SOURCE: 1999 elantra transmisson does not
transmission code @check engine light on or history code vechile input and out put sensors
SOURCE: 2000 Elantra manual trans car won't crank
While the suggested resistance check of the clutch safety switch should catch a bad switch. However it may still be bad. I had the experience on my 2001 Elantra with the same problem happening intermittently. I checked and I had the delay check the switch and it looked okay. After three more trips and having them test other things including replacing the Starter motor under warranty they just replaced the switch. No more problem until 3 years later same thing started happening. I asked them to specifically check this and they just adjusted how far the switch button stuck out for teh clutch pedal to engage it under the dash. 4 days later it happened again. I said f it or something like that and went and bought the 15 dollar switch and put it in myself. I've not had a problem since then. But then I'm just coming up to the 3 yr anniversary of that switch.
You can also just bypass the switch and remember not to crank your starter without the clutch engaged unless you want to experience what whiplash is like firsthand.
Just change the switch.
SOURCE: I have a hyundai elantra 2000 and I was told that
I have 2002 elantra with similar problem. (but only takes 3 minutes to activate the problem) gets locked in 3rd gear, so have to start from a stop in 3rd, and revs really high when attempting freeway speed. also resets itself when you turn the ignition off, but will come back immediately (4 seconds, i think) as soon as you hit 30km/h the first time. (if you're seeing something slightly different read on anyway, some useful resources here)
So I'll start by saying I haven't fixed my problem yet, but found a lot of detail on it, which I'll share. First, check out http://www.hmaservice.com/ this is hyundai's site for service bulletins and other useful info. Locking into 3rd gear is one of 11 failsafe modes for the transmission, which they refer to as "electrical limp home mode" read the descriptions of the failsafe modes if yours is slightly different.
Second, get someone with an electronic read-out to check your DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble codes) I got mine done at AutoZone, who offers the service for free. Make sure you leave the car running, so the DTC doesn't clear itself, as it does each time you turn off the ignition. You'll probably get one of the four codes P0715, P0720, P0721 or P0722. 715 and 721 indicate a problem with the input speed sensor, which measures the rotation rate of the shaft going into the transmission, and the other two are codes for the output sensor, which reports the rate of rotation of the output shaft. In both cases, the problem can be that the sensor is blown or that the wiring leading up to it has a problem.
Now go back to hmaservice.com and look up TSB (technical service bulletin) 09-AT-016
it has a good picture of where to find the sensors on top of your transmission. there are some others that detail the failsafe modes (search on failsafe). you should have something to go on from here.
Unless your brother moved the sensor over from your old transmission to the new one, the fact that you still have the problem would suggest that the problem is in the wiring harness. Now, if it's a wiring problem, what would cause it to work OK for some time when the vehicle is cold? check to see if you have a puddle of coolant on the sensor when you start, and then look again after the problem kicks in. they put the sensors on top, where liquid can puddle, and beneath the coolant hoses where they often leak, especially after 8-9 years of use.
there is one catch, and that is if I read the info correctly, the 2000 elantra is a whole different series than the 2001-2009, and may be entirely different in codes, failsafes and sensor locations, but the three steps are still the best course for you.
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