Question about 1992 BMW 5 Series

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My x5 2002 when engine is turned og the heater can be still herd and it drains the battery

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  • sharingis Nov 27, 2008

    its an a/c switch under dash board that has gone bad. about $100.00 for the switch. i had the same problem.

  • Anonymous Jan 20, 2009

    I have a 2002 bmw x5 and I had to pull the blower fuse out for the heater to shut off or the battery would go dead. It also doesn't "heat" correctly. Also,when I turn up the thermostat it doesn't blow the correct speed. What is the problem and about how much to fix the problem?

  • gooduser Jan 31, 2009

    I have the same problem (the heater doesn't shut off and the battery goes dead). Should I change the a/c switch or heater resistor ??? Thx

  • larrain23 Feb 01, 2009

    I have the same problem. My heater goes on and off by itself and every morning my battery is dead! So fustrated with my vehicle it seems to always have an electrical problem!

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What you are hearing is likely not the heater/blower motor Larrain .. it is the electric cooling fan running to bring engine temp down. This is normal and would not drain battery unless fan is drawing excessive current...(eg. bad bushing - brushes.

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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You will need to replace the heater resistor to cure this fault

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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1 Answer

What is causing the battery to drain?


Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
  • Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  • Battery charge
  • Generator pulley
  • Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
  • Battery junction box fuse:
    • 11 (20A)
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 30 (30A)
  • Circuitry
  • Charging system warning indicator
  • Cables
  1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
    • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
    • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
    • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
  1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off
  1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
    • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
    • Circuitry.
    • Voltage regulator.
    • Generator.
    • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
    Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

Aug 16, 2015 | 2001 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Heater not operating properly


there are a few things that could be wrong here so lets see if we can help you out answers to these questions are important 1.was the car overheating? yes/no 2.does the fan operate when you turn on the heater from low/high? yes/no 3.do you smell antifreeze our is there a leak that can be seen on the engine/on the ground/inside the passenger area ? yes/no 4.did you check the fuses for all components related to the heater A. Automatic temperature control/fan motor B. Does this only happen when you are accelerating? ex. all fan/heater force disappears and comes back when you let up on the gas peddle/or the engine RPM stabilizes Al Diggs maybe right here this is possible, but we all need a little more specifics on when this is happening, so a better description of what exactly is happening will help us help you and stop you from spending more $$$ without proper results so PLEASE CHECK ALL ITEMS LISTED HERE A. are you losing coolant B. do you hear a hissing noise in the passenger or engine compartment C. Are all fuses good inside passenger fuse box/ engine power distribution box Please post back with more specifics/answers and we will get to the cause of your problem here stephen

Feb 01, 2015 | 2000 Lincoln LS

1 Answer

Engine knocking i reved up the motor a loud pop sound came from under the hood now the motor will only turn a little bit even by hand before locking up tight. any ideas?


From your descripion you may have spun a rod bearing. I haven't really seen any timing chains break persay. You usually hear a rattling sound coming from the front of the motor but you can still rev it up.
It sounds to me like you might want to clean out a pan large enough to drain the engine oil in. Drain the oil and look for small metalic flakes. If you see any, it's time to call some salvage yards and shop for a low milage motor(less than 100,000 miles) If you are lucky, you might stumble upon one with 50,000 miles or so. It's probably the motor though. If the chain broke, the upper end of the engine is going to be scrap metal anyway because the valves would have hit the pistons and bent..It would still be cheaper to replace the motor with a used one. Good luck

Mar 12, 2014 | 1994 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

How to enter the engine start code for opel omega 2003?


I have herd of this happening. it is the fuse in the ecu blown. it is a 3.0 model you have as only herd of this happening on this model. you need to take the battery off. and take the ecu out of the engine bay and open it up and change the fuse in the ecu. its soldered down on the board. happens when you try to start the engine with a flat battery. and then dont do the proper battery removal. i. e ignition to number 2 ( battery light on dash) then off to 0 then you have 30 seconds to remove the negative off the battery. better to undo the battery terminal first then do this but with out loosening it to much that it comes off, this is the proper way to remove the battery and not cause faults.

Dec 01, 2013 | Opel Olympia Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HOW TO CHANGE HEATER CORE IN 2000 BUICK CENTURU


