I have a 91 MR2 NA, had the motor totally rebuilt and have about 9000 miles on it. I am having problems with the throttle body. I have already replaced it once, and now it's acting funny again. I start the car and start to drive it and the motor will continually surge when I am stopped. We have tried adjusting it, but it hasn't fixed the problem.
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Change the spark plugs
Change any failed coils or all of them
Change the Front Oxygen Sensors at 100,000 miles
Clean MAF Sensor
Clean throttle body --- CRC- throttle body cleaner-instructions
on back of can
In a very very very rare case the TACM Motor may fail
on the throttle body & you have one of the also rare vehicles
that you can actually buy a new motor for, without getting a
$600 throttle body
Those motors Dorman has & Amazon I believe for $75.00
NO reason at all that YOU can not do ALL that work yourself
it entails to the new throttle body part number which eliminates the throttle body drain hose port is not on the replacement throttle body. prevents the failure of the throttlebody after 100k miles. because of corrosion that gets into the throttlebody motor.
Not sure how long ago you had the top half of the engine rebuilt and not sure if this is a new problem and the vehicle ran fine after the top end was done (thinking it was fine then). I have found a number of times that the throttle plate gets carbon deposits on it to where it doesn't close in the proper spot. This throttle body happens to have a screen in it so many people don't physically clean the deposits off and just spray cleaner in there to clean it. Below is a picture of that screen in the throttle body and I marked with a red arrow a snap ring that needs to be removed and that screen comes right out. Spray that throttle plate real well with throttle body cleaner and even manually open it so you get both sides. I even use a soft tooth brush and a rag with throttle body cleaner. Get the trottle plate and the inside of the throttle body including the little ledges that kind of stop the trottle body (you will feel a "lip" in there). After you get it all back together, disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes and then start the car. It's gonna be a hard start at first and rev it a few times to blow the cleaner out and then just let it idle for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then maybe drive it for a few miles. Disconnecting the battery cleared how your vehicles computer (PCM) where it thought its idle was set and now is going to teach itself the best idle position. It still going to take about 25 miles and some driving time to totally learn but I think this should help clear it up. Another thing but you will need the proper scanner or somebody who can do it for you and it is called a crankshaft position system variation learn procedure. Hope this helps...
What the dealer told you & what they do, is replace
the entire throttle body for no reason, other than they
can't diagnose their own products & they make money
There are no computers used to diagnose or work on any
A professional scan tool only sees what the PCM (vehicle
computer) sees & that is where all the problems start
A (TACM) throttle actuator control motor ,is part of the
throttle body & is not replaceable & the whole assy is over
$600.00 plus their unnecessary abuse of labor
All you need is spark plugs that do not have over 60,000
miles on them.
Spray the MAF Sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner & the main
problem you have is solved with spraying the sticking throttle
plate with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner, so it works & you do
not loose throttle position or % & get TACM Codes or
get wacked for a Grand by a dealer, which you should never
be at after the warrantee runs out
Also replace the (2) front O2 Sensors at 100,000 miles
Take throttle body off, clean Throttle Body with Carburator cleaner. I had same problem and its the ethynol in fuel that creates a build up in the throttle body which creates this problem. I did what a friend of mine said to do (service manager at Dodge Dealership) it hasnt happened again.