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Re: oil pan leaking
1ST LOCATE THE SOURCE, JUST BECAUSE IT IS ON THE PAN DOES NOT MEAN THE PAN LEAKS, IT IS THE LOW SPOT SO ANY OIL ENDS UP THERE NO MATTER WHERE IT LEAKS FROM, HAVE THE ENGINE STEAM CLEANED AND THEN DRIVE IT UNTIL YOU SEE WHERE THE OILS SOURCE IS, THIS IS HOW WE DO IT AT THE DEALER.
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Take an 8mm socket, rachet and extension, Jack up the car enough to roll under on a creeper or put it up on the lift if you have one and tighten every bolt in the bottom of your oil pan. I don't have the torque specs but make sure each one is snug but not overtightened. It's easy to strip the threads if you over do it. Once you have snugged them all up, take a rag and some WD-40, clean off the pan and all the leaked from around the bolt holes. Start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temp... Look for leaks. If you still have leaks you may need to drain your oil, remove the pan and replace the gasket. You can also use the blue gasket maker silicon Follow the same steps re-installing the pan, check for leaks and hopefully that will cure it for you.
Only thing you can do is look for it. If its on the top or sidesof the engine it shouldnt be to hard to tell where its coming from. Most likely valve cover gaskets. If its on the bottom of the engine its most likely the oil pan gasket. Some vehicles when doing an oil change because of the oil filter location, oil will drip for awhile and make it look like it has a leak when it really doesnt. I would check teh valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket and make sure your oil filter and plug are tight.
the head gasket is on the engine higher than the oil pan so if the leak is not were the head meets the cylinder block and running down towards the bottom of the motor then the head gasket is not the problem.if the leak is only around the oil pan area and slightly above it then its probably the oil pan that is leaking.fluid leaks travel backwards or downwards not up.
you oil pan bolts of the bottom of the oil resivour the gaskit fits in between the surfaces where the pan meets it creating a seal witch in your case needs to be replaced this procedure replaces that gaskit to create a new seal
There are several places it could be coming from. The primary one is the oil pan. This would be the pan directly under the engine. It has the oil pan drain plug in it. If you are unfamiliar with the underside of automobiles you need to be sure you are not looking at the transmission oil pan. The first pan will be the oil pan. If you are mechanically inclined and have basic tools you can try and tighten up the oil pan bolts around the circumference of the pan. Normally if the leak is from the pan it will appear wet all around the bottom. However the leak could also be from the rear main seal at the back of the engine. This can leak down to the pan and appear to come from the oil pan. Most of the time a leak from this will be in one spot of the pan, leaving the front section dry. The other place is from the valve covers. You can check this by look under the hood at the side of the engine. If it's wet along the sides, that might be where it's from.
The only way you are going to know for sure is to get under it and look for yourself or take it somewhere to have looked at. You should have time to do this as long as you maintain the oil level in the engine. I hope this helps.
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.