Question about 1999 Honda Accord
Thanks, I've replaced my distributor cap and rotor just a few years ago (when the car was ~100,000 miles), should I do this again? My car is now getting close to 140,000 miles. I've also heard that it may be the alternator that needs to be fixed, any ideas?
Before replacing -open up cap and clean contacts on button and cap- you are not putting enough miles on it to warrant changing these parts being changed.Fuel filter ever changed?
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Most chevy 5.3 do not use a cap and rotor. Most have single coil per spark plug and wire. Trace spark plug wires to coil usually above the valve cover.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Replace the coil. It is shorted out. I have changed quite a few coils for the exact same symptom.
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Posted on Jan 21, 2009
First I wasn't a party to this situation, so I cant say for sure if you were ripped off or not. I can tell you that the symptoms you were having and the repair does possibly match up. Your rotor though is part of the wheel assembly and has nothing to do with overheating, One thought is you may have had another issue they noticed while repairing your vehicle. I would definitely follow up with them and find out why your rotor was replaced:)
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
I have had good luck with Echlin caps and rotors that are from NAPA.
You are going to need to mark your spark plug wires so you can get them back on the new cap in the right place. Tape with numbers on it or what ever you can come up with. There should be 4 screws around the lower part of the cap. Take your screwdriver and push down on the screw and turn like a quarter turn counter clockwise and you will see it release from the distributor. If you look at the new cap you will be able to see how it works. Once you have the cap off you will have to transfer the coil to the new cap. There should be 2 small screws on the top of the cap that hold the cover over the coil.
I think there are 4 screws holding the coil in to the cap and you will have to pull the wires and terminals out of the cap as you are removing the coil. Be careful when you retighten the screws in new cap.
When you replace the rotor you will see by looking at the bottom of it that it can only fit one way and lock on to distributor.
Just take your time. If you have any problems I will try to help.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
I had a problem on my Nissan Xterra 2000. Symptons sound similar. In my case, it ran fine for a while and then suddenly the engine starts to stumble and lose output. At one point it did not even have enough HP to move. Irregular idling too. Thought it was water in my fuel. Bought water remover from the store and added to gas tank. Problem did not go away. Instead, "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Had to have it towed to the dealer as there was no way the engine could keep up with traffic. Dealer replaced the "Crank Position Sensor" today. Parts $33.00, Labor: $300 (about 3 hrs worth of work). Seems to work fine now but I will wait and see. Dealer also stated that Distributor bearing appears to be noisy and will need to be replaced sooner or later. I will wait for it to go before I fix that.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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