Question about 1993 Buick LeSabre

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Brake problems After replacing line to rear left, brakes wouldn't stay pumped up after bleeding. Replaced master cylinder, bled and still won't stay pumped up. Emergency brakes works but regular brakes won't lock up rear wheels. Pedal pumps up until you start car. Do we need to bleed ABS unit too?

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    i replace the master cylinder on a 1992 buick road master but I can not get the rear brakes to work

  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    2005 Mazda 6 Replaced master cyl, and ABS pump...no pressure on front driver & rear passenger lines

  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    After replacing a burst brake hose on my 2003 Ford Escape and bleeding the brakes the car still has no brakes.

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Still got air bleed more

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?


    Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
    The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

    Sep 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    I have changed the rear rotors and brake pads, bled the brakes after putting itall back together. Seemed to have brakes but then shortly thereafter they are like a sponge. Last time I tried bleeding them...


    Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
    Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike

    Jun 20, 2011 | 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

    1 Answer

    1999 Ford E350 van problem: brake pedal is soft; have replaced master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders, rear brake shoes and drums, front calipers, rotors and discs; have bled master cylinder before...


    Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.

    Feb 23, 2011 | 2007 Ford E-350 Super Duty Length XLT

    3 Answers

    I just replaced my master cylinder on my 1994 ford thunderbird LX with a 4.6L V8. But my brake pedal is still going down to the floor board. What could be the cause of that?


    you've bled the lines from back to front, and bled the master cylinder/ It sounds like air in the lines, so you should be able to get streams of fluid with no air at all bleeder screws-start from the furthest away from the master cylinder, to the closest, then do the master cylinder. If that doesn't work, you must have a broken line or a leaking caliper or wheel cylinder.

    Jan 04, 2011 | Ford Thunderbird Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Rusted rear left brake line replaced, fluid drained from master cylinder. Left the line open while I picked up the new line. Bled all four brakes, but the peddle goes to the floor (slowly) with medium...


    Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.

    Dec 15, 2010 | 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

    1 Answer

    Brakes on Chevrolet Optra soft and brakelights will not stay off - have had master cylinder replaced - problem getting worse. Have had lines bled.


    Did you bleed air on ur BRAKE MASTER? Brake lights stays, must've the BRAKE switch on your pedal area is STUCK UP! Either its been damage when ur pumping ur brake during bleeding! Check that! Tahh!

    Nov 08, 2010 | Chevrolet Aveo Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


    You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

    The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

    This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

    Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
    1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
    2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

    You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

    Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

    Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

    good luck

    Feb 21, 2010 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    SOFT BRAKE PEDAL ON MY DAEWOO


    MAKE SURE THE ARE NO OTHER LEAKS.IF U DID NOT BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER BEFORE U PUT IT ON U PROBLEBLY HAVE AIR IN THE SYSTEM.BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER AT THE LINES THAT COME OFF OF IT.THEN U NEED TO BLEED THE REAT OF THE BRAKES IN THIS ORDER.RIGHT REAR,LEFT FRONT,LEFT REAR.RIGHT FRONT.WHEN BLEEDING THE BRAKES WAIT 15 SECONDS BETWEEN PUMPS OF THE BRAKE PEDAL.IF U GO TO FAST U CAN DAMAGE THE MASTER CYLINDER.GOOD LUCK

    May 01, 2009 | Daewoo Leganza Cars & Trucks

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