I developed a leak in one of the break lines going to the rear. I replaced both the primary and secondary brake lines (it was the primary that blew) reasoning that they both had the roughly the same lifespan. I replaced the sections beginning at the first "union block" from which the primary brake lines split off to the front WCs. I proceeded to bleed first the MC then all of the individual WCs. The pedal still went to the floor. I then bled the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV - the little square gizmo mounted above the right, rear WC). I did not touch anything on the LSVP but the bleeder valve. Presto! Now I had full resistance on the brake pedal. But now the brakes won't entirely release. Additional information: front pads were replaced not long ago. Rear shoes, never. Also the E brake handle goes full travel but does not activate brake. My gut tells me that the LSPV is involved somehow. Is there a connection here? Like, no brakes in the rear causing full extension of WC piston throwing the LSPV off balance or is the LSPV out of whack? Both? Neither?
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Re: Brake Problem - Brake Won't Quit on my 4 x 4
The LSPV is not the issue. It simply allows more fluid to go the the rear WCs whilst carrying a load. More load = more fluid to the rear brakes.
What I suspect, based upon the info you have provided so far, is that the rear brake pivot mechanisms, for the park brake, are seized. Pull on the rear park brake cables at each side, and see if the metal thing on the backing plate moves freely. If not, that metal thing is seized, and either needs taken apart & lubed, or, if it is severly seized, replaced. This is a VERY common problem. Rectify the park brake pivot concern, readjust the rear brakes, and see if this does not cure your problem. If you have any other question, please feel free to post back.
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Primary brake shoe is the front one of the pair and takes most of the braking load, while the secondary is the back one. They should never be reversed on a vehicle. On the rear, some vehicles have a set of shoes for the parking brake (e.g. Saab) - these may also be called secondary shoes.
If brakes are mushy then you still have air in the lines.Did you bleed all 4 wheels?have wife push brake pedal down once and hold then bleed hold down one and bleed and so on if this has a quick takeup master cylinder pumping 3 or 4 times then bleed wont work
If the brake master cylinder is full with approved DOT 3 brake fluid and the vacuum line that attaches to the brake booster is in place and not leaking or disconnected at either end, check for leaking fluid on all 4 tires, if you find no fluid at the tires indicating a caliper is leaking then the problem is the master cylinder being bad.
Hi, if you plug the port, the plunger will not be able to build pressure in the front lines as the back brake section of the master will hold the plunger back. The proportioning valve will also not let you do this, as it is trying to strike a balance between the front and rear brake pressure. I'm afraid you need to repair the rear brake lines. This is not hard work, but it does require a brake line tool for cutting and flaring the lines. You may be able to borrow the tool, or check to see how much a brake place would actually charge to replace the lines. The supplies are cheap, and the labor isn't really very long--maybe a couple hours.
From your discription, if it is square in shape and has 3 brake lines attached to it, it is the rear brake junction block. Double check and make sure it isn't a brake line that is attached to it. If the leak is above the rear axle on back of the wheel, that's the rear wheel brake cylinder.
How to Replace Brake Shoes (DIY Complexity: Moderate / DIY Time: 3.2 hours)
Parts: 1. Brake Shoe Set
Tools: 1. Combination Wrench Set 2. Floor Jack 3. Jack Stand Set 4. Mallet Hammer 5. Brake Spring Tool 6. Flat Head Screwdriver 7. Needle Nose Pliers 8. Tire Iron 9. Brake Resetting Gauge
Supplies: 1. Brake Cleaner
Steps: Step 1 * Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 * Break the lug nuts loose but do not remove. Lift up your vehicle using a floor jack. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 3 * Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
Step 4 * Remove the lug nuts. Remove the wheels. o Tip: Make sure the parking brake is released before removing the brake drum.
Step 5 * Remove the brake drum. If necessary, back off the star wheel adjuster. o Tip: Hit the brake drum with a rubber mallet to break it loose from a rusted hub.
Step 6 * Clean the brake assembly using a“wet wipe method”. This method uses a spray bottle with water and detergent. Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes. Inspect the brake shoes for wear or damage. o Tip: It is a good idea to leave one side assembled to use as a reference while you work on the other side.
Step 7 * Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe return springs from the anchor pin and brake shoes. o Tip: The primary spring is connected to the front (primary) brake shoe and the secondary spring is connected to the rear (secondary) brake shoe.
Step 8 * Remove the adjuster cable and spring assembly. Remove the star adjusting screw and thread the adjuster all the way in.
Step 9 * Remove the front brake shoe retainer. Remove the front brake shoe and parking brake link.
Step 10 * Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe. Remove the rear brake shoe retainer and remove the rear brake shoe. o Tip: Specialty brake tools are available to make brake shoe removal easier; but it is possible to remove the brake components with pliers. o Tip: While you have the drum brake assembly apart, pry the outer seal away from the wheel cylinder and check for leaking brake fluid. If any brake fluid is leaking, replace or rebuild the wheel cylinder
Step 11 * Apply white lithium grease to the backing plate contact points.
Step 12 * Install the new brake shoes in the reverse order of removal. Be careful to keep the new brake shoes clean.
Step 13 * Inspect the brake drum and resurface or replace if necessary. Install the brake drum and adjust the brake shoes. o Tip: There is a slot on the back of the backing plate usually blocked with a rubber grommet. To adjust the brakes, insert a screw driver into the slot and turn the star wheel adjuster. Spin the brake drum and stop adjusting when you feel a slight drag.
Step 14 * Install the wheels. Torque lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications.
Step 15 * Lower vehicle and test drive to verify repairs.
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