Question about 1992 Saturn SL2

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Rear brakes problem started with losing brake fluid (lots) fixed that....cylinder was bad. bought new one and replaced it. after bleeding brakes, test drove it less than 3 miles....no brakes....rubber on cylinder pushed out lost fluid. replaced cylinder again and replaced drum (poss wear)...bled brakes again....now with brakes pressed, I can turn rear tire by hand....any solutions?

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  • danand mary Nov 06, 2008

    thanks, looked at shoes after your suggestion....the problem actually ended up being that the left side of the shoes was not behind the part it needed to be. put it where it belonged and prob. solved...thank you!

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  • 26 Answers

Either the cyl isnt moving or the shoes are not adjusted up far enough

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

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91' Mazda B2600i I have replaced pads, master cylinder and one front caliper that was bad. Have bleed brakes a lot went through 2 large bottles of brake fluid. Still no brakes. What do I do now?


It is possible you got a bad master cylinder--even new parts can be bad. Are you following correct bleeding procedure? Starting with right rear, then left rear, right front then left front? Using a helper to pump the pedal slowly then hold to the floor as you open bleed screw, watch for bubbles then close it before pedal is released? Top up fluid often and insure it never gets low enough to suck in air? I once got a "new" master that had no check valve installed.

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lose the fittings at the master cylinder, you should have two of them , one for the front brakes and one for the rear, get a friend to push the brake pedal ( not too hard, be careful they may spay all over) ; and see if any fluid is coming out with his pedal down tight the fittings back with the pedal down,so you don't get any air in the lines. If nothing comes out you have a bad master cylinder.

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I just replaced the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinder on my 1987 toyota pickup, and now I have no fluid going to the back brakes. Bleeding them does nothing


check for fluid before and after the proportioning valve by disconnection the line after the valve and applying the brakes, if no fluid after valve try before valve if fluid is there then it is a bad proportioning valve. you did bleed the master cylinder before connecting the brake line and trying to bleed the brakes all at once right? If the master cylinder was not bled first then a lot of air may have been forced into the rest of the brake lines.

Oct 01, 2011 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

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My kid bought a 99 Grand Am, the brakes were spongy and had to be pumped. The car now has new front calipers, pads, and new master cylinder. We bench bled the master cylinder and bled out the brakes. The...


If the car has Drum style rear brakes, make sure the adjustment is good. It takes a lot of fluid to activate them.
PS. I assume you did bleed the rears.

Apr 12, 2011 | Pontiac Grand Am Cars & Trucks

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OK........as you have stated that you have bled the brakes properly.....was there fluid coming out each bleed nipple as a flowing stream...????

And did you shut off the bleed nipple half way down stroke....?????

If this is all ok, then I would be looking at a failed master cylinder.......and what is occurring is the fluid is leaking from the primary to the secondary within the master cylinder !!!!!

Mar 31, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

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Just replaced the rear brakes do i have to or is it a Must to Bleed the Brakes????????????????


If you did not replace the calipers or wheel cylinders or you did not open the bleeder screws than there is no reason to bleed the brakes. Most brake services where just the brake pads or shoes are replaced are done without bleeding the brakes.

The only time you need to bleed the brakes is if you replace a caliper, wheel cylinder, brake line, brake hose, or master cylinder.

You can also bleed or flush the brakes as maintenance. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Over time this moisture will reduce the boiling point of the break fluid. Lower boiling point means that under heavy braking the brake fluid can get hot enough to boil. Once it boils you get air bubbles and lose your braking ability. So flushing/bleeding the brake system every once and a while just makes good sense.

Nov 14, 2010 | 1994 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Fluid (could be oil ) is leaking from the center of the rear axel. i do not have a clue there is a lot wrong with this van it may be dead


The only fluid that can be leaking from the rear axle on a front wheel drive would be brake fluid. You probably have a leaking wheel cylinder. It may only be a matter of time before you do start to lose your stopping capability. However, if it is a wheel cylinder they are only held in by two bolts and a hose. You will probably twist the hose off trying to remove it from the cylinder. You will have to buy new straight piece of brake line with ends and bend it into a shape that fits and is not interfered with by moving suspension parts. But is possible to fix cheaply if you do the work. Bleeding the system instructions are on the master cylinder. Start at the back and work your way up. My 93 is still on the road. I am guessing that rust will be what finishes it off . You will need generic brake line, dot brake fluid, wheel cylinder, and new brake shoes(do both sides).

Sep 14, 2010 | 1993 Plymouth Voyager

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No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

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Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
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If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

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