Question about 2002 Jaguar S-Type

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Mouse chewed on right side center coil replaced coil and connector, but still wontfire on right bank

Mouse chewed on the wires on the middle coil of the right side. The green wire shows that I have power, but the entire bank wont fire. I changed the middle coil and wire, but still have no spark to the right side bank.

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  • George Wagonblast
    George Wagonblast Oct 31, 2008

    You indicated that the on/off function of the coil is missing. Do you have an idea were the trigger control module is located. This would give me a ref. point to start my back track. Also is theie a sight were I can go to get a pig tail for the connector that was chewed by the mouse. Jag delar says that I have to buy the entire wiring harness, indicated that their are no single connector pig tails.

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Sounds like the trigger to activate the on/off function of the coil is missing.Having power at the coil is good but to activate the coils build up/collapse you have to have a signal to tell it when to.You will have to back probe the trigger wire to find out where its been chewed with a continuity tester with noise.The noise option,multi meters,is very good if your doing a bit of testing on your own and tells you that cicuit is intact with out having to read multi meter screen.Good luck with it

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

  • tony yeatman
    tony yeatman Nov 01, 2008

    Considering the price of a genuine harness i think maybe a soldering iron and a male/female connector might be an option as the original wires are color coded and i would have thought repairable.A plug/join is a join no matter how its done,a lot of vehicles use very similar plugs or joins that can be used to achieve the same result,is there a salvage yard that would be able to find you comparable parts?You should have one of two options for triggering your coils,Crank angle sensor or cam sensor,but i have reservations about them being at fault because those sensors dont usualy fire one bank and not the other,generaly they just fail.Not familiar with your vehicles set up but it is still possibly a crank/cam sensor if two are used,1 for each bank and if that is the case then cam sensor would make sense.Both cam/crank sensors are in engine bay,crank sensor is self explanatory and cam sensors are either to the front or rear of engine where the cam shaft/s are located.to track the offending sensor the multi meter comes into its own as you can test from plug /connector to plug/connector .Use the colors/gauge of the wire as a guide but not a given as colors do sometimes change from plug to plug unusual but is does sometimes happen.Let me know how you go and if i can provide any other assistance.

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Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.

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Then you can make a test light or purchase one. Plug the test light into the harness and start the car. This light should flicker, if not you didn't repair the wire properly. Doesn't sound like a fuse being that none of the injectors would work if a fuse blew.

It could also be that the PCM grounded out when the mouse chewed the wire and needs to be replaced.

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i think you might have a mouse living in your engine compartment
but i would look at a mouse dead inside your muffler since this is the warmest place the cuts off the cars way of breathing
when you come to a stop the dead mouse moves inside muffler and creates a blockage just enough to almost smother vehicle rats find muffler pipes warm area to live in
i would also change the oxygen sensor out too

since you mentioned rats i would gothrew whole vehicle in detail and look for chewed frayed wires windshield wiper motors things of this nature they may have chewed threw a relay and you wouldnt know once you have rats they can do lots of damage to a vehicle

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these are things i can think off the top of my head since im not there in person to see vehicle
i hope this had helped you in some remedy

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