Auto shut down from hitting a bump- no fuel pump or ignition - voltage gauge not working

put new relay in.
have you checked its not the pump
First, confirm that the pump is bad by listening carefully for the one second hum from the tank when you turn the key to the start position. If you didn't hear a thing..

Check for 12 volts at the dark green with black tracer wire at the wiring connection located underneath the van behind the driver's door. This wire supplies the voltage to your pump. If you have the rear heat this connector is generally found right around were the hoses are for the rear heater. There may be two connections at this location but the one you're looking for is the larger one with four wires.
Connect a voltage meter (or test light) to the dark green with black tracer wire and have someone turn ignition to the on position. Look for a flash of voltage then off. If you get the 12 volt reading that means that the computer ( PCM) has grounded the ASD (auto shut-down) relay circuit.
Now have someone crank the engine while you are still reading the voltage at the wiring connector. If everything is working normally you should get 10-11 volts while the engine is cranking. If you only get a very brief voltage reading or zero consider additional testing of the crankshaft or camshaft sensors (or fuses). If you got any sign of voltage doing the above test but never heard the fuel pump hum, with the electrical connections intact, then there is a strong probability that fuel pump is bad

How do you know there is no fuel to fuel rail ? Did you hook up a fuel pressure gauge ? Are the injectors firing ? Do you know how to test ignition system ? B+ voltage to the coils , test ground ? What size engine does yours have ? 2.0 - 2.4 or 2.5 l First place to start would be to check power , Check for B+ voltage at the dark green with orange stripe wire at the coil pack. , no voltage here , check the ASD relay . The ASD relay suppies B+ voltage to the coils , PCM etc... The fuel pump would work but not the injectors . ASD relay is located in the under hood fuse box , should have another one you could swop with it just to test it.

There should be a relay for the fuel pump under the hood, you may have burned that out when you hit the bump. If it is burned out then you have to look at why it did it. Hitting a bump shouldn't have caused it to happen unless you might have broken a ground when hitting the bump.

Did you check proper voltage and ground at fuel pump connector before replacing anything? Check with engine cranking. The gray wire is fuel pump voltage. The black wire is ground.

Did you check the proper fuse for voltage. Use a test light to check voltage.

Did you check for applicable trouble codes? Your obd1, you should be able to check some codes, yourself, if there are any?

Are you getting the ignition activated voltage to the relay? If you are, and you can jump across the relay to turn on the pump, I would say your relay is defective. If you know the relay pins for the ignition input and ground, you should be able to test it outside its plug in socket. You should hear it click when +12V and ground are applied to the proper pins/connectors for the ignition voltage. An ohm meter could be put across the supply +12V and fuel pump pins/connectors to really check the operation. If you think your relay is good. I would start checking for a bad +12V connection for your ignition supply, as well as the +12V that is switched through the relay. And the grounds to all. Use some contact cleaner on relay pins and socket. Ignition switch contacts can cause issues too. If it stays broke at least it should be easier to find than something that is intermittent. Based on what you stated, most of your troubleshooting should be at the relay socket (knowing which connectors do what) to isolate the issue to the relay, your ignition voltage, or your fuel pump voltage. After that it is knowing which step to take next.

Cycle the ignition switch --listen at fuel tank for pump

Check Fuel Pressure at motor with a gauge

Check Fuel Pump Fuse

Check Fuel Pump Relay-test it or switch it will same type

Check with amp clamp or scope- anywhere in the circuit
you can get to

Check with voltmeter for voltage drops on power side
& loss of ground on body side

Power the pump from the relay

And several other ways to go about fuel system issues

Back in the 80's I had a ford maverick with similar problems. The relays were on the wheel well. It was by luck I bumped the relay and it was very hot. Next time it shuts down check the temp on the relays. If one is real hot that may be you problem. My neighbor had a similar problem with a blazer she thought it was the fuel pump. Before I changed the fuel pump for her I swapped the A/C relay with the fuel pump relay(they were the same relay) . She live there about 6 months before moving and to my knowledge she never had the problem. I agree with you I think it is something to do with electrical and overheating is a sign of a problem.

I'd want to check voltage and ground for fuel pump relay. The load side of relay is the line with arrowhead, when relay is energized that line with arrowhead moves to other terminal and sends voltage to fuel pump on gray wire. The control side of relay is that coil symbol, it has to have voltage and ground, the voltage comes from pcm, the ground is a chassis ground. The voltage for load side of relay is fuse protected, fp/inj fuse.

It's under the hood usually on the driver side fender well. It's commonly known as an ASD Relay. Check the electrical part of the ignition switch. The "on" position of the ignition switch may not be working either.