Question about 1992 Chevrolet Cavalier

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Brake failure What could be the problem,I have replaced my brake booster,master cylinder and wheel cylinders and when I apply my brakes the pedal still goes to the floor. Front pads are good and rear shoes are good, brakes have been bled. Car is a 2000 chevy malibu.

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  • ray225 Nov 03, 2008

    yes I bled all four wheels

  • Brian032472
    Brian032472 May 11, 2010

    Did you bleed system and at all four wheels?

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  • 150 Answers

I would bleed the brakes with a power bleeder.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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1997 petrol brakes coming on by themselves rock hard pedal when happens. If left for a while can be driven again although the brake pedal becomes spongy.


I guess either the brake pedal linkage is maladjusted or perhaps not fully returning so the master cylinder fluid inlet is remaining closed. In that condition when the brake fluid expands as it grows warm under normal use it cannot escape back into the reservoir and so the brakes are applied until the system cools down.

You can check this quite simply - when next the brakes are applied momentarily release one or two brake bleed *******. If that frees the brakes it will be time to take a close look at the pedal linkage.

The condition also sometimes occurs after the replacement of the brake booster and/or brake master cylinder by folk throwing new parts at the car instead of fitting them..
There must be a clearance between the brake booster pushrod and the master cylinder piston and in the absence of service tools , careful and precise measurements must be made.

I once had a car where the brake booster failed due to fluid leaking from the master cylinder and the brakes would auto apply and not release on that car.

May 25, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


here you go...

The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1994-97 Models
See Figures 1 and 2
  1. Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
  2. Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the brake lines.

When removing the master cylinder from the power brake booster, it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines, therefore the brake system should not have to be bled.
  1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.


12_11_2011_8_48_59_pm.gif

Fig. Fig 1: Common power brake booster attachment


  1. From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer and brake switch from the brake pedal.
  2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
  3. From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
  4. Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.

To install:
  1. Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
  2. Install the bo oster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
  3. Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
  4. Connect the vacuum hose.
12_11_2011_8_52_07_pm.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the piston booster rod using the gauge tool

  1. For all vehicles cover ed in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
    1. Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
    2. Chec k the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
    3. If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
  2. Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details, please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this section.
  3. Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.

Dec 11, 2011 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

Spongy brake pedal apears to be leaking fluid from brake booster


check or adjust brake pedal, check brake booster or replace new one, check pedal return spring and bushing, check all wheel cylinder or replace, check brake shoe or brake pad, check brake fluid or replace,.

Apr 03, 2011 | 1999 Pontiac Sunfire

3 Answers

99 ford explorer brake pedal goes to floor. Booster or master cyl. ?


Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.

If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....

Mar 03, 2011 | 1999 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

My 94 c1500 has very spongy brakes.I have replaced brake booster,master cylinder,porportion valve and both rear wheel cylinders.brake pedal will get firm when applied too bleed brakes but not much fluid...


You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking


it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Aug 16, 2009 | 2006 Fiat 124

3 Answers

Brakes


bad power booster

Jul 13, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Replaced master cylinder bled as per specs but have dead pedal intermitantly. does this have to do with the abs system needing bled, if so how is that done.


Try changing the brake booster. The abs has nothin to do with the brake pedel. All the abs does is electronically adjust pressure applied to each wheel to keep the wheels from lockin up and sliding. You've either got a bad master cylinder or your brake booster is bad

Apr 30, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord

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