No brake lights, fuses keep blowing and wont shift
Thank you for your response. I have inspected the visible areas for chafed wires and not seeing any issues. Could you give me a little info about the shift lock control switch, the shift lock solenoid, and the shift lock control ECU. Could any of these three be my problem? Do you know what years and which other model cars would use the same shift lock components, I was told camry, celica, paseo, tercell, corolla and possibly even the lexus 300's may use the same parts? Please help me I dont know whats next..
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There is a wire grounding out somewhere. Start from the fuel pump (u know that is good) and follow the wires inspecting them carefully for any chafing or corrosion. It should go up thru the floor around the back of the back seat. Pop the seat out and continue looking at the wires taking the wrapping off as you go. It may be bad under the carpet where water collects from boots and shoes, so look at these areas carefully for corrosion. Happy hunting!!
If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.
If the fuse blows on different trailers then it's all down to the vehicle. You either have incorrect wiring on the vehicle, a short OR the fuse is not of a high enough value to cope with the additional brake lights? You could try removing all the trailer bulbs EXCEPT the brake lights - e.g. if it's trying to power up the indicators too? That would stop the fuse blowing...... OR remove the brake bulbs from the vehicle & see if it operates the trailer without blowing...... Check the total wattage of ALL the brake lamps & see if the fuse is actually of a high enough rating? Be aware though that increasing the value of the fuse could cause damage elsewhere! As a rough guide a 25 watt bulb will pull around 2 amps at 12 volts - so 4 bulbs may pull up to 8 amps & clearly blow a 5 amp fuse! If in doubt take it to an auto electrician...... The wiring needs to be correctly protected!
The Tail lights and Instrument lights are usually on the same circuit so both will go out if the fuse for the circuit blows. Check for a blown fuse for this circuit and replace if out. If fuse continues to fail, check the tail light or side globes for a faulty globe and replace if necessary. Also check for any chafed wires that could be shorting to the body causing the fuse to blow.
CHECK BRAKE LIGHTS FUSE.IF FUSE OKAY.BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS BAD.VECHICLE NOT SHIFTING OUT OF PARK PROBLEM COULD BE BLOWED FUSE OR CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION OR TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR FAULTY AND PROBLEM IN BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IF FAULTY IT WILL KEEP THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID FROM WORKING KEEPING YOU FROM GETTING VECHICLE OUT OF PARK.IF BRAKE SWITCH IS GOOD.PROBLEM IN THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID.
I would look for a wiring short in the trunk at the taillamp area, or, inspect the sockets for the taillamp bulbs for corrosion. In any case, you have a short circuit in the trunk area, also check the wire that comes from the body & goes up the trunk hinge on the driver side; that wire may be chafed, and it may be shorting out. Hope this helps; please get back to me if you need any further assistance.