NEGETIVE CABLE ON BATTERY NOT GETTING GOOD CONECTION, CHANGE THAT NOW CAR WONT IDLE, VERY LONG. RPM GO BELOW 1 THEN IT DIES. CHANGED THE BATTERY, AND CHECKED THE ALTERNATOR IS GOOD, WHAT DO I DO NOW!?1?
The computer loses it's memory when it is disconnected from the battery for any amount of time. Part of this is the engine idle. The fastest way to "cure" this (takes about 5 mins) is to start it up and give it enough gas to keep it running. Then let off the gas so that it ALMOST stalls and give it a little more gas to keep it running. Repeat about 5-10 times (you will notice it improving). You will need to do this with the AC on and with it off as the idle requirements are different. This worked great in my standard transmission. In the automatic, it's possible you may need to also do the same while it is in the various gears. It's a FAST fix though!
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The electrical load on the alternator will pull the engine RPM down. It takes 10 H.P. to run the alternator. The only recourse to low RPM at idle would be to install a larger diameter pulley on the alternator. Extended idle could result in low battery charge rate. Should be fine at hi way speed. The alternator will not put out below 750 Rpm.
Check all of the battery terminals and cables and check the wires on the starter/selonoid, start from the battery and follow the cable out and check all conections , clean and tighten them and if it still does it the starter/selonoid is bad and needs replacement...
Check that your alternator is actually charging the battery. With volt meter and car running check for at least 13.5 volts at battery. If not check fuses, big red wire from alternator to battery and for actual output of alternator at bolt where big red wire attaches to alternator. Should have battery voltage with car not running and at least 13.5 when engine is idling(motor running)
You have replaced the alternator because? Did you check to see if it was any good before you replaced it? The charging rate is controlled by a regulator either in the alternator or in the ECM. The connections in the entire circuit have to be good. Check the grounds and connectors in the circuit. The condition of the battery is also important. If the battery doesn't have any capacity left the alternator wont get enough current flow through the field to power the alternator. You might need the services of a professional.
is the engine running at 800 rpm or more.
if engine RPM is way low the Alternator will die out.
trans light , where is that? name it. exactly
lets focus first on the engine, and RPM
does the dash have a tachmeter, ? yes, then use that.
we keep a hand tachometer (optical , ready for no tach cars)
RPM is everything.... maxwells laws. and such.
1: rpm 800 or more all the time. rule 1, do not skip this.
2: belt to ALT not slipping'
3: battery good. terminals on battery cables tight both ends and
NOT PACKED in green corrosion, .
4: alternator case is grounded good.
5: The connection and ALT, all good.
6: you key on, and the dash charge light must turn on,
if not fix that now, on old cars, the dash light , causes the ALT to self excite, if the lamp burns out the alternator boots up DEAD.
or fails every other car starts. (does)
7: new alt is the wrong alt. zillion wrong ones, only 1 works.
loose o rfaulty electrical connections at distributer, coil or alternator.fault in fuel or electrical systems.Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or throttle body.,Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold are positioned properly and in good condition
Your best bet is to remove the battery or the negative battery cable, charge it and drive your vehicle to an AutoZone, Checkers or similar Autoparts store to have your charging system checked. If the engine is running, even if you disconnect the negative battery cable it should stay running, if it dies, the alternator is not working, probably the voltage regulator. If you just bought the alternator, try to take the vehicle to that place so they can check it. If you don't think the car would make it to the auto parts store. Remove the alternator and the battery to have them tested. It is not unusual that an alternator fails when just out of the box. Good Luck!!
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SOUND LIKE ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY.BEFORE BUYING A NEW ALTERNATOR CHECK ALTERNATOR WIRES AND FUSE.IF YOU HAVE TO REMOVE ALTERNATOR.TURN OFF RADIO BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.SO YOU WONT LOSE PLAYING CODE.
alternator needs good battery to keep SCR in the regulator on if it is loaded it will shut down. this will happen when you try rolling window down or rear defog will load up the system. When the truck is running and battery is hooked up the vehicle should run at @700 RPM at idle and when A/C compressor is commended on it should idle up to @1000 RPM and then back down to @700 RPM when compressor cycle off again. But if the system almost stalls then the battery and alternator should be changed together, A bad battery will damage a new alternator and a bad alternator will damage a new battery.