Question about Mitsubishi MT160, MT160D, MT180, MT180D, MT180H, MT180HD, MT210, MT210D, MT250, MT250D, MT300, MT300... (TRM1)
Was mowing with tractor and it started slowing down and then quit pulling. Returned pedal to neutral position, waited for a few seconds and tried again. Moved forward slightly and then quit pulling again. Managed to creep back to garage. Engine runs fine, just will not pull self along. Changed filter on hyd system with no effect. What is wrong? Likely cost of repair?
SOURCE: neutral light blinks
Mitsubishi's electronic transmission has a built-in diagnostic....which is indicated via the 'N' (Neutral) light on the instrument cluster.
When the diagnostic computer detects 2 or more of the same fault (which does not rectify itself), then the transmission goes into "LIMP MODE' - this is to protect the transmission from further damage, but will allow you to drive in 3rd gear.
First, we need to ascertain what "sequence" the 'N' light is flashing:
If the N light flashes ONCE per second, then there is an abnormality with one of the transmission components, and will require accessing the computer for further trouble codes.
If the N light flashes TWICE per second, then the transmission fluid is overheating also - pull over, let engine idle in N for a few minutes to allow it to cool down.
Turning key off will only reset the computer momentarily, until and the transmission goes back into LIMP MODE again, so further diagnostic investigation will be required.
If you are technically inclined, i'm happy to explain how you can access the computer codes, without a code reader.
Let me know...
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Just check your air flow meter connections do a "wiggle" test on it (Means move the wires to it while its running) put a bit of revs on while you do it or you will not notice the differance when you find the unrelyable connection! you see the more air rushes through the air meter the more fuel it tells the ECU to supply to the engine! so every it comes out off circit the ECU thinks the engine is idleingso it just supplys that amout of fuel thats why it dies under load!
an injection system will idle with the air meter disconnected..it just wont rev up because the ECU is unaware to supply more fuel understand?
Good Man Good Luck, HOPE THAT HELPS YOU!
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
SOURCE: 1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max, 2.4
Hello brian..these are great little trucks, i have a 87 (hitachi carb) with over 300k on it---still going strong and gets good mileage. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem on yours--- You can test the fuel pressure and the pressure regulator with a manual gauge...autozone has loaner tools if you dont have a fuel pressure tester. You should have aprox 36 psi ---remove the vacuum line on the pressure regulator with the engine running, the pressure should come up about 5-10psi, if it dont the regulator is bad. (Make sure there is vacuum on that hose) Make sure the MAF sensor is clean, if dirty clean it with MAF sensor cleaner, don't use brake cleaner.
Check for vacuum leaks around the manifold and emissions hoses...a good way to do this is with carb cleaner...spray it on the areas you are checking, it engine rpm change, you found the leak.
Also check the coolant temperature sensor, if it is out of range it will send a false signal to the engine controller, the controller will not open the injector circuit to squirt enough fuel under a load.
I hope this helps & good luck with your mighty max.
Posted on Aug 27, 2011
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