Question about 1986 Ford Ranger 2WD

5 Answers

Fuel issue or spark (ignition)?

Ok fine people, wrap your noodles around this one. 2.9L EFI engine, starts perfectly every time. Idles all day long no prob. Try to go and as long as you don't push the gas pedal down too far you will move along. But go past that point (maybe 1/4 of the way down) and it acts like it is running out of gas. Surges and bucks like crazy. Push in the clutch and keep the pedal to the floor and it lopes between almost dying and just short of winding up to the point of letting off it for fear of winding it too tight. Not quite to there but just before. It will do that until you let up off the pedal back to that 1/4 down point and then will gain rpms and rev sounding perfect. I've changed both fuel pumps, fuel filter, press. regulator, cat. conv., fuel injectors. What the hell? Ready to drench it in gas and watch it burn. Any ideas? If not someone bring over some weiners and beer and we will make an evening of it.

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  • wahl78 Jan 18, 2009

    Hi,

    Ok this problem is similar for this 92 3cyl 1.0L geo metro, Ive torn the motor apart, replaced a burnt exhaust valve, replaced o2 sensor, replaced crankshaft, new timing belt, tried new ecu's, coils, replaced the auto trans with a manual trans, put new rings on, dropped off the exhaust pipe to check the cat, nearly pissed in the gas tank, kicked the tires, and put dents in the body where appropriate.

    What else... ohh yeah, I've not taken apart or traded the injector, the carburator, the fuel pump or filter,

    I DO have fuel pressure,much compression, and fluids are fine, and the fuel

    relay seems to be operable.



    What happens is, the veh starts up just perfect and when either the engine warms up, or some time upto 30 seconds the engine is in top shape and opperation and all is well.

    then IT happens, every thing begins to cycle,



    first the fuel stops as the injector quits pumping fuel into carb.

    second the motor begins to decelerate as no fuel is being added.

    third the injector magicaly turns on again and re-revs the motor.



    it sounds like this....ruuuuuummmmmmallisfinepuuuuggghhhhhruuuummmpuggggghhhrumpuuupand down up then down up then down.



    when the throttle is used the veh falls on its face as in the injector just quits.



    why is this??

    thanks for the info. ohh and the pcv valve has also been replaced.

    and I heard the obd 1 sys has to warm up and check all sensors before it begins to make adjustments...well during the warm up phase the veh runs fine and later after it kicks in is when it turns south.



    thanks again,

    Kyle

    323-719-7077



    every little bit helps.

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Popping can mean its running too lean. i know this is a 4yr old topic, but hey if this helps anybody....
'86 was carbs era.. maybe throttle-body injection, but if carb: little tiny pinhole ports where the butterfly opens when you step on the gas, that valve opens. can take a piece of strong kind of small wire to poke in those holes (ports) then hit with a squirt of carb cleaner. or its dirty main jet or the main jet vacuum diaphram (or vacuum leak elsewhere). tps indicator is a good idea too. but might be too old (vintage) for that. fuel injection -definitely. fuel injected, it could be MAF if problem happens after like 30 -90 seconds ... there's a timer on that circuit. Good luck felow diy-ers. Cheers

Posted on Jan 22, 2015

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I have an 86 ranger 2wd with the 2.9 in it and I have had similar problems. Mine would run great for about ten minutes or so, (until it was nice and warmed up) and then it would start bucking, and popping and just running like ****. For me, the TPS (throttle position sensor) was the culprit. Very easy to test. Take your tps off, (it is held on the passenger side of the throttle body by 2 screws). After you have it off, you will see 3 prongs where the plug goes. Using any ohm meter, put the positive tester lead on the middle prong and the neg. lead on either of the other prongs. VERY slowly turn the tps actuator, (the part that turns as you accelerate). As you turn it, the ohms should increase at the exact same rate as you are turning it. If the ohm meter gets erratic, (starts going up, or down very quickly, or simply does nothing) then your TPS needs to be replaced.

Posted on Mar 12, 2010

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I had the EXACT same problem, the culptrit? For me it was the O2 sensor on the exhaust. Check yours, if its bad then thats the problem.
An o2 sensor sends "messages" to the engine telling it how rich/lean to run, so if thats bad it will run like ****.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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Try spraying your distribotor cap w/ wd-40, sounds crazy try it. moisture around and in distributor will make it do that. better yet replace dist. cap and rotor all together. no more problems. check it out. try wd first. pull cap off and look for corrosion i bet thats your problem.hope this helps

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

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Kyle,
try replacing the engine with one that is not a piece of ****. Also, you may try buying a new car with a warranty

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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1997 Prism LSI. It cranks, but why won't it start?


redux 2
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crude video, but is for folks with near zero tools
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

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Engine died while driving, no spark, replaced coil, now starts, idles, runs well at low rpm, but misfires when accelerating. No check engine costs thrown. What should I check next.


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93 Honda Civic dx will not start. new fuel pump igniter, has spark


sorry if you guess and guess wrong. really, must be expensive.



ok got spark (and timing is good, timing light test)

if test fuel ( use instant start in a spray can) fails, with spark

then engine is bad, compression is checked, see near 80 not 150+ PSI , the timing belt has slipped. if not changed by the book

they slip and the engine grenades (or bends valves)



this is an interference engine, never ignore the belt.

there is an acid test order.

1 compression good.

