We recently replaced the 3100 with a longblock reman from Oreilly auto parts. The Car runs fine. All was well until I went to get the emmisions certification. The tech performed the tests, everything checked out O.K. except for ... What he described as ... "The computer is not ready yet". He advised that since the new E/G had only been operated for a few hours or so, that it needed to be ran for a while before the computer would "Reset or establish communication" again. I think He's been smoking something. We ran the car for aproximately 500 miles since then. Occasionally the SES light will kick, and when we scan it, it's the MAF circuit. Nothing else. We have had the car retested and the Tech states the same problem (Computer not ready). I can't comprehend how the computer is setting the SES light, giving a fault code, But the Emmisions computer/tech falis the car because of the computer is not "Ready"?? Any ideas on which direction we should go? Can we have the ECM flashed to see if it's just a bug of some sort?
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Re: emmisions test result="Computer not ready"
A couple of things that I would recommend (just some suggestions) would be to clean the MAF sensor, I believe you indicated that sometimes it shows fault. Also maybe just disconnect the battery for a day maybe two. If all else fails find someone that lives outside of a stinking emissions testing area and use whatever means necessary to register your car there. In all seriousness the emissions is a bunch of BS and the technician is/was being truthful. The vehicle does need to be driven a certain # of miles for the computer to re-set but my limited understanding is usually 150-250 miles MAX. If you are running short on time depending on where you live, you may also want to go to the tag office and see if they can give you a waiver or an extension, I would probably take it elsewhere and have another emissions place check it out. I hope some of this may help you out.
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Your local auto parts store can reset your computer with an obd-ll scanner(as long as check engine light is on)..or you could simply disconnect the battery for about 15 min. This will not mask mechanical issue with your catalytic converter or 02 sensors whichever case may be..It will only clear the code and give your car's computer a chance to re-run its emmision tests..Check engine light will be back if an emmisions part has failed or needs repair..All this to the best of my knowledge with the information provided.....Hope this helps and best of luck with your automotive endeavors.
btw, the autostore(advance auto, autozone, etc...) will normally give you a printout of your cars obd-ll codes(which cause check engine light to illuminate) if you ask. They may even offer up some guidance but keep in mind they"re trying to sell parts.
You need to find out what is causing the check engine light, to go any further in fixing you car. Most likely you have a bad sensor, but you should go to a local auto parts store, as most of them, like auto zone, will scan your car for free and tell you what part is most likely bad. a little luck and you will get a cheap fix and pass emissions!
ignition module located in the distributor. aside from being a mech i also owned an '87 that went through modules frequently. remove it and bring it to an auto parts store like Autozone or OReilly and they have a machine to test your module before you buy one. Hope this helps!
a bad mss air sensor would cause this, but your engine lights(check engine) should be showing.. Trust me; if you didn't have a crank sensor; it wouldn't run at all. A simple test for you in vaccum lines. get a bowl of soapy water; and while it's running;slowly over each line, liberally put water and soap mixture. If it's sucking air it will bubble at that sight. But a problem with 3.1, and 3.8's(Dorman makes these) are the intakes. They have a problem(all of them!) where a faulty manufacturing problem, causes the back seal to blow out and warp the manifold. You lose vaccum there, and it runs awful. It's about a $179-199.00 part(comes with everything you need in kit) at OReilly and Carquest and Advance . I'll bet that is the dog in this hunt! Good luck
your first mistake was buying a reman starter from autozone ....go to napa, oreilly, or anywhere but autozone to buy reman starters alternators etc ....autozone parts are junk ... get a new starter motor and replace the autozone one ....
to do this right, you have to remove the axle and separate the rzeppa joint in the inboard axle. Typically, by the time you purchase the boot, grease and figure the time it will take you, along with the constant slide hammer beating, then you will decide to purchase an entire axle with a lifetime warranty somewhere. Stay away from A1 Cardone. Get a new one if you can afford it, or a good reman from Napa, Carquest, Worldpac or IMC.
You'll thank me later for the trouble this will save you.
Have you tried changing the alternator...you can even get it tested before you change it just have someone take it off and go to like autozone, advance auto parts, oreilly...umm basically any auto part store...because your alternator keeps the car charged and somtimes when it's going bad it will do what you're explaining
I am in Virginia but I believe you vehicle is showing a monitors not ready for Catalyst & Evap. If that is correct you need to basically drive the car a few days. The computer will remonitor itself and should be fine following that. Most drive cycles require highway driving & city driving. Make sure you turn on a/c as well. Its not how many miles you drive but what conditions you drive that sets you monitors. You could locate the drive cycle and attempt to replicate it but its usually very difficult drive exactly as the cycle asks. Good luck.