Question about 1993 Dodge Shadow
Now let me start by saying I just had my alternator replaced with a used one from a junk yard. The alternator has a 30 day guarantee, and I'm able to take it back.
But, I originally got the alternator, because my battery was being drained, and when I checked my alternator, it came up bad. I thought that it would solve the "check engine" light nonsense, but it didn't.
When I'm driving down the freeway, say I'm going about 65, sometimes my car will slow down, and it won't let me excelerate. It'll only let me go like 40 or 45... it'll act all sluggish, and then suddenly pick up speed again. I'm wondering what this problem could be? Anyone have any idea if it could be what's causing my check engine light to come on?
Also, I'm noticing that my battery gauge is in the negative side. But, not past the last line in negative. It's on the opposite side of the middle line between the 8 and the 18... I'm worried that it's too low, and paranoid that my alternator is going to die again or something.
I have taken my car to Auto Zone, and they were able to give me these codes:
41- Charging System excess or lack of field current.
21- O2 sensor circuit - voltage in neutral zone or above normal range.
33- Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted.
13- Map censor vacuum circuit - slow and or no change in map sensor input or out put.
52- Oxygen sensor voltage indicates lean during engine operation.
Those are what were given to be before I replaced my alternator, and before it drained the heck out of my battery.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I dread taking it to a garage as a last resort.
Without ever seeing a 91 dodge here is what to do ,start car and with engine running disconnect battery --if engine stops change altenator if it carries on running then altenator is ok,forget a/c reading as it most likely only needs regassing as their is a pressure valve/sensor that stops it from working if gas is low.now look for a split in any of the small rubber tubes that run between the cold air intake on air filter and and the inlet manifold ,then check for a sensor with a pipe on it that could be on the firewall as this is the switching module thats controling the coil spark and on a lot of older cars about the same age in europe this is where it is,intemediate stage of distributor/ electronic ignition compared to a year or so later of coil pack and full ECU ,if this thin small rubber tubing is porous or split on the end then the mapping will not change with enging revs throwing out the O2 sensor reading.this unit it the vacumn advance unit that used to be on the side of the distributor.the thing that had the points in???remember them
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
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