I took off the door panel and when I took the motor off the cable was wrapped around the Motor spindle. I assume that the cable that raises and lowers the window is broken. First question, is it a big deal to replace and second is the cable assembly all one part number. Also does anyone have any directions or parts breakdown. Thanks
Re: Driver side electric window won't go up or down
My best guess would be the window regulator, vw has never been able to build them correctly. when the door panel is removed to gain access to the lifter check the window lifter motor. before replacing the regulator. also make sure the window switch is sending/ recieving power.
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My guess is that you have more than one fault. Check fuses and relays first. Remove the door inner lining panel and plastic drip shield membrane (double sided carpet tape is a neat way of sticking this back when reinstalling) You need to check that the regulator cable has not snapped and that cable has not wrapped itself around the motor drum; opening a window takes less effort than closing, so failures occur most often when closing. If cables are intact you need to check that voltage is reaching motors, that there is electrical continuity and that there is a good earth connection.
There is no simple way, you will have to remove the door panel by taking the screws out of anything that holds it on. The control panel on the door usually has one or two screws depending on the model. The door panel is held on with a few screws and mainly clips that push into holes on the door. Once everything is removed used something flat about an inch or so wide and insert it between the door and panel, carefully move it up and down until you feel a clip then pull the tool towards you to pop the clip out. On the Chevy there may be two screws one on each end, and in the arm rest. Remove these and grab the bottom up the panel and push up, the panel should then be able to move. Check the motor while running and look at the gear which may be stripped. Also check the runners the window goes into since they often contain a felt to keep the window quiet but can come loose and jam the window. My best guess is the motor is weak and needs to be replaced, since going down is easy, but putting the window up requires more torque and worn motors fail. My 94 Camero does this on the drivers side. Goes down easy, coming up it will often stop, I wait a few minutes it will go up a little further, until I finally get it all the way. Hope this helps and if you need more information you can contact me. Just a reminder, you can change the motor yourself, but it requires patience and a little more knowledge than most people have about cars.
Assuming you have power windows. Had similar problem on 2000 Buick LaSabre.
Had to replace electric motor drive assembly inside of door. The motor moves a steel cable around nylon/plastic pulleys. In time the cable cuts into the pulley. Access motor assembly by removing inner door panel. I had to purchase assembly from the dealer ($$$). Digital snapshots as you disassemble will help you reassemble. Job took about 1.5 hours, and I had never done it before.
You likely have a bad window regulator(fancy name for the electric motor and the cable mechinism that moves the window up and down.
I have had to replace both rear window requlators in my 2003 GMC Envoy, Terrible engineering on the window requlator. There is a nylon wheel on the electric motor, that nylon wheel winds up the cables to raise/lower the window. The edges of the nylon wheel (drum) wear out and the cable derails. Running the window motor just makes a "rats nest" out of the cables, you will likely have to replace the whole regulator. The inside door panel is held on by screws, in door handle and then clips around the perimeter of the pannel. After you remove the inside door panel there will be a paper panel siliconed to the door frame. You will have to be very careful removing it as it tears easily. I replaced my requlators several years ago. The left and right door went out within a couple of months of each other. At that time the only place you could get the rear doors was the dealer($200- $230) . The front doors had aftermarket available. I would assume with such a poor design, there are sure to be less expensive aftermarket parts(that are likely better) available.
If you are mechanicaly inclined, should be able to replace in about 1-2 hours.
Remove the door panel, and use two jumper wires to the window motor. One wire goes to a good, non-painted surface on the metal body of the van, for a good ground. The other wire goes to a 12 volt source. Touch the two wires of the window motor with the two jumper wires.
Tries to go up? Switch the jumper wires around, and try again.
It could be one of about 3 things, the switch could be bad, the motor, or the window regulator. Sometimes you can hit the lower part of the door a couple of times wile holding the window switch to check the motor. I don't know how to check the switch but the cable on the regulator can brake and wrap around the motor not allowing it to run. The only way to check this is to take the door pannel off and see if the cable is broke.
The same thing happened to my 1999 JMC Jimmy recently. I believe the problem is that your power window motor has most likely gone out or is starting to go out. The motor will need replaced. They are pretty expensive new. I went to a junkyard and got one for around 15 dollars. When mine went bad, I had rolled my window down about three or four inches and it stuck there. I took my door panel off and tapped on the motor while holding up on the window switch and got it to go up after a few minutes. I am replacing my motor today, I'll leave an update here about the outcome when I finish the job. I hope this information helps you.
Hello, I have a 2004 Avl. I replaced the driver door window mechanism myself. You need to pry out the electric window controls with a dull blade as to not tear the vinyl. Disconnect the controls carefully. There are small release clips that hold the switch buttons onto the electric base. Then the arm rest, there is a long screw under the armrest. At the front towards the mirror there is a long screw under a round plastic snap cover. I believe it is a small metric bolt. Next grasp the bottom end of the door cover and pull with a sharp snap. Continue around the door panel gently pulling the snaps loose from their base. The door panel cover does not cantain screws only snaps. There is a clear plastic water barrior you need to be careful to peel without tearing and place on a clean flat surface with sticky side up. I had to replace the window track and motor all in one piece, can't just replace track. I purchaces the mechanism on-line parts store.