Question about Mitsubishi MT160, MT160D, MT180, MT180D, MT180H, MT180HD, MT210, MT210D, MT250, MT250D, MT300, MT300... (TRM1)

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MT 180 HD, hydrostatic drive

Was mowing with tractor and it started slowing down and then quit pulling. Returned pedal to neutral position, waited for a few seconds and tried again. Moved forward slightly and then quit pulling again. Managed to creep back to garage. Engine runs fine, just will not pull self along. Changed filter on hyd system with no effect. What is wrong? Likely cost of repair?

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  • Anonymous May 21, 2009

    rover 22 did you repair yours what was the cause i have the same/similiar problem



    terry in canada

    tyockell@cogeco.cA

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6 Suggested Answers

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: Lack of power

Start with IAC motor, TPS sensor, possible clogged catalytic converter.

Posted on May 30, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 60691 Answers

SOURCE: No overdrive

this is a hard mechanical fault in the overdrive forward clutch, u must overhaul the trans to fix this.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

Wolfman304
  • 720 Answers

SOURCE: neutral light blinks

Hi,

Mitsubishi's electronic transmission has a built-in diagnostic....which is indicated via the 'N' (Neutral) light on the instrument cluster.

When the diagnostic computer detects 2 or more of the same fault (which does not rectify itself), then the transmission goes into "LIMP MODE' - this is to protect the transmission from further damage, but will allow you to drive in 3rd gear.

First, we need to ascertain what "sequence" the 'N' light is flashing:

If the N light flashes ONCE per second, then there is an abnormality with one of the transmission components, and will require accessing the computer for further trouble codes.

If the N light flashes TWICE per second, then the transmission fluid is overheating also - pull over, let engine idle in N for a few minutes to allow it to cool down.

Turning key off will only reset the computer momentarily, until and the transmission goes back into LIMP MODE again, so further diagnostic investigation will be required.

If you are technically inclined, i'm happy to explain how you can access the computer codes, without a code reader.

Let me know...

Cheers,

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 98 Montero Sport with low rpm engine stalls...

spark plug cable is lose or one spark plug is faulty.

Posted on Jan 24, 2010

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 montero sports Stall while driving,

Just check your air flow meter connections do a "wiggle" test on it (Means move the wires to it while its running) put a bit of revs on while you do it or you will not notice the differance when you find the unrelyable connection! you see the more air rushes through the air meter the more fuel it tells the ECU to supply to the engine! so every it comes out off circit the ECU thinks the engine is idleingso it just supplys that amout of fuel thats why it dies under load!

an injection system will idle with the air meter disconnected..it just wont rev up because the ECU is unaware to supply more fuel understand?
Good Man Good Luck, HOPE THAT HELPS YOU!

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max, 2.4

Hello brian..these are great little trucks, i have a 87 (hitachi carb) with over 300k on it---still going strong and gets good mileage. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem on yours--- You can test the fuel pressure and the pressure regulator with a manual gauge...autozone has loaner tools if you dont have a fuel pressure tester. You should have aprox 36 psi ---remove the vacuum line on the pressure regulator with the engine running, the pressure should come up about 5-10psi, if it dont the regulator is bad. (Make sure there is vacuum on that hose) Make sure the MAF sensor is clean, if dirty clean it with MAF sensor cleaner, don't use brake cleaner.

Check for vacuum leaks around the manifold and emissions hoses...a good way to do this is with carb cleaner...spray it on the areas you are checking, it engine rpm change, you found the leak.
Also check the coolant temperature sensor, if it is out of range it will send a false signal to the engine controller, the controller will not open the injector circuit to squirt enough fuel under a load.

I hope this helps & good luck with your mighty max.

Posted on Aug 27, 2011

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-------
I suggest you few helk links.Click the link below and follow its troubleshooting procedure:------------------Pushing on the gas pedal, but the car slows down? Gas pedal to the floor and the car slows down? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/pushing-on-gas-pedal-but-car-slows-down.html
-------------
Car dies when gas pedal is pressed? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-dies-when-gas-pedal-is-pressed.html
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Check the help links related to this problem.Click the link below to go through its troubleshooting procedure :-----Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html---------
Car won't start without hitting the gas pedal? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-wont-start-without-hitting-gas.html
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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/pushing-on-gas-pedal-but-car-slows-down.html

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http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

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This will help.

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-----------Car won't start without hitting the gas pedal? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-wont-start-without-hitting-gas.html
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--------------Pushing on the gas pedal, but the car slows down? Gas pedal to the floor and the car slows down? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/pushing-on-gas-pedal-but-car-slows-down.html
-------------Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html----------This will help.Thanks.

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The shift pattern is pretty much the same on all 5 speed cars. The top row is the odd numbers, 1-3-5
the bottom row is 2-4-Reverse. The center position is neutral

Here is the key: The shifter is slightly spring-loaded to the center position. If you hold in the clutch pedal and pull the shifter to neutral, and let go of it, it will automatically be lined up in the position, that if you pushed it forward , it would go to 3rd gear, and if you pulled it back, it would go into 4th gear.
This way, to start driving, you start out in neutral, grab the shifter lightly, and push it first to the left, then forward. This is first gear, where you start out. when you want to shift to second, push in the clutch, and keeping left pressure on the shifter, pull all the way back . Here is the easy part, 2nd to 3rd. When you are ready, push in the clutch, and just push the gear shift forward , till it hits neutral, and is spring loaded to the middle. Then you just push it straight forward to 3rd, then next shift, straight back to 4th.
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Practice a bunch in the driveway!

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Model T clutch adjustment


Check to see that when you pull the lever back, that the parking brakes aren't grabbing. Approximately straight up, and down with the lever, is the neutral position, then pulling it back slightly towards the seat will set the parking brake.

Also, push the low pedal in very slowly, until you feel when you hit the low speed cam. You'll feel it. There will suddenly be more resistance at this point. That's where neutral is. The pedal should move down about 1 and 1/2 inches. The manual states halfway, this may be incorrect.

Jack up the car, (Use chock blocks under the tires, and work on a hard, level flat surface), check that the parking brakes are not setting when the lever is in the neutral position.

And yes, your deduction is correct about when the clutch oil is cold. The clutch used is a 'Wet Clutch'.

1.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_T_Ford
2.http://www.modeltcentral.com/transmission_animation.html



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Another question does the 3rd or high mount brake lamp illuminate when pedal is depressed?

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