My chevy blazer have a trouble shooting with start up the engine; i replace
sparkplugs and they are calibrated, i check the distribuitor cap and rotor and they are ok, i make a text with a spark plug grounded to engine block
and you will see the sparks sendind the electric charge. the fuel pump is ok. this failre happens when i left my blazer without start the engine for one
or two days. when finally the engine turns on you will hear a back fire and
you cant add too much gasoline with the gas pedal because stars to flood
the engine. but after several minutes running in the road my blazer run like new. but today this piece of $#&ht is out of service. i want to know if the problem is caused by a map sensor? p.d. i replace the crankshaft position sensor and its new fresh out of the box. and always happens when i left
the engine one or two days without run
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Re: start on the engine
Either your inlet valves are not fully closing (treat fuel system with redex for a few weeks to remove any carbon build up and allow valves to fully close) or ignition timing is out and needs resetting with a strobe
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Make sure you have power to the fuel pump. On this model you should hear a quiet high pitched mosquito in your ear sound when you have all the lights on the dash panel just before you turnover the engine. If push comes to shove, take the fuel pump out, keep the power on it and run it through a bucket to see if you can at least pump water through it. Make sure you let it dry out all the way though before placing back in the tank.
You can check for spark by stick screwdriver in disconnected spark plug wire and hold close to ground metal, such as valve cover and see if you get a spark. Be careful, these voltages are very high. If you don't have a spark then trouble shooting is narrowed down.
There's something you can do to check if the oil pump is still working screw off the oil filter and start it only for a few seconds if oil shoots out the pump is working if it doesn't the pump could be clogged or it lose prime if it's working check the wire going to the oil pressure switch may be broken.
You may have misunderstood the part he spoke of are you sure he meant the ECM or did he mean the ignition control module? Bring the car to an Auto Zone and have them check for trouble codes, they check them for free and you can google OBD II trouble code then your year make and model and the code.
You really want to troubleshoot your AC. Here are some items to follow:
1- Make sure your Compressor clutch work first. You can jump the wire to test it when the engine is off.
When you know the clutch work then you can look for the other things not makeing it activated.
2- It it doesn't work then you know the problem right there.
3- If it works then check the Low and high pressure according to compressor spec.
3- Check your engine temperature sensor. Don't think that your temp reading gauge is coorect then your engine temperature for your AC is working.
4- Check your compressor sensor speed. It has to be in sych with your crankshaft sensor before it allows the clutch engaged to prevent burning your compressor when it is locked up is in freezing mode ( ex.in case some clever people jumping wire to control the clutch bypassing all other rerquirement).
5- If you think these items need to be addressed by professional better then do-it yourself then I have no objection. Good luck on trying.
1) Is the service engine soon light ever on when engine is running?
2) Per your description I would look at the ECT sending unit. It sends coolant temperature information the the Engine Control Module for proper fuel delivery for cold engine start. It may have lost its calibration.
Let me know.