Instructions
  1. Removing the Heater Core
    • Lift the hood and prop it open. Makes sure the engine is cold. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench or box wrench. Avoid using open-end wrenches on the battery terminals, as they tend to strip the bolt heads.
    • 2Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open the radiator cap. Open the radiator drain on the bottom of the radiator and the two coolant drains near the oil pan. You can reuse the coolant unless it appears cloudy and contaminated. Close all three drain openings once all the coolant has drained from the system.
    • 3
    • Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses of the heater core inside the engine compartment using a socket wrench. Be prepared to catch or wipe up any coolant that drips from these hoses. Drain the coolant from inside the heater core.
    • 4Unscrew and remove the lower instrument panel sound insulator from below the dashboard on the passenger side. Use a socket or screwdriver to loosen and remove the screws on the heater flooricon1.png outlet. Remove the clips and take out the duct.
    • 5Loosen and remove the screws holding the heater core cover in place. Remove the cover.
    • 6Remove the retaining bolts holding the heater core in place. Remove the heater core.
    Installing the Heater Core
    • 7Position the replacement heater core and secure the retaining bolts. Put the cover back on the heater core and reattach the screws and clips.
    • 8Reinstall the floor outlet duct with its screws and clips, followed by the lower instrument panel sound insulator.
    • 9Reconnect the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core In the engine compartment.
    Refilling the Cooling System
    • 10Tighten all of the drains. Fill the radiator up to the base of the radiator neck with antifreeze, reusing the old coolant if it's cleanicon1.png. Fill the coolant overflow tank up to the "FILL" mark.
    • 11Reconnect the negative cable on the battery and start the engine, making sure you leave the radiator cap off. With the engine idling, look into the radiator and notice that the coolant level has dropped. Add coolant until the level is back up to the base of the radiator neck. Add coolant to the "FILL" mark on the overflow tank. Put the radiator cap on, making sure the arrow on it points to the overflow tank.
    • 12Squeeze the large return hose leading to the top of the radiator with the engine still running. The hose should begin to feel hot, indicating that the thermostat has opened and is functioning properly.
    • 13Check for leaks in the cooling system.

Oct 02, 2012 | 2000 Buick Century

1 Answer

What could be causing my battery to drain dead? I have a new battery. I have checked the post and connections and nothing is running when the engine is off. I was able to start the car yesterday after a...


YES it is , do NOT junk it. There is no doubt in my mind that there is something draining the battery while the engine is shut off. It could be something simple like a light inside the trunk.
I once had a similar problem , turned out the big amplifier for my stereo was staying on 24/7

Jan 31, 2011 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How do I best replace a heater core in a corsica 1995


You will have to drain all engine coolant.Disconnect your battery and your two heater core hoses that are on the fire wall in the engine compartment.Now inside the car start removing your dash.one dash is removed you will have to open you heater box to gain access to the heater core once you have gain access remove and replace.Now start replacing heater boxes dash board and reconnect heater core hoses and reconnect battery.Now top up your engine cooling system with the engine antifreeze drained you should have a extra jug of coolant in case you spilled or just needed it to top up.Now start car make sure coolant is full when cooling fans come on put rad cap on you have completed the replacement of your heater core.

Dec 27, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet Corsica

1 Answer

Replace heater core


    A heater core transfers heat from a 1994 Ford Ranger's engine to the passenger compartment by running hot radiator coolant through a serpentine of tubing. Air blows past the hot fins of the heater core and into the truck cab.

    The hoses running to and from the heater core must be removed from the engine compartment, but the core itself is accessed from inside the passenger compartment, on the driver's side next to the center console.

    1. Turn off the engine, open the hood and remove the battery cable from the negative terminal. Make sure the engine is cool.

    2. Attach a 3/8-inch interior diameter hose to the drain outlet on the bottom rear corner of the radiator on the driver's side, and place the bottom end in a resealable plastic container. Turn the drain valve (located above the drain outlet) counterclockwise with a pair of pliers. Drain the engine coolant into the resealable container, then close the valve by turning it clockwise. Remove the hose from the outlet.

    3. Loosen the hose clamps on the radiator hoses where they attach to the heater core on the firewall. Remove the hoses.

    4. Unscrew the screws holding the underdash cover in place on the driver's side of the passenger compartment. Remove the underdash cover.

    5. Unscrew the four screws on the cylindrical heater core access cover and remove it. Remove the heater core by pulling it down and toward the rear of the vehicle. Replace the unit with a new heater core.

    6. Reinstall the heater core access cover and screw in the retaining screws. Replace the underdash cover and screw it into place.

    7. Replace the radiator hoses on the heater core in the engine compartment. Tighten the hose clamps. Add coolant until the level is between the minimum and maximum marks on the reservoir.

    8. Replace the battery cable and start the engine. Check the system for leaks.

Dec 05, 2010 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

3 Answers

When I turn the ignition, the starter doesnt turn at all. I changed the Ignition coil and it felt like it wanted to start but barely. I disconected one of the cables and put the screw driver in it but...


If the starter does not turn the engine over you will get no spark. Lets start over. You turn the key , does the engine turn over ? Does it turn over and not crank up and run?

Jul 24, 2009 | Ford Focus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

It turns over but some times takes time to start


get all the heater plugs checked
also check the fuel line from tank to pump if there is any small leak all the fuel goes back to tank after shuting off the engine or do the pumping manually with hand pump on the fuel filter before starting the engine if it is hard there is no leak in the fuel line

Dec 19, 2008 | BMW 325 Cars & Trucks

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