After traveling on major highway at 70 mph without any trouble, turned off side road for 2 miles when car puttered as if running out of gas and engine turned off. We rolled to a stop, tried to restart. There is 3/4 tank of gas in car. Engine turns but won't start. It's not the battery, tried new battery and still car won't start. There is some kind of churning noise from below the driver's seat. I'm single mom, on a budget, of course. Luckily, have 3 male relatives that can help me, if I can find the trouble, buy the part, etc.
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Re: Car won't start
If you have noise from the under the seat then its the problem with fuel pump .Since the fuel pump is concealed within the tank, it is difficult to
test directly at the pump. It is possible to test the pump from under
the hood, listening for pump function and feeling the fuel delivery
lines for the build-up of pressure.
Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the motor.
a jumper wire, short both terminals of the fuel pump check connector.
The check connector is located under the hood near the wiper motor.
Connect the terminals labeled FP and +B.
Fig. 6: Checking the electric fuel pump at the check connector
that there is pressure in the hose running to the delivery pipe. You
should hear fuel pressure noise and possibly hear the pump at the rear
of the car.
Remove the jumper wire.
Turn the ignition
to OFF. If the fuel pump failed to function, it may indicate a faulty
pump, but before removing the tank and pump, check the following items
within the pump system:
the fusible link
fuses (EFI/15 amp and IGN/7.5 amp)
fuel injection main relay
fuel pump circuit opening relay
all wiring connections and grounds.
if you want the fuel pump removal then please let me know ....
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This is my drive cycle a generic drive cycle i have used many times over the years and it has never failed me most drive cycles are too specific and impossible to adhere to for most drivers follow these steps exactly 1. make sure all codes are cleared and no check engine light is on 2 make sure the fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 full (this is part of the enable criteria for the evap monitor to run ) 3 let vehicle set overnight 4 start engine and let idle until the temp gauge is in the middle (this cold start enables the evap monitor and runs the O2 sensor heater test )5 drive vehicle around town avoid the highway stay at below 50 mph and when stoping at lights remove your foot from the gas and coast from around 50 to about 10mph or less if possible this will run the EGR monitor after about 3 to five miles of this proceed to the highway or freeway and travel over 50 but under 70 mph for about 3 to 5 miles this will run the catalyst test provided the O2 monitors passed if they didnt you will have a check engine light on before this point also i do a coast down on exit ramps (no braking) they make great places to get that EGR to run ONCE YOU START THIS PROCEDURE DO NOT KILL THE ENGINE OR SOME OF THE TEST WILL FAIL TO RUN
Ask your local technician to set up a fuel gauge pressure monitor so you can track it while your driving. Ask him what the normal range is so you will know when it falls below. Document it and let your
Tech know. It sounds like your fuel pump is loosing
my 1988 towncar used to stop running on the open road at 70 mph after 20-25 miles of driving.......after sitting on the side for a 1/2 hr it was start right back up like nothing happened. After 2 frustrating weeks and 3 different mechanics I found out through another towncar owner that the ignition coil is getting hot and is causing the engine to shut off...Lo and behold 28.00 and 20 mins solved the problem. Just invest in a good Ignition coil from NAPA or SUMMIT PARTS
A complete check-up of the car which should include but not be limited to:
Change the oil (when was the last time you changed it?) Change the oil filter & the air filter (again, when were they changed last?)
Check the coolant and brake fluid
Check the brake pads - inspect all lights including turning signals (for safetys sake)
Check the air pressure in the tires (including your spare tire) Check your car's alignment, this can cause uneven wear on your tires and it will believe it or not contribute to making the trip more exhausting.
Make sure you get a good rest the night/day before you depart. - if you begin to doze off dont hesitate to stop at a rest stop. Dont fight against your body, if you are tired, stop and take a 30 minute power nap, wash your face and drink a cup of coffee before you get back on the road. Make sure you have a bottle of water in the car and plenty of good music to listen to. - Speed wise I suggest you dont travel at more than 10mph over the speed limit, traveling a little over (up to 10 mph) is tolerated by police, but I strongly sugest going 5 mph over the limit, set the cruise control and enjoy the trip without worrying about potential fines. If you do the math, the difference in time traveled is not so great: speed limit = 70 mph (just as an example) 1300 miles @ 70 mph = 18 hours 36 minutes 1300 miles @ 75 mph = 17 hours and 20 minutes 1300 miles @ 80 mph = 16 hours 15 minutes the difference between traveling 75 or 80 is only 1 hours and 5 minutes. Not worth risking a fine for
Generally stalling out while cruising could be a crank sensor, fuel pump, or ignition module. Being it only happens intermittantly I would suggest getting it checked out by a pro before you get stranded. This is the type of complaint that can be a nightmare to diagnose so be prepared for an expensive diag