WAS CHANGING MY SUBS AND AMP WHEN I TOUCHED SOMETHING CAUSING A SPARK, MY ABS, BRAKE AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE ON KNOW AND MY RADIO DOES NOT WORK. I KNOW WOW. I AM THINKING THAT I NEED TO GET MY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM RESET COULD THIS BE THE CASE?
CHECK THE MAIN FUSE LINK NEAR BATTERY AND WORK YOUR WAY BACK. TOUCHING THE AMPS POWER CABLE TO ANY GROUND SENDS A 12 VOLT SPIKE THROUGH THE ENTIRE CAR. HARD TO SAY WHICH SYSTEMS COULD OF HAD A REACTION FROM THE SURGE OF POWER. ALWAYS PUT A FUSE WITHIN 1 FOOT OF BATTERY POSITIVE SIDE.
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What you are being told is perform maintainence B and perform sub items 1, 2 and 5
MAINTAINENCE A CHECKLIST:
Replace engine oil
MAINTAINENCE B CHECKLIST: Replace engine oil and filter Inspect front & rear brakes Inspect parking brake & adjustment Inspect Tie rod ends, steering box & boots Inspect suspension components Inspect Driveshaft boots Inspect brake hoses and lines including ABS Inspect All fluid levels and conditions of fluid Inspect Exhaust system Inspect Fuel lines & connections
SUB ITEMS CHECK LIST
Replace air cleaner element (Every 15,000 miles in dusty conditions)
Replace dust & pollen filter (Urban areas with high concentrations of soot, replace every 15,00 miles)
Inspect Drive belt
Replace Transmission Fluid
Replace Spark plugs
Replace Timing Belt
Inspect Water Pump (V6 Engines only) - If regular extreme conditions over 110 degrees f or under -20 degrees F, replace every 60,000 miles
Inspect Valve Clearance
This can be caused by a defective anti lock brake system ABS for short, this year has active ABS, this means the system can apply hydraulic pressure to the brakes with the driver never touching the brake pedal, if the valve that controls this pressure to the wheel leaks or sticks the brakes will lock up. To confirm this release pressure at the wheel by opening the brake caliper bleeder valve at the top of the brake caliper with the engine off. If the wheel spins free after the pressure is released you will need the ABS checked and quite possibly a new ABS hydraulic control unit. This type of failure is very rare but it does happen
although the ABS uses the brake system it functions independently and is comprised of mostly electrical components. Worn brake pads will not effect the abs systems function.
What you need to do is have the ABS system scanned for codes. This will give you a much clearer idea of the direction to go in order to solve the problem. Since the light comes on and stay on after you start the vehicle the ABS system has a failure in its self check. Common causes of this are bad wheel speed sensors but there are numerous other possibilities.
If you have an ohm meter you can check the resistance of all the wheel speed sensors. if one is not simular to the others than that would be a good place to start.
You do not steam clean any engines from
1985 on, or you will have problems with water
intruding electical connectors & more
Brake fluid won't be low
As the pads wear & caliper piston moves out,
fluid level goes down,not an issue
The ABS light you should already know is a Vehicle
System Malfunction & we have had those or similar
lights on the dash of all vehilces for 30 years
So nothing new at all. Check for codes,diagnose &
have the ABS Braking System repaired
HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED I HAVE SEEN IF ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE OUTPUT DROP TO 11.0 VOLTS THAT WILL CAUSE ABS AND CHECK LIGHT TO COME ON.DRIVE BELT COULD BE SLIPPING.BUT TAKE CAR TO AUTO ZONE OR ANY AUTO PARTS STORE THEY WILL SCAN CAR FREE TO SEE WHAT CAUSING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON.ANY TIME WARNING LIGHTS TURN ON SOMETHING WRONG WITH CAR.IF AUTO ZONE OR AUTO PARTS CANT SCAN FIND PROBLEM TAKE CAR TO DEALERSHIP LET THEM SCAN VECHICLE.BECAUSE WHEN ABS LIGHT COME ON ABS BRAKE SYSTEM NOT WORKING THE ABS UNIT IS PART OF THE MASTERCYLINDER WHICH IS THE PART MAIN PART BRAKING SYSTEM.
Traction control and anti-locks(ABS) lights come on there is sensors that are pluged in behind the rotors check and see if they are disconected or loose sometimes when you change your brake pads they might come loose and not making contact.
The only way that the ABS light could have anything to do with your stalling problem is if it is caused by a bad battery ground, Otherwise, I would begin diagnosis by collecting fault codes from both the ABS module and the Engine Control Module.
Locate and pull the ABS pump fuse located in the power distribution center under the hood and CHECK IT TO SEE IF THE FUSE IS BAD. Basically you are looking for a fuse box with large amperage fuses and some relays. Look along the fender well in the engine compartment relatively close to the battery. It is a 60 amp fuse in most instances and should be clearly labeled "ABS" in the large fuse box with other similarly oversize fuses used for other high power subsystems. All ABS systems are designed so that the solenoid valves in the ABS brake manifold are in safety "bypass" mode when powered down or when the ABS control module has been removed. You will have standard everyday power brakes no different than brakes built without the ABS system. The ABS system will perform a self check once you exceed 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should turn off. During this test, the controller runs the pump motor and briefly operates all of the valves. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive. EBCM is short for "Electronic Brake Control Module" It is the advanced computer than controls the electric motor pump and valves of your ABS system. Burnout of the motor is very rare however. A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, can cause the pump not to perform. Pump motors generally do not fail, but when they do, the culprit is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. In a worst-case scenario, your motor is beyond repair. It is bolted directly to the hydraulic assembly- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it and wiring harness. I hope this helps before you get your hands to dirty. In short check all the electrical connections first. Try running a hot wire to the pump motor first to see if it runs and if it does, then it's not the motor and could be a easier fix by changing the (EBCM).