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Re: 2004 F 450 turn signal fuse size
You probably have a short somewhere within the power line if the fuse keeps blowing put a green 30 in and see if that fixes it if not then you need to find out where the short is..it is almost impossible you will probably have to taker it to a dealer...hopefully the biger fuse will work..good luck
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Fuses blow because there is an overload on the system. If the fuse blows when you step on the brakes then there may be a short in the wiring from the brake light switch to the lights, abs module or turn signal switch. If the fuse blows when you turn the key on then there is likely a short in the wiring to the brake light switch. Basically you will need a wiring schematic to check the wires at the switch and at each of the loads. Also verify that the fuse is supposed to be a 10 amp fuse. Hope this helps
first thing i guess to understand what is going on here ,is a little back to basics on how turnsignals work , first item you have is power fuse then it's off to flasher module than it goes to the turnsignal switch on colum ,of course anywhere on it way to there the power could got to ground and cause the fuse to trip, now the power depending on Left or right selection , is directed to lights on both front and back of truck,thankfully rangers don't have em on the side) now any place in this pathway the wire could go to ground and blow the fuse, now to troubleshoot and narrow down the area that fault is located , (1) replace fuse with correct size and ck for proper fit in fusebox and start and operate truck for a few minutes DO not use turnsignals, ck fuse is it still good if so go to step 2 if not stop and ck wire conditions in steering colum and switch(2) start truck and try right hand turn signal only verify lights working ,Ok yes/no if not replace fuse and try left side same way, Ok yes /no if right or left side only blows fuses take ALL bulbS OUT of lights and try again , if fuse still blows then look for wire fault on that side of truck if fuse is still good then look carefull at light bulb sockets for rust and powered corrosion (ill bet an 87 has some ) you may need to replace bulb sockets , they do sell em in autoparts stores .
All of these functions are controlled by the totally integrated power module (TIPM) so the first thing to do is check 30A fuse 10. Next, check 10A fuse 30 in the power distribution center (PDC). Power passes through the steering control module and the right steering switch to the horn switch. Pressing the horn switch sends a signal through the right steering switch and the steering control module to the TIPM which applies 12 volts to the horns, causing them to blow. If all fuses check good, the problem is in the other circuitry.
If fuse 10 in the TIPM is good, operation of the turn signal switch should cause the turn signals to flash.
If fuse 10 in the TIPM is good, check 5A fuse 35 and 10A fuse 30 in the PDC. If all fuses are good, the wipers should work.
Lighting control module ? ?????? Hazard / flasher module ! Now ( there''s not even an electrical signal where the fuse plugs into the interior fuse panel.) What FUSE ??????
The STOP LP 25 A fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to both the STOP 15 A fuse and the CHMSL 10 A fuse in the I/P fuse block, and to the turn signal/hazard module. The turn signal/hazard module then supplies voltage to both of the trailer rear turn/stop lamp supply voltage circuits. The voltage from the CHMSL 10 A fuse is to the center high mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) and the trailer jumper harness. The voltage from the STOP 15 A fuse is to the stop lamps, throttle actuator control (TAC) module, and the cruise control.
The backup lamp request signal is sent from the powertrain control module (PCM) to the body control module (BCM) on the Class 2 message system. This signal is based on the park neutral position (PNP) switch signal. The BCM supplies voltage on the backup lamp supply voltage circuit to the backup lamps and to the automatic day/night mirror. Voltage for the courtesy lamp supply voltage circuit and backup lamp supply voltage circuit is from the TBC B fuse in the instrument panel fuse block directly through the BCM to these circuits. A short to ground on either of these circuits will open the fuse. The backup lamps are grounded at G401.
For trailer wiring, a separate backup lamp circuit is connected through the underhood fuse block from the TRLR B/U 10 A fuse to the trailer wiring harness.
Turn Signal/Hazard Lamps
The IGN E 10 A fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly. The FLASH 25 A fuse in the I/P fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the turn signal/flasher module and ground is supplied at G200. When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, a voltage signal is completed from the turn signal switch to the turn sign/flasher module. When the hazard flasher switch is activated, a ground signal is completed from the turn signal/hazard switch to the turn sign/flasher module. The turn sign/flasher module then sends an on-off voltage signal through the LT TRLR, RT TRLR, LT TURN or RT TURN 10 A fuses in the I/P fuse block to the appropriate turn signal or to all 4 fuses for hazard operation. The instrument panel cluster (IPC) indicators receive voltage from the LT TURN and RT TURN fuses as well as the DDM/PDM for the mirror turn signals. The DDM/PDM has no function or control of the mirror turn signals other that a pass through connection for the circuits. The audio chime is also activated when the turn signals are on. When the hazard switch is pressed, all turn signal lamps will flash including both IPC turn indicators. The front turn signals are grounded at G100. The rear turn signals are grounded at G401. The Mirror turn signals are grounded by the DDM/PDM.
Do you know how to do automotive electrical circuit testing with a test light or volt meter ? How to read an use a wiring diagram to pin point testing points . ( connectors , fuse locations etc... ) How to use a power flow chart ? Here is a site for just such info .
Okay, we will need to pin point the short,first remove connector from wiper motor and install a fuse and see if it blows. if it does then we know its not the wiper motor.next, will fuse blow when key is turned on or do you have to turn on signals? if its when signals are working then check all bulbs, remove signal bulbs one at a time and make sure the correct bulb is in the socket and the bulb and socket are good, if all checks out then i would say you may have a bad switch,let me know what the outcome of these tests are i will help you fix problem or give you price. good day
When the fuse keeps blowing, there is only one reason why. That is because there is a short, not because other fuses are missing. For example if the fuse is rated at 10amps, and the wire after the fuse is drawing more than 10 amps it will blow. If for example you put a bulb in series with the wire than is only drawing 2amps the fuse will not blow that is because you have put a load that is less than what the fuse is rated for. One way to trace a short is to start where the fuse is at. Find which is the wire connected to that fuse. one side of the fuse is connected to the battery and the other side goes to whatever device it supply, and there maybe several of them. Note what else do not work beside the turn signal, Most short occur where there is an electronic device. Since your car is an older model, it is unlikely to an electronic device, but a wiring may have been worked on and somehow a hot wire is touching the body of the car. If the fuse blows only when the key is in the on position, then logically you would look at the back where the rear lighting may have been worked on, thats because turn signal are always off when the key is off. If it blows even when the key is off then you know there is something else beside the turn signal that the fuse is connected to that is on even when the key is off such as tail lights because you can turn on the tail light with the ignition off. You get what I mean?
Check the front and rear (although probably the rear) turn signal bulb socket for corrosion and/or water intrusion. If you find corrosion attempt to clean (but you will probably have to replace the socket and bulb). For water intrusion you will probably have to replace the break lamp assembly.
try checking all of your fuses and see which ones are blown. you have two sets of fuses and they are under the hood of the vehicle and under the dash on the driverside or in the glove box. if the don't work after changing the fuses then your wiring for the turn signals and brake lights need to be cheked from the fuse boxes to the swith for the trurn signal and to your brake lights
you might need a Turn Signal Column Switch, I have a 1993 Nissan Pickup and my fuse blew all the time. I dexed that problem i have some wires in the back of the truck that was rubbing on the frame. Now my running lights are not working and when i turn on my head light one will come on so i will have to turn on and off about 10 times then both of them will come on, so my turn signal switch is bad.