2 spark good, and timed

3 fueling is last. (if spark plugs dry add fuel, by hand)



cant burn fuel with no compression and spark. well with EFI it cant run right with bent valves either.



here is Chad running an engine (any) with no gas tank

even his battery is dead. and has external battery. for 12v power.

a real trooper.

ive done this 1000s of times. in 60 years.

his engine only makes 80 psi (old) and still starts.

but EFI will never do that not that low. compression



the cam slips and goes retarded compression drops to near 1/2

and the valve timing is so bad, the exh opens late and pollutes the

next last intake charge. the card house falls and then the valve bend.



take if from me, nostarts are a blessing on any honda

maybe it saved your valves.? do the service on time./

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1998 jeep grand cherokee will not turn over but fuel pump is fine


fine? ( 30 to 40PSI , fine, not squirt tests or sounds)

EFI demands full pressure all the time, its not like carb cars of old.

first off, no engine stated ,so all help will be poor, all cars have engine options.. to work on any car , open hood, (USA commenter) and look up see that EPA sticker there, and the engine ID< and displacement?



That is first. (ill pretend , you drove to my shop and what id do)

i ask owner, when\'s the last time car was a daily driver?, last week or last decade>? (bad fuel, etc,....happens)



i stick finger in air, its 50F, not -40F air temp, ok not in Canada. cool. er its hot...

i open hood and see a I6 4.0L engine, with EFI. ok.



2: i check all the fuses. it\'s EFI and blown fuses, will kill the show.

3: i turn the key , and check engine lamp glows, (ECU is happy)

(ecu has juice , so boots and glows CEL, to say so)



4: i crank it, it cranks over 250 RPM, sounds like normal fast cranking

we all know that sound, we dont use the tachometer...



5: i then ask owner , evah\' tune it up this decade, answer no.

SSDD !

i then do the tune up, plugs were ratty. all spark parts, filters.

we dont use $100/hr labor to find ratty spark parts the install them

its called a tune up.



car runs like new. (end story) no?

or it was tuned up;.

so, i check spark it is blue-white on my test spark plug (new) times 6.

i then check spark timing, it\'s dead on, good, if off i fix that first.



if timing is off on most cars i check compression as some like

to slip cam timing. (i saw a V6 once with plastic timing gears. once burned ,twice shy , i check it all) (i do a compression test on all old motors. so I can see TRUTH, and potential future LIFE of engine)



ok, spark is perfect,please note my order, good motor?, good spark?

with bad motors and spark the fuel can not burn, not fully.



then, i try "test fuel" (can-o-spray) car runs for 3 seconds. and stalls.



my gosh, the motor and spark were good. verrroooooom stall....



(btw, this here, logic flow is bad on DOHC motors, 99% true) ask



i check spark plug tips and they are dry. (wet is flooding)

DRY !

i suspect low or no fuel pressure, i know from experience

that fuel pumps about 75% do not run only key on, only cranking

and running they run. so i check pressure.



i find its 10psi.

the story gets longer for flooding or injectors tests, ill skip that.. ask.

so 10psi,. i find

1: 12v to pump is really just 6v, if fix bad connector up stream from pump. done.

2: if 12v to pump cranking, mine was 11v, but the starter does that. drop so is ok. (study starting systems) , its good line voltage is good. cranking.



3: i then check the fuel pressure reg, and find the thing stuck wide open , i replace the reg. and pressure is 34 PSI (wild guess. didnt look yours up. ) car runs prefect now.

or

4: i find FPreg ok, but pump is weak, new pump saves day..

i have a scope and can see this pump is noisy, has a bad commutator segment, deep inside it... scopes, rule.

all above is good?

if pump pressure is at spec. cranking, then

do this long story, omitted due to fingers sore.

ask

the pump tests and spec are all covered 100% in a real FSM.

the spec is covered at alldata.com, log in and see it.

btw, all EFI just hates low fuel pressure.

the whole system is turned for good pressure,

and many systems do not even monitor it.

To understand that read the books by, Greg Banish



http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388070570&sr=8-1&keywords=greg+banish.



the pressure must be at spec, and must regulate perfectly

or the ECU fuel tables are all TRASH.



hard starts. (fast starter) nut shell.

1: bad fuel. or running summer fuel in winter

what is your air temp, not stated, and is big factor ,if very cold.

2; no tuneups. ever done.

3: bad spark or timing off,

4: low compression.

5: bad ISC, try starting with 10% throttle ,to mimic a good ISC.

6: flooding. soaking wet spark tips.

7: under fueling, dry sparks.



try test fuel. if dry.

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its an old car, why not get the real FSM to keep it going. DIY
it only takes 3 things to run,. one is bad, and find that 1 failure
and take it to the logical conclusions (vast)
1:Good engine, 150psi compression all cylinders. W.0.T.
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if the engine was good and spark , then test fuel test would pass.
does it?
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if the sparks are dry, and you did a proper tuneup. did you, and did you put the new spark plug wires back 1 by 1, no?
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you see all NOID checks go dead on all cylinders , that means
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see scotty do it.
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Wont start dash lights up perform service


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perform service, i just can noodle that. what does that mean?

1: check all fuses. in both boxes, EFI needs many fuses to work.
2: if cranks perfectly , does it?
3: we check for spark , in the blind hope compression is good all cyl.
4: spark is good, (and timing in the realm)
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5a: dry, try test fuel. (spray)
5b; wet, i use supers secret (in opr guide) unflood mode.
"wide open throttle cranking"?
it starts and runs.
it start then stalls and floods again
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