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Buy a chiltons manual that's specific the the cyl heads your trying to remove. I'm guessing your talking about heads on a car ? By not including a make, model, year , engine size , diesel or gas, overhead cam, naturally aspirated, turbo, fuel injected, carbureted there is no way to answer the question you are asking. Your biggest concern should be on how to reinstall them. Reinstalling heads are far more complex than removing them. All heads are different in the pattern in which they are tightened down ( to prevent warping ) . A specific amount of torque must be applied to each bolt. Some bolts require thread sealant because they pass through the water/coolant passages in the engine. Failure to do that will result in water leaking into you combustion chamber thus ruining your engine as well as your new head. Also the thickness of the head gasket must be correct because to thin or to thick of a gasket will change your engines compression ratio . The gasket thickness can also change your cc's in the combustion chamber. A gasket that's to thin can also allow the exhaust or intake valve to hit the top of the piston on the compression stroke. If your dealing with an overhead cam or dual overhead cam engine then the proper setting of the camshafts when reinstalling the head or heads is crucial . The above only pertained to gas engines. If you have a Diesel engine then things change dramatically . The pressures in the cylinder head combustion chamber area on a Diesel engine is unbelievable . One small mistake or oversight on reinstalling a head on a Diesel engine can be catastrophic .
you really need to have your cylinder head opened and checked. Your mechanic is right. The cylinder head might have warped due to overheating or might have a hairline crack were water can seep through. You will be lucky if the head gasket is the only problem.
Alright there your on the money there. A4 audi's and The 2liter golfs do haed gaskets at around 145-150,000 miles. the oil's foamy kinda yellowie cream. Tip for ya When you do the head gasket cahnge the rad and water pump at the same time. Mine didthe same it's costly but worth it for piece of mind, Plus is the only time you get to the water pump apart from changing the timing belt.
Before getting too upset about this, try changing the temperature sender. Can't tell you where it is but it is usually on or near the thermostat housing but some engines have it on the intake manifold or rear of cyl head.
This is definitely a head gasket issue. I would get a valve grind kit instead of just trying to torque it down more as it may not be a problem of the bolts being at different torques. The values will need to be looked up from a bently manual, I do not have these torque specs