed the clutch my truck is moving


If it has a hydraulic clutch it may low on fluid, check both brake and clutch fluid levels.

Sep 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vehicle dies when downshifting to first gear and also makes a squeling noise


Manual Transmission

  1. 1
    Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-1.jpg


  2. 2
    Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-2.jpg
  3. 3
    Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-3.jpg
550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-4.jpg
  • 2
    Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-5.jpg
  • 3
    Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-6.jpg
  • 4
    Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-7.jpg
  • 5
    Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-8.jpg
  • EditTips for preventing transmission damages

    • Avoid prolonged driving by slipping the clutch.
    • Avoid jerks and jolts while driving.
    • Avoid "riding the clutch", i.e. needlessly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
    • Never use clutch slipping for regulating the speed of a heavy truck!
    • Make sure the clutch of a manual transmission is fully pressed when shifting
    • Do not use excessive force when shifting a manual.
    • For rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles, avoid driving through places at the minimum of the vehicle's clearance.
    EditTips

    • Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
    • Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
    • Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
    • Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
    • Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
    • The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
    • The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
    • The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
    • There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
    • Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.

    Aug 23, 2013 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

    2 Answers

    Car slipping in uphill acceleration is it my tires or something more is wrong with it?


    Hi,
    If the engine is revving but your not going forward then it sounds like your clutch is slipping if it is a manual, or the clutch packs are worn if it is an automatic transmission. Either way the clutch or transmission will need to be repaired or replaced. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

    Apr 03, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

    1 Answer

    Hi On driving a Suzuki Vitara JLX 96 P Reg


    Sounds like a clutch problem to me.
    So, with the engine off, can you select all gears? If yes, your gearbox is probably OK.
    And now with the engine idling, can you select any gears with out crunching? If this is difficult, then try this next test in an area where movement forward or backwards won't be a problem.
    With the engine OFF, foot ON the clutch, the handbrake OFF, and in 1st gear, start the car. BE READY TO TURN IT OFF.
    If the car moved forward as you cranked the engine, then your clutch is not adjusted properly or has worn out. That is more-than-likely the smell you got before - burnt clutch disc from it slipping.
    You can drive it, but every time you want to start off, you'll have to turn the engine off, select 1st then start the engine. Accelerate slowly, making sure the revs don't rise faster that you're speeding up, and change gear by judging engine revs between gears.
    Don't keep driving it as it is, as you WILL have gearbox problems if you don't fix the clutch.

    Jan 18, 2010 | Suzuki Vitara Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    E4OD Trans stays in OD no matter where the shifter position is.


    Transmission Description The E4OD transmission is a fully automatic, electronically controlled, four-speed unit with a torque converter clutch. The main operating components of the E4OD transmission include a torque converter clutch, six multiple-disc friction clutches, one band, one sprag one-way clutch and two roller one-way clutches that provide for the desired function of three planetary gear sets. Transmission gear selection in the (D) range and converter clutch operation is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650). Operating conditions are relayed to powertrain control module by various sensors throughout the vehicle. The powertrain control module compares these conditions with electronically stored parameters and logically determines how the transmission should operate. A torque converter (7902) couples the engine to the transmission gearset via the input shaft (7017) and the torque converter impeller hub. The impeller hub provides engine rpm to the positive displacement pump. The flow from the pump is proportional to engine rpm, and excess pump capacity is exhausted back to the pump inlet. The input shaft transfers power into the transmission gearset. The power input is controlled by the application of the torque converter clutch, which is scheduled through the powertrain control module. The application of the piston plate effectively replaces the hydraulic coupling between the converter cover and the turbine with a mechanical coupling between the converter cover and the turbine hub. This mechanical coupling helps improve fuel economy and wide-open throttle performance by eliminating converter slip. Transmission shift selection and torque converter clutch operation are controlled by the PCM. They are calibrated to provide the optimal transmission state. This state is commanded to the transmission solenoid body. In the (D) range, automatic operation of all four gears is possible. The transmission control switch, located on the vehicle's shift lever disables overdrive operation and enables automatic operation through the first three gears. Whenever the ignition switch is turned on, the vehicle will automatically provide overdrive operation regardless of the switch position the last time the vehicle was running. Manual gear selection is available in the 1 and 2 range. Second gear is commanded when the gearshift selector lever is in the 2 range and when downshifted into the 1 range at speeds above approximately 56 km/h (35 mph) (for diesel 48 km/h [30 mph]). First gear is commanded in the 1 range at start-ups and when downshifted into 1 range below approximately 56 km/h (35 mph) (for diesel 48 km/h [30 mph]). Any reference to intermediate brake drum or direct clutch cylinder are one and the same.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    253d68f.gif
    I think this is your problem:

    Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM): Description: The programmable speedometer/odometer module receives input from the rear brake anti-lock sensor, which is mounted on the rear axle differential housing. The PSOM processes this input signal information and relays it to the powertrain control module and the speed control module. This signal tells the powertrain control module the vehicle speed in miles per hour (mph). Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control. Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, unexpected downshifts may occur at closed throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or engages only at wide-open throttle (WOT). May flash transmission control indicator lamp. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503

    Mar 21, 2009 | 1993 Ford F150 SuperCab

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Logo

    268 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Jeep Experts

    yadayada
    yadayada

    Level 3 Expert

    60667 Answers

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    21936 Answers

    Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte

    Level 3 Expert

    6811 Answers

    Are you a Jeep Